Thought I would post a few pics of my post forward. I am sure there are better ways to do it, this is just the way I went about it. First you need to pull hood, side pannels, gauges, upper air box, seat, and the silencer and pipe. This is what it looks like under all the cosmetics.

Next pull the risers, and loosen the upper steering post block. You will need to pull the big V brace that runs down along the gas tank. After you get the upper block pulled out, you will go down to the lower block, below the belly pan. There is a plastic gaurd that the steering post runs through that you will need to work out. It is under the pipe. It comes out through the bottom, and takes a little wiggling to get it out. Disconnect the tie rods from the steering post. Pull the two bolts that hold the lower block in place and pull the steering post up through the engine compartment.

Now that I have the steering post out, I have decided to build my own straight post, rather than purchase one. I bought a piece of DOM pipe to weld in the center section of my stock steering post. You can use any kind of metal you want for the center. My problem is that the O.D. of my pipe is 1.15", and the I.D. of the stock steering post is 1". I had a friend turn the pipe on a lathe so it would fit inside the steering post. I have heard of people just butt welding the pipe to the steering post. I cut my post like this. I am sure there are easier ways to build a straight steering post, but this was my approach.

Because of the little bend in the stock pipe that is close to the top mounting block, I cut the post a little closer to the T at the top, and welded in a sleve out of the extra stock post I cut, for the top block to mount to the post. This is the pipe with the sleve and the top of the steering post, (T) before I welded it together. I slid the pipe far enough into the T so I could drill holes, and spot weld it as well as weld it at the joint.

I followed the Video on the c3 website on modifying the lower blocks. I modified both sides of the blocks, one side on top, and the other on the bottom. I also had to grind a little off the steering post bottom section,where the block mounts. It hit the mounting bracket where it mounts to the sled.

After a pre fit, I welded it up, painted and installed it into the sled. Next I had to pre fit the air box. It hits on the steering post.

I heated it with a heat gun, and used a 3" pipe to re shape it to clear the steering post.

Now it is just a matter of reinstalling everything I took apart. One other thing I did while I had the steering post out was modify the bottom where the tie rods connect. If you take 10mm out of it, it will resemble the steering on the 2010 and up xp's.

Can't wait to try it out.

Next pull the risers, and loosen the upper steering post block. You will need to pull the big V brace that runs down along the gas tank. After you get the upper block pulled out, you will go down to the lower block, below the belly pan. There is a plastic gaurd that the steering post runs through that you will need to work out. It is under the pipe. It comes out through the bottom, and takes a little wiggling to get it out. Disconnect the tie rods from the steering post. Pull the two bolts that hold the lower block in place and pull the steering post up through the engine compartment.

Now that I have the steering post out, I have decided to build my own straight post, rather than purchase one. I bought a piece of DOM pipe to weld in the center section of my stock steering post. You can use any kind of metal you want for the center. My problem is that the O.D. of my pipe is 1.15", and the I.D. of the stock steering post is 1". I had a friend turn the pipe on a lathe so it would fit inside the steering post. I have heard of people just butt welding the pipe to the steering post. I cut my post like this. I am sure there are easier ways to build a straight steering post, but this was my approach.

Because of the little bend in the stock pipe that is close to the top mounting block, I cut the post a little closer to the T at the top, and welded in a sleve out of the extra stock post I cut, for the top block to mount to the post. This is the pipe with the sleve and the top of the steering post, (T) before I welded it together. I slid the pipe far enough into the T so I could drill holes, and spot weld it as well as weld it at the joint.

I followed the Video on the c3 website on modifying the lower blocks. I modified both sides of the blocks, one side on top, and the other on the bottom. I also had to grind a little off the steering post bottom section,where the block mounts. It hit the mounting bracket where it mounts to the sled.

After a pre fit, I welded it up, painted and installed it into the sled. Next I had to pre fit the air box. It hits on the steering post.

I heated it with a heat gun, and used a 3" pipe to re shape it to clear the steering post.

Now it is just a matter of reinstalling everything I took apart. One other thing I did while I had the steering post out was modify the bottom where the tie rods connect. If you take 10mm out of it, it will resemble the steering on the 2010 and up xp's.

Can't wait to try it out.