TPS Question

[SU27]

Hi all!
Just tried to adjust TPS on 2012 RMK Pro 800. It has brand new 2013 800 engine with just installed "fix kit" on it.
Taking in count all posts describing TPS adjustment, I have disconnected throttle wire, loosened throttle stop screw, and made sure throttle body is fully closed. Then adjusted TPS to 0.7 volts - by loosening TPS screws and rotating it. Then, on MAG side, I have adjusted throttle stop screw to make TPS read 0.94 volts. I have tried it 3 times, but this adjustment gives me 2400 rpm on idle. So, I went other way - by throttle stop screw I have adjusted idle to 1700, and then adjusted TPS to 0.94 volts. Full throttle voltage gives me 4.28 V, so i am happy with this.
What can be wrong with this? Why original adjustment gives me 2400 rpm?

 

[rocket]

First, what are you using to measure voltage? Do you have confidence in the accuracy? Second, voltage settings always have a range - there isn't one "exact" setting that is ideal. My own take on setting voltages is this: The .7V at throttle plates closed sets a reference point for the ECU. The idle voltage reading is there as a "guideline". Acceptable idle may be 1700RPM +/- 200, idle voltage is .94V +/- .01. Anywhere in those ranges is "acceptable". Maybe you need to have idle voltage at .93V to get your idle back into RPM spec. Now, one more thing to think about: If idle is higher than "expected", there is also the possibility you have an air leak somewhere, especially since the motor has just had work done on it.

 

[SU27]

I am using Flike meter, and home-built TPS tester. I went through 7 voltage regulators until found the one gives me 5.0 V. Using fresh 9V battery, etc. So i am very positive that on hardware part I am ok.
To get tester connected, I disconnect lower ECU plug and use this plug to connect to TPS directly. Then TPS adjustment procedure found on this forum (increase your IQ thread)
Whole procedure worked on my IQ (and other IQs), so somehow it doesnt work on Pro-Ride.
My thougts - maybe this given ECU provides different to 5V voltage. As well, there is another regulating screw located between throttle plates - right behind oil pump adjustment screw. I have used it to fine adjust TPS voltage, and might diasjusted it from initial position too far. Do you know why this adjustmen screw is in there, and how to set initial position for it?

 

[mountainhorse]

When you are setting the baseline are you sure you are adjusting the the throttle stop screw on the end of the throttle bodies ... or... are you setting the the "sync" screw between the two throttle bores??


.

 

[TRS]

I am using Flike meter, and home-built TPS tester. I went through 7 voltage regulators until found the one gives me 5.0 V. Using fresh 9V battery, etc. So i am very positive that on hardware part I am ok.
To get tester connected, I disconnect lower ECU plug and use this plug to connect to TPS directly. Then TPS adjustment procedure found on this forum (increase your IQ thread)
Whole procedure worked on my IQ (and other IQs), so somehow it doesnt work on Pro-Ride.
My thougts - maybe this given ECU provides different to 5V voltage. As well, there is another regulating screw located between throttle plates - right behind oil pump adjustment screw. I have used it to fine adjust TPS voltage, and might diasjusted it from initial position too far. Do you know why this adjustmen screw is in there, and how to set initial position for it?

From reading your post above,your throttle bodies are now out of sync. The screw between the throttle bodies is "only" for syncing them. You will now need to take the throttle bodies off the sled and start the complete sync process. The latest protocol from Polaris is to replace the throttle bodies instead of syncing them. A Polaris engineer informed me that they are now sync'd using a flow bench. You can look in a 2007-2009 IQ shop manual and it will give you detail and guide you through how to do it using the TPS tester.
Just a note to all, get educated to the task at hand before you tackle it on your own. Field problems are hard enough to diagnose. Without this last tidbit of info it would be near impossible to diagnose.

 

[richracer1]

From reading your post above,your throttle bodies are now out of sync. The screw between the throttle bodies is "only" for syncing them. You will now need to take the throttle bodies off the sled and start the complete sync process. The latest protocol from Polaris is to replace the throttle bodies instead of syncing them. A Polaris engineer informed me that they are now sync'd using a flow bench. You can look in a 2007-2009 IQ shop manual and it will give you detail and guide you through how to do it using the TPS tester.
Just a note to all, get educated to the task at hand before you tackle it on your own. Field problems are hard enough to diagnose. Without this last tidbit of info it would be near impossible to diagnose.

I'll add that IMO, you need a shop manual or access to one if you're going to wrench on your own sled.

 

[mountainhorse]

From 2008 Manual

TPS Baseline Adjustment - CFI Models

NOTE: The TPS baseline and idle speed
adjustments must be performed whenever the TPS
is moved or replaced.

Remove the Throttle body assembly from engine.

Loosen the idle speed screw until the screw no longer
touches the tab and the throttle plates are completely closed.

Open and close the throttle plates 2 to 3 times to ensure
plates are completely closed.

Using the TPS test tool, verify the TPS is set to 0.70 +/- 0.01
Vdc.

To adjust the TPS base-line, slightly loosen the screws, then
slowly turn the TPS clockwise or counter-clockwise to
adjust the voltage.

Carefully tighten the screws to 31 In.Lbs. (3.5 Nm) when
the voltage is 0.70 +/- 0.01 Vdc.

Open and close the throttle plate 2 - 3 times and verify the
voltage is still within specification.



Throttle Plate Synchronization

The throttle plates are synchronized at the time of throttle body
manufacture. Adjustment should never be required unless it is
believed the plates are out of sync.
To adjust throttle plate synchronization, follow these steps:
1. Perform the TPS Baseline Adjustment. The TPS must be
set to specification.
2. Carefully back the synchronization screw out so it no
longer touches the tab, but do not remove the screw or the
spring.
3. Verify the TPS voltage is set to 0.70 +/- 0.01 Vdc. If it is
not, re-perform the baseline adjustment.

• A = Synchronization Screw
• B = Throttle Arm Tab
• C = Screw Mount
4. Slowly turn the synchronization screw inwards until the
instant the voltage on the multimeter changes. Back the
screw out so the voltage reads 0.70 +/- 0.01 Vdc.
NOTE: When turning the synchronization screw, do
not push the screwdriver with enough force to move
the throttle cable cam. Doing so will affect the TPS
voltage reading on the multimeter.

...

 

[SU27]

Yeah! That`s the problem! I de-synced throttle body plates! Now I just can sync them back. Thank you very much my friends!
P.S. I always get shop manual shortly after buying new type of sled. Moreover, I post it to Snowest right away

 

[Reg2view]

FWIW, that throttle arm tab also houses the control tab for the oil pump adjustment - I've always been suspicious of that tab getting twisted when tightening the lock nut on the oil adjuster (I could see how it could twist when loosening the first time, too), and messing with the sync and TPS setting. Don't be overly aggressive with that lock nut, set oiler before you set TPS.

And enjoy the manually oiler setting while you can - just a matter of a year or two, and it will be all electronic anyways. If you even subscribe to increased oil settings. Might take some time before a ecu controller will be able to crack the oil setting. Who knows.

 

[SU27]

Today I have removed throttle body, cleaned it, and and re-synced plates. Adjusted TPS taking all precautions, including shaman's dances with drum, and praying to voodoo gods. Adjusted oiler as well. 2300 RPM.

 

[TRS]

Today I have removed throttle body, cleaned it, and and re-synced plates. Adjusted TPS taking all precautions, including shaman's dances with drum, and praying to voodoo gods. Adjusted oiler as well. 2300 RPM.

.698 is the ultimate base setting. I have idle set at .932 on all my NA sleds.

 

[SU27]

.698 is the ultimate base setting. I have idle set at .932 on all my NA sleds.

When I had back off idle from 2300 to 1700, the TPS voltage is 0.89. I am very positive that I have synced throttle plates in most right way possible in my situation (including buying new shaman's drum, etc). I beleive the problem is somewhwere on electric side - improper voltage supply or something. Or sucking air from somewhere else (close to zero probability).
Today I will continue dealing with this exciting problem.

 

[SU27]

...

This procedure doesnt work somehow. I dunno is it my case only, or at all. MAG side throttle plate is sits on throttle cable shaft, and PTO side throttle plate sits on TPS shaft. There are 2 springs and screw linking throttle plate shafts. Having sync screw loose doesnt mean PTO side throtlle plate is fully closed, because one of the springs is still applying pressure, while the other one is loose. To have throttle plates synced, screw must be somewhere in the middle position (balancing pressure from both springs), and it blows described before procedure.
I ended up removing throttle body, and syncing plates without using TPS, just by light source.

 

[mountainhorse]

Pull the Throttle body off the sled

Remove the TPS

Adjust both throttle plates to full closed...your method with light works well.

Tripple check that they are closing at the same time... then...

Re install the TPS and adjust to baseline voltage of .71v

Then set the idle voltage at .94v

Re install on your sled.







.

 

[SU27]

Pull the Throttle body off the sled

Remove the TPS

Adjust both throttle plates to full closed...your method with light works well.

Tripple check that they are closing at the same time... then...

Re install the TPS and adjust to baseline voltage of .71v

Then set the idle voltage at .94v

Re install on your sled.







.

That`s exactly what I`ve done, including removing TPS. Thank you

 

[Allterrain]

I have a quick question on this. I had the tps on my 2013 pro rmk 800 set at my dealer this spring. Before having it set, it always idled at 1700-1800 when warmed up. Now whenever I stop after driving it, it will idle at 2400rpm for about 5-10 seconds and then will drop down to 1700-1800. He used DW and set both the baseline and the idle voltages. He seemed a little bit puzzled by this but said it should be fine. Any ideas on what might be causing the initial high idle?

 

[SU27]

I have a quick question on this. I had the tps on my 2013 pro rmk 800 set at my dealer this spring. Before having it set, it always idled at 1700-1800 when warmed up. Now whenever I stop after driving it, it will idle at 2400rpm for about 5-10 seconds and then will drop down to 1700-1800. He used DW and set both the baseline and the idle voltages. He seemed a little bit puzzled by this but said it should be fine. Any ideas on what might be causing the initial high idle?

Let`s use some logic. The cause is mechanical or electronic.
Mechanical - throttle system (cable, lever, plates, TPS) might catch something on the way back to idle, and release in 5-10 seconds. It explains intermittant timing - 5-10 seconds.
Electronic - ECU might be fooled by some sensor (air temp?) and initiates cold start procedure.
Using Occam's razor, i would say its mechanical.

 

[Reg2view]

Acting like a temporary lean condition, too. Not necessarily an air leak, but as stated could be a sensor reading, pipe temp, air density, do you have to engage the drive again to get it to idle high, or will just a throttle burb do it? Should be fine is a pathetic answer by the dealer.

 

[SU27]

Coming back to original thread:
I feel like traitor, coz ended up adjusting TPS in dealership

 

[Allterrain]

It definitely could be mechanical, but just odd that it showed up after the tps was set. One thing I do recall is when he was setting the tps it wouldn't always go back to the proper idle voltage after he worked the throttle. He'd have to give it an extra blip or let come back really slow for it to read exactly the same. So it could be as simple as something catching and holding the throttle open a tiny bit. Just was weird how consistly it did it.