stock pipe cover/insulation removal?
- Thread starter mustard73
- Start date
i was going to remove mine because the packing/insulation under the cover was putting out a fine silver dust that ended up in my clutches. I was told its to keep the heat in the pipe and if you remove it you will want to get the pipe coated or use header wrap to keep the heat in. I don't have $ to coat it and header wrap weighs just as much so i ended up using heat foil tape over the seams to keep that dust away.
R
RaggedEdgePerformance
Member
It does not save that much weight the spedwerx pipe is made from a thiner mat. than oem pipes that is why they weigh less same with slp thats why turbos use a stock pipe hope this helps
W
W A O
Well-known member
Thanks for the replies.
I'm not sure how much weight it would save but a Speedwerx single is supposed to be 5 lbs lighter for an example.
I'm on a bit of a kick removing everything and anything that isn't necessary. Just wanted some opinions before I got too carried away.
I bought a speedwerx pipe for my sled that has ceramic coating on it, and then added some ceramic insulation for high temp steam pipes and then the stock sheild. Did it help? I get 1000-1100 miles on a belt and the sled flat out runs, did it help? I think so, racers wrap their pipes for performance and I just watched thunderstruck 8 and guess who has their pipe wraped Brad Story on his turbo as well as one other guy, has to help. I think so you so worried about sheding pounds go to weight watchers its cheeper.
M
mezz250x
Active member
I bought a speedwerx pipe for my sled that has ceramic coating on it, and then added some ceramic insulation for high temp steam pipes and then the stock sheild. Did it help? I get 1000-1100 miles on a belt and the sled flat out runs, did it help? I think so, racers wrap their pipes for performance and I just watched thunderstruck 8 and guess who has their pipe wraped Brad Story on his turbo as well as one other guy, has to help. I think so you so worried about sheding pounds go to weight watchers its cheeper.
no offense but you shoulda proof read this before you posted it....
M
mustard73
Member
I bought a speedwerx pipe for my sled that has ceramic coating on it, and then added some ceramic insulation for high temp steam pipes and then the stock sheild. Did it help? I get 1000-1100 miles on a belt and the sled flat out runs, did it help? I think so, racers wrap their pipes for performance and I just watched thunderstruck 8 and guess who has their pipe wraped Brad Story on his turbo as well as one other guy, has to help. I think so you so worried about sheding pounds go to weight watchers its cheeper.
But I already switched to light beer...
pipe temp
the hotter your expansion chamber / pipe the higher rpm your max hp will be
so why not go cold pipe lower rpm max hp ? because to clutch a sled you need to know where max hp rpm is the most/ the most often, with bare pipes that elusive sweet spot can wonder all over the 7-8000 rpm range as cold pipes get hot, then get cold with 50mph 15 degree air zinging through the hood on the trail, then hotpipes while winding through the trees then cold pipe while you size up your line up the hill, then hot pipe again 1/2 way up your hill climb etc etc etc.
so you can make a hot pipe and keep it pretty hot and consistent with insulation, and keep it more consistent with thicker steel construction of your pipes with insulation.
the other side benefit of the insulation is sending more of the heat of your motor on down the hot exhuast pipe and evacuating the underhood area of heat that is detrimental to having a good cold air supply and cooler non deto motor.
so when you buy a thin skin aftermarket pipe and don't cover it, expect to chase clutching around some and find the sweet spot in the power band now and then. ceramic coating can help some, won't help much though when a cloud of cold fine 10 degree snow blows in the hood area onto that hot shiney pipe just when you want to stab the throttle for full power . big azz thin skin twin pipes on our old peaky hp sleds , you chase sweet spot clutching hourly. The new wider torque curve 800/1000 cc motors.......... most riders may not even notice that much variation in power delivery.......but the careful observant tuners will.
the hotter your expansion chamber / pipe the higher rpm your max hp will be
so why not go cold pipe lower rpm max hp ? because to clutch a sled you need to know where max hp rpm is the most/ the most often, with bare pipes that elusive sweet spot can wonder all over the 7-8000 rpm range as cold pipes get hot, then get cold with 50mph 15 degree air zinging through the hood on the trail, then hotpipes while winding through the trees then cold pipe while you size up your line up the hill, then hot pipe again 1/2 way up your hill climb etc etc etc.
so you can make a hot pipe and keep it pretty hot and consistent with insulation, and keep it more consistent with thicker steel construction of your pipes with insulation.
the other side benefit of the insulation is sending more of the heat of your motor on down the hot exhuast pipe and evacuating the underhood area of heat that is detrimental to having a good cold air supply and cooler non deto motor.
so when you buy a thin skin aftermarket pipe and don't cover it, expect to chase clutching around some and find the sweet spot in the power band now and then. ceramic coating can help some, won't help much though when a cloud of cold fine 10 degree snow blows in the hood area onto that hot shiney pipe just when you want to stab the throttle for full power . big azz thin skin twin pipes on our old peaky hp sleds , you chase sweet spot clutching hourly. The new wider torque curve 800/1000 cc motors.......... most riders may not even notice that much variation in power delivery.......but the careful observant tuners will.
Swain tech best coating by far. try it, not some shiney paint, real ceramic coating.
have 1m 900,, had pistons y-pipe,pipe and can coated never burned down even with nos. best stuff ever ,,just sent my m1000 pistons pipe,y-pipe and can in have them done the same worth every dime...
have 1m 900,, had pistons y-pipe,pipe and can coated never burned down even with nos. best stuff ever ,,just sent my m1000 pistons pipe,y-pipe and can in have them done the same worth every dime...
Hi Everyone,
I am resurrecting this thread. I took my whole exhaust off this summer and painted it because it was getting rusty, had to weld a whole shut in the header too I found while it was apart and did new gaskets. The insulation on the expansion chamber under the aluminum cover was all torn up and rusty so i threw it away but I haven't been able to find an easy replacement. Does anyone know where to get the stock stuff or close to the stock stuff? My sled is a 2016 Switchback 800 Pro-S. I have an older 2003 Indy XCSP 800 too that i did a couple years ago and reused the insulation i might go back and redo after but i didn't want to reuse it on such a new machine.
Hope Everyone is stoked for winter!
-Steve
I am resurrecting this thread. I took my whole exhaust off this summer and painted it because it was getting rusty, had to weld a whole shut in the header too I found while it was apart and did new gaskets. The insulation on the expansion chamber under the aluminum cover was all torn up and rusty so i threw it away but I haven't been able to find an easy replacement. Does anyone know where to get the stock stuff or close to the stock stuff? My sled is a 2016 Switchback 800 Pro-S. I have an older 2003 Indy XCSP 800 too that i did a couple years ago and reused the insulation i might go back and redo after but i didn't want to reuse it on such a new machine.
Hope Everyone is stoked for winter!
-Steve
I would try a layer of header wrap then put the aluminum shields over top of that.
