so who has run a new tss kit
- Thread starter Uncle Bob
- Start date
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rsaint
Active member
I would look at boostit before them.
Why?
And your reasoning for that statement is??? Have you run both? Pros/cons of each? I know that Neil and the Micku's both turn out great products, just wondering what your experience is...
Driving a turbo from the center of the pipe is not as good as from the stinger. Take a close look, the boost it kit is far cleaner and less one off looking.
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Einar74
Well-known member
I find the turbo location that the so-called insta-boost kits from TSS have very interesting.
I have been surprised that this configuration has not got more discussion on this forum.
But I talked to one very well know person the snowmobile business and he simply said this doesn't work. We did go into any longer discussion about it.
Over the years we have seen stuff that is suppose to the next great thing, but then it is all forgotten. Like the throttle body before turbo like "Push turbo" came out with couple years ago and now this "insta-boost" from TSS
But I would guess if you try to read between the lines there must be a reason the bigger turbo companies are not getting on that bandwagon.
It is something that work better on paper then in the real-world.
I have been surprised that this configuration has not got more discussion on this forum.
But I talked to one very well know person the snowmobile business and he simply said this doesn't work. We did go into any longer discussion about it.
Over the years we have seen stuff that is suppose to the next great thing, but then it is all forgotten. Like the throttle body before turbo like "Push turbo" came out with couple years ago and now this "insta-boost" from TSS
But I would guess if you try to read between the lines there must be a reason the bigger turbo companies are not getting on that bandwagon.
It is something that work better on paper then in the real-world.
Well they are actually getting vacuum at the turbo from mounting it at the center. I would have to say the pressure at the stinger is far more compressed than at the fattest spot in the pipe. Compressing both cylinders into the 2inch stinger has way more velocity and pressure. Also what happed to the pulse waves in the pipe with or even the sound waves now that the pipe has 3-5 times the normal pipe pressure. If you run a .86 housing on 3071 the pipe center pressure is double the manifold pressure, has anyone tested stinger psi? Its funny I was just asking someone about this.
Impulse has followed TSS and is doing it now..
Its a fad and some will follow and some wont.. Look at how boondockers, twisted and several others mounted the pipe to the turbos years ago... bolted solid..
Wait and see, something new and better is just around the corner
Impulse has followed TSS and is doing it now..
Its a fad and some will follow and some wont.. Look at how boondockers, twisted and several others mounted the pipe to the turbos years ago... bolted solid..
Wait and see, something new and better is just around the corner
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I have run an e-tec with the instaboost kit at 8psi@sealevel.
It is fast, and zero lag. I dont understand the comment about how it will not work. The one I rode, did indeed work.
About stinger size, there is a stinger with a given size between pipe and turbo. It is not like just a random sized hole.
Center of the pipe is the hottest? Right?
Turbos like hot exhaust gas, since its more volume, right?
Daltech
It is fast, and zero lag. I dont understand the comment about how it will not work. The one I rode, did indeed work.
About stinger size, there is a stinger with a given size between pipe and turbo. It is not like just a random sized hole.
Center of the pipe is the hottest? Right?
Turbos like hot exhaust gas, since its more volume, right?
Daltech
Most anyone's set ups at 8lbs and sea level I would hope wouldnt have much lag. What size turbo is it? I think even aerochargers work down there.
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The whole mid mount pipe thing is a bad IMO, here's why.
You need back pressure to spool the turbo , pressure is restriction , what's the restriction? the stinger is. The pressure builds at the stinger at goes back from there. You will see pressure at your stinger before the middle of the pipe.
Secondly by mounting in the middle of the pipe so much of the energy is just going right by. Mounting on the stinger the energy is harnessed better to drive the wheel.
Lastly every bend has a loss coefficient associated with it, a 90* entry on the center section of the pipe causes the energy to become turbulent , slow down , less efficient etc...
Even more so when your pipe is not pressured (bottom end) , the exhaust will venturi at the stinger and speed up, giving you better bottom end. Faster energy to drive the wheel
The exhaust going from divergent cone to center section is the slowest , slowest energy to drive your wheel.
You need back pressure to spool the turbo , pressure is restriction , what's the restriction? the stinger is. The pressure builds at the stinger at goes back from there. You will see pressure at your stinger before the middle of the pipe.
Secondly by mounting in the middle of the pipe so much of the energy is just going right by. Mounting on the stinger the energy is harnessed better to drive the wheel.
Lastly every bend has a loss coefficient associated with it, a 90* entry on the center section of the pipe causes the energy to become turbulent , slow down , less efficient etc...
Even more so when your pipe is not pressured (bottom end) , the exhaust will venturi at the stinger and speed up, giving you better bottom end. Faster energy to drive the wheel
The exhaust going from divergent cone to center section is the slowest , slowest energy to drive your wheel.
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Uncle Bob
Well-known member
good stuff guys keep it coming, there was a thread a while back but i can't find it and this is the reason why i ask. It was stated by some pretty experienced turbo guys that the best way to run is with an external wast gate off the fat part of the pipe but to drive the turbo off the stinger ut correct me if im wrong
Turbo off the stinger , wastegate on the tail cone is best.
I find it kinda strange, that despite that you obvious have not installed or ridden an instaboost kit, you still know why it does not work.
They are selling these kits.
People actually run these on their sleds, succesfully, still you can tell that it does not work.
Since you have not seen the kit first hand, I can tell you, there is a stinger. Even thou it does not looks like there is a stinger, there is.
No one said the stinger has to be in the end cone of the pipe.
2S pipes has had center and tail cone mounted stingers for a long time already. It is not that common, but it does not meen it dont work.
Where did I say "it does not work"? Im sure people are out there having flawless days on them.
"it works" is the industry standard when it comes to turbo kits. As long as it makes power most people don't care because "it works". There are the 1% of people out there that do care.
I've seen there stinger locations , well aware of it. But you need to understand how & why things happen like I tried to explain.
The stuff I am talking about is thermodynamic, fluid dynamics , how things are moving flowing etc...
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samsquatch47
Well-known member
I was happy with my TSS proclimb kit. I bragged to everyone about my kit. when it was new... Until I put some miles on it. Before you buy any kit look at a couple things I didn't that have now cost me THOUSANDS in repairs and many rides ruined to having to be towed out.
1. How is the turbo, oil tank and oil pump secured to the sled?... Haven't seen the new TSDS kits, but mine just "rested" on a bracket on the lower bulkhead. Only gravity and the pipe springs secured it. So over the rough trails to the alpine the turbo assembly would bounce and the pipe would pivot on the y-pipe donut as it is not solidly mounted. Essentially TSS used the pipe as a structural support. Which it was never designed for. I've gone through 4 donuts in 300 miles plus hours of chasing boost leaks cause I didn't think it was the y pipe donut again!...
Then as well with the turbo bouncing around it makes the charge tube and air box jump around as well. It then broke their airbox mount which is nothing but a piece of garbage home hardware junk of ready rod. Then the airbox blew off! Awesome! Good thing there's been no snow or I would have ingested into the engine for sure.
Then you're constantly wondering why the sled runs different from day to day. Because more stuff has rattled loose!
2. What factory components have to be modified or "moved" to install the kit? On mine they move the ECU and the power valve motor. Looked like they would be ok?... Nope! The new ECU mount put the harness real real close to a sharp edge of the bulkhead. Close you think would be ok cause it wasn't touching right? Nope cause when the whole system bounced around on the trail the harness would chaff and eventually rubbed through, shorted to ground and killed the sled. Plus fried the $1100 stator from the arcing. Spent $2000 there alone fixing wires and chasing electrical problems.
Plus being towed out again.
Then the BOV's they used to use are Chinese garbage! Least they don't use those anymore. Started sticking and messing up after a couple rides.
3. Fuel system programming. Yes they use the Boost-it fuel system which is amazing when set up by Neil at Boost-it.
TSS only uses half of the capability of what the box can actually do. It can compensate for temp, altitude, air intake temp etc etc. but they won't tell you that.
KPA oilelss turbos. I got lucky and still got one of the last Garrett kits. I don't know how well kpa's work, but I know there's only one distributor. If he ever goes outta business good luck getting parts and service.
Does TSS tell you you have to take off the kpa turbo and send it in for service to the bearing section every year? Nope! But yep it's right from kpa itself as recommended maintenance.
When my sled would run yes it was amazing and pulled so hard! But I've had my hood off fixing, or been towed out more then been riding.
If you have a chance look at boost-it's own turbo kit. All top if the line parts and the kit has actually been engineered to hold together and not self destruct it's self.
They don't move your ECU, power valve motor. They agree cat put it somewhere for a reason so leave it where it's engineered to be. Their turbo has an actual "mount" and it can not and will not bounce around. I've now dropped my TSS m8 off at boost-it to get all of the problems resolved. Yes more money and lost riding time, but least it should run more then a couple hours without breaking. I'm don't mean to bash TSS but their kit has honestly fell apart and caused me a Ton of problems. Just a heads up to potential customers.
The Miku's were though always friendly to talk to and did seem very knowledgable in their product. I think they haven't done enough durability testing and research before they released a product to the public.
Boost-It is hands down the most best running, designed and tested kit available.
TSS' newer kits may be better but this is my honest non biased experience over two full seasons on mine.
1. How is the turbo, oil tank and oil pump secured to the sled?... Haven't seen the new TSDS kits, but mine just "rested" on a bracket on the lower bulkhead. Only gravity and the pipe springs secured it. So over the rough trails to the alpine the turbo assembly would bounce and the pipe would pivot on the y-pipe donut as it is not solidly mounted. Essentially TSS used the pipe as a structural support. Which it was never designed for. I've gone through 4 donuts in 300 miles plus hours of chasing boost leaks cause I didn't think it was the y pipe donut again!...
Then as well with the turbo bouncing around it makes the charge tube and air box jump around as well. It then broke their airbox mount which is nothing but a piece of garbage home hardware junk of ready rod. Then the airbox blew off! Awesome! Good thing there's been no snow or I would have ingested into the engine for sure.
Then you're constantly wondering why the sled runs different from day to day. Because more stuff has rattled loose!
2. What factory components have to be modified or "moved" to install the kit? On mine they move the ECU and the power valve motor. Looked like they would be ok?... Nope! The new ECU mount put the harness real real close to a sharp edge of the bulkhead. Close you think would be ok cause it wasn't touching right? Nope cause when the whole system bounced around on the trail the harness would chaff and eventually rubbed through, shorted to ground and killed the sled. Plus fried the $1100 stator from the arcing. Spent $2000 there alone fixing wires and chasing electrical problems.
Plus being towed out again.
Then the BOV's they used to use are Chinese garbage! Least they don't use those anymore. Started sticking and messing up after a couple rides.
3. Fuel system programming. Yes they use the Boost-it fuel system which is amazing when set up by Neil at Boost-it.
TSS only uses half of the capability of what the box can actually do. It can compensate for temp, altitude, air intake temp etc etc. but they won't tell you that.
KPA oilelss turbos. I got lucky and still got one of the last Garrett kits. I don't know how well kpa's work, but I know there's only one distributor. If he ever goes outta business good luck getting parts and service.
Does TSS tell you you have to take off the kpa turbo and send it in for service to the bearing section every year? Nope! But yep it's right from kpa itself as recommended maintenance.
When my sled would run yes it was amazing and pulled so hard! But I've had my hood off fixing, or been towed out more then been riding.
If you have a chance look at boost-it's own turbo kit. All top if the line parts and the kit has actually been engineered to hold together and not self destruct it's self.
They don't move your ECU, power valve motor. They agree cat put it somewhere for a reason so leave it where it's engineered to be. Their turbo has an actual "mount" and it can not and will not bounce around. I've now dropped my TSS m8 off at boost-it to get all of the problems resolved. Yes more money and lost riding time, but least it should run more then a couple hours without breaking. I'm don't mean to bash TSS but their kit has honestly fell apart and caused me a Ton of problems. Just a heads up to potential customers.
The Miku's were though always friendly to talk to and did seem very knowledgable in their product. I think they haven't done enough durability testing and research before they released a product to the public.
Boost-It is hands down the most best running, designed and tested kit available.
TSS' newer kits may be better but this is my honest non biased experience over two full seasons on mine.
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samsquatch47
Well-known member
On and no I didn't install the kit myself. I drove 13 hours one way and TSS installed it at their shop themselves. So it was installed "right"
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E-Zmoke 4:20
Well-known member
Wow! I bet your really looking forward to this season on the Boost-It setup. You won't be disappointed 
