Silber Clutch Engagement

[sledhedXP]

Are you thinking that you don’t need to reshim?
You should check your belt to sheave measurement with any kit, even in stock form.
Polaris belt to sheave measurements, from the factory, have been 0-.120”.
You are leaving a lot of performance and belt life on the table by not checking and adjusting belt to sheave.
If you are at .120”, your fly weight has to make up that distance before it engages the belt. It’s like starting off in your pickup in third gear. Next you theoretically lost .120” worth of shift out. The centrifugal force of the weight can only shift out to the position where it hits its inherent neutral position.
If you want top performance you must adjust your belt to sheave to spec. Set one up with .020” and one with .120” and go test.

I was responding to @Sheetmetalfab getting decent performance without reshimming. I'm a relative newbie to turbo clutching and trying to absorb info as well as mentioning what my local Silber dealer does differently with his clutching setups. If reshimming is needed, can it be done in increments that keep the original clutch balance? Have a buddy who has reshimmed his clutches but always has them rebalanced afterwards due to the clutch not lining up like it does originally. (I am not the OP for this thread who was asking for help with his turbo clutching, just following along and trying to learn here. )

 

[TRS]

Yes sir, I understand.
There are a couple videos out there that explain how to adjust belt to sheave and keep things in balance. They are misleading. Your stationary, moveable and cover must align after adjustment to stay in relative balance. The videos “do not” take the stationary into account or mark it as part of the unit.
Here are the pages right out of the manual.
Sorry to take this off topic, but it is relative to engagement.

 

[tdbaugha]

Funny how dan has had the tucked under weight for 3 seasons now and boondocker is now copying the design and calling it revolutionary.

FWIW, TRS (lightning) weights have been popular for 5+ seasons. Same tucked design with the same helix philosophy.

To the OP, you can run any number of clutch kits with some success depending on how much you push the sled. TRS and Indy Specialty are the only way to go if you want smooth engagement, good belt life, and high performance.