set up tip 08 wr 450 with mtn tamer

[yukondood]

just picked up a used kit and will install on my 08 wr 450

specifically breather hoses, air fitler and jetting.

what are guys doing with vent lines

what about air filter is a mesh filter over top of faom filter enough

jetting for 2-7000feet -15 celcius range

thanks in advance

 

[travisp]

Setup

Hey ive been running a snowbike for 2 years going on 3 now go 1 or 2 steps biger on your pilot jet that will help it start better dont change the main ...theres not much you can do woth your vent lines but if you have a engine vent that runs to your carb on that bike you will want to take it out of your carb and plug the carb side then extend the engine vent line up under your gas tank as high as posible to keep from oil blow by ...if you got the timber sled just get a prefilter that they sell and ride the heck out of it !!!!!!

 

[Rush44]

I'm going to be bolting my kit on this weekend or early next week. My buddy creates his own filter and has a few install tips that we are going to run through. I'll report back my results and hopefully I'll have a few tips for you.

Get ready to shred this winter!

 

[yukondood]

thanks guys, good tips, keep em coming. I am checking the mail daily waiting for the new peices to mount the kit. I bought it off a buddy who ran it on a yz. Mail man hurry the f up

 

[Jon Mutiger]

I'd also look at getting steel sprockets for it, if you bought a used kit, the kits used to come with Alum. sprockets, unless he upgraded they aren't gonna wear very well.

With that said, on a used kit I'd look at the overall alignment of your drivetrain. Look on both sides of the sprockets and look for even wear. If you loosen all drive chains, and then all drive related fastners, you can re-align the axles of the kit so that they are all perfectly paralell to each other.

Outside of that, get yourself a fresh battery.. Make sure your kick starter is greased so it doesn't let you down out there.. Then go rip it up!!!!!!!!!

 

[Rush44]

Horse is bolted and was de-virginized yesterday in some pretty crappy snow. Anyways, I figured I'd comment on some WR450 info I've already noticed so far....

First, the install went just fine and pretty much follows the directions with minimal "what the hell do they want us to do?" moments. The brake info on the 2012 kit instructions came with the brake info for the 2011 model. Dave @ Timbersled said they are fixing the issue with the instructions, but it still wasn't a big deal. Just make sure the brake master cylinder is disconnected during the tear down and deal with it later. The last part we put back on was the foot brake.

Second, the air box looks like it can be dealt with a few ways. My buddy just cuts some prefilter material in the shape of the intake holes on the outside of the bike plastic and attaches it to the bike with some Velcro strips that run the edge of the prefilter. The advantage to this is being able to take it off on snowy wet days, beat it on your seat to break up the ice, and then velcro it back on. Back in business. For the WR450 I was thinking we could do the same thing to the box intake under the seat... like a 2 stage filter. I tipped the bike over a couple times on my first ride and that exterior hole definitely gets some snow in it, so you would want the outside one for sure. We also choose to run the intake with no stock air filter, only the prefilter Timbersled provided with the kit. My buddy builds a wire cage to expand it over the stock base of the air filter and then spreads the prefilter around that.

I'm not sure what my current jetting is and that is the next stage of tuning for me. The bike is currently setup for riding here around 3500ft and I would imagine we got up near around 5600ft yesterday. No sputtering or real hard starting... I think the cold was the main factor. The two other fuel injected KX450's I was with said they were running a tad rich and had black rings around their exhaust. I had a little bit of black residue, but not as much as they did. Like I said, this part is a work in progress for me. I'll have more info soon.

The main issue of the day was the foot brake. It is not what I would prefer at all. I was constantly reminded all day of the times when a hand brake would have made life much easier for me. Loading the bike from a ramp into the back of a truck can be a serious issue when you have no hand brake to grab while you walk the bike up the slick ramp. It wants to come back down on you backwards and it's really sketchy. If you want to walk the bike downhill through a tree'd area you have no brake control and the bike wants to run away from you. If you want to maintain a downhill sidehill on your right side you have to fight between putting your foot out and applying the brake. As a snowmobiler I have to purposely think about braking now... it's not a reaction. I'm getting a longer hand brake cable and hooking my stock master cylinder and lever up to the Horse caliper. Foot brake has got to go.

Also for the WR450... stock front fork settings are way way too soft. The front end dives really hard from weight transfers and letting off the power. I am going to max out my dampening and rebound settings and see if that makes enough of a difference. After that I will be replacing springs and I'll have more info on what works for me then.

Other than that the Horse is a freakin blast. That bike becomes some kind of other animal in the powder and it's really cool. I didn't get to do a ton of climbing but the little I did impressed the hell out of me. I love how it holds a knife edge so easy and the WR really seemed to have plenty of power. I was with a couple hot KX450's and they didn't seem to be able to do anything different or better than I could. The front suspension coming down through a fire clearing was my biggest issue, not the power of the bike.

I think the WR450 can be a great bike with a little bit of tweaking. Oh, and the seat. HOLY CRAP the seat is a damn anvil. I already ordered a bigger, softer seat this morning. I'm not going to ride through a weekend on that stiff saddle EVER.

 

[Ryanexcr]

Nice!!!

That's awesome Rush44 I have had mine on for a week now and went out twice it is a freaking blast I also feel the same way with the brake and was constantly trying to grab the front brake lever oh thats right I don't have one lol. I tried to use my existing front brake line but it is about 3" to Short haha story of my life lol

 

[Rush44]

The 2012 kits won't require a separate lever and a master cylinder like the 2011 kits did. I've been told that the rear caliper has been changed between these years and your stock equipment will work.... you just need a 60 inch brake line to make it back to the Horse. So once you have the cable just trade out your stock one and BAM-O... hand brake.

 

[snowhawkaddict]

Hoser.

Cable's probably what yer intranet's on.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7GogRZwFXoA

Don't drink too many beer's threading that tube through the chassi, and remember brake "OIL" is water soiluble and warshes off.

Put a pic up in the thread above showin that Yamahaski, with a brew.

 

[Rush44]

Cable, brake line... u know what I mean. Funny you are the second person to call me on that one. Haha.

 

[powdermuncher]

The 2012 kits won't require a separate lever and a master cylinder like the 2011 kits did. I've been told that the rear caliper has been changed between these years and your stock equipment will work.... you just need a 60 inch brake line to make it back to the Horse. So once you have the cable just trade out your stock one and BAM-O... hand brake.

Does the brake actually work now??? still piking wood out of my teeth thinking the brake would actually work instead it has that 2 second delay.

 

[Rush44]

Does the brake actually work now??? still piking wood out of my teeth thinking the brake would actually work instead it has that 2 second delay.

I was discussing this very problem with my buddy and he may have found the problem. The delay has nothing to do with the lever, master cylinder, or the brake caliper. The delay appears to come from the snow and ice buildup on the brake disc. 2-3 seconds of light pull burns the ice off and then the brake starts to work right. Otherwise you have to grab it hard and its 100% brake from the get go.

 

[Jon Mutiger]

I wonder if a simple plastic deflector rigged up to the disc would keep the snow from packing up in the caliper? I think I'll try something, as I'm not a big fan of the double pump needed to get the brakes going either.

 

[Mtn. Muncher]

Not sure how you guys are riding but I do not use the brake all that much I use the engine braking and gearing to slow the bike when going downhill and only use the brake when I need to lock up the track to stop. I have used both a lot and decided that I was faster through the trees with a foot brake because I could more accurately use the brake, clutch and throttle all at the same time. The hand brake is nice when the right foot peg is down in the snow. I guess there is a trade off for both ways. I think whatever you are accustomed to is best.

 

[Revv Up]

Makes me wonder how we can use both the foot brake and handlebar brake to activate the caliper, anyone have a hot idea?

My BMW motorcycle has coupled brakes so it has to be doable.

 

[Rush44]

Both would be excellent. That would be a great upgrade.

 

[Mtn. Muncher]

Rekluse makes a kit that hooks up both hand and foot brakes. I know they are available for KTM but not sure if they are available for Yamaha.

 

[powdermuncher]

They are available for the Yami as well Mike just got the whole set up.

Yukondood I have some Gen 2 skis for you to try as well if you wish .

cheers.........

 

[teal_210]

I'd also look at getting steel sprockets for it, if you bought a used kit, the kits used to come with Alum. sprockets, unless he upgraded they aren't gonna wear very well.

With that said, on a used kit I'd look at the overall alignment of your drivetrain. Look on both sides of the sprockets and look for even wear. If you loosen all drive chains, and then all drive related fastners, you can re-align the axles of the kit so that they are all perfectly paralell to each other.

Outside of that, get yourself a fresh battery.. Make sure your kick starter is greased so it doesn't let you down out there.. Then go rip it up!!!!!!!!!

How do you get the axels realigned? Seems like they end up back in the same spot once you tighten everything back down. My drive sprocket is not aligned correctly, causing excessive wear on the sprocket. Same problem on other kits that I've looked at.

I wasn't aware of any alignment adjustments.

 

[yukondood]

powdermuncher

powdermuncher, I would like to to try the ski. Where are located? and/or how much.

thanks