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Rear suspension set up

K

klarkkentster

Well-known member
Ski-Doo Klim 509 BCA Starting Line Products
In process of setting up my rear suspension. My understanding is front track shock controls transfer - no preload = more ski pressure - add preload to lighten the ski’s.

RTS - set sag at 2-3 ish inches and the adjust according of your bottoming. Adding preload ads ski pressure. Removing is the opposite. Curious if I have this all wrong.

Some of the pros fun very little preload in the front track shock and more on the rear track shock to aid in getting up on the snow.

My goal is to find the settings that aide in off trail riding and side hilling etc.

I’ve also hear theories on little to a bunch of preload on the ski shocks to help with this.


I watched a vide with Carl’s cycles on suspension and seams to support the above unless I’m misunderstanding.

What’s all of your experiences and settings for mountain riding. 163”.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
Thanks for starting this, I’m also very interested in this topic.
 
Yes, adding front track shock preload (tightening/shortening the spring length) to essentially make the shock stiffer to compress, will keep the front of the skid pushed into the snow and reduce ski pressure. This will basically make the sled feel lighter and more playful in the front end. As a result of this, the track will trench a little more and this may create too much lif in the front (&trenching) when climbing steep terrain or in other technical terrain. That is the trade off some may say. I have a 155 and added some preload (reduced the FTS spring length by about 1/4) and I liked the result. I can’t give personal experience feedback on the RTS as I never did adjust that.
 
You could spend a winter just trying to dial in suspension. Snowmobiles are especially challenging because of the constantly changing snow conditions also the different kinds of riding. Trail riding versus boondocking vs jumping.
Remember to only adjust one thing at a time. A turn or two on shock preload can make a big difference. You can also adjust several turns as your learning what different adjustments will effect so you can really see what that does just make sure you know where you started so you can put it back where you began if need be.
I like a planted front end a couple years ago I thought I had the adjustment I liked until I went to do a creek crossing and the front end wouldn’t lift with the throttle and I nose planted into the opposite bank. It’s always a trade off and almost every rider prefers a different set up.

I don’t think you want a lot of preload on the ski shock for side hilling or boon docking you will get bounced around especially if you cross old tracks when side hilling you are compressing the ski shock that’s in the snow a substantial amount and you want to make sure you have plenty of stroke left in the shock so if you hit an object or old rut the shock can still absorb the impact and not kick you off the hill.
 
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