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Rear suspension mounting holes???

machinest660

Well-known member
Lifetime Membership
Has anyone tried running the front of the rear skid in the lower mounting hole without doing the geo mod??? what were the results better,worse, trencher???? thanks
 
I put mine in the lower hole after two years of trenching badly on an 09 M8 LE. I only have one ride with the change, but I like it alot better. You might need to bump your pressure in the rear skid shock up also. I'm around 215 dressed with pack and beer and set the rear shock to 135 lbs. Be sure to test in different kinds of snow before judging. Where we ride we can go from hard to fluff with a base to bottomless so I had a pretty good day of testing. You might consider an anti-stab kit with the change.
 
Sorry about the lazy answer from my phone. I moved the suspension to the lower hole and didn't change a thing and it was much better handling all the way around including steering effort.

I changed my rear float to a Raptor rear coilover and still didn't see any trenching.

Make the move, you won't regret it and if you don't like it you can just put it back.

John
 
Thanks for the replies guys, I already have the holes drilled out. I did them when I changed my rear shocks over to the z bros and also did the anti stab kit at the same time. I always thought that by going to the lower hole would make it trench worse due to the steeper aproach angle???? I will give it a try next time we head out west. We just dont have enough snow in the praries to be testing, although the few miles i did put on I can say I like the Z bros shocks and just bought some for the front along with there 38.5" a-arms. I cant wait for my next trip. Here is a dumb question but when you guys with the fox sloats are adding and removing air from your rear shock would that be the same as me setting my clickers softer or harder??? or adding more or less spring preload??? thanks :face-icon-small-hap
 
The suspension experts may weigh in and correct me but I think since the standard Float doesn't have any other adjustment outside of the single air pressure point changing pressure would be equal parts preload and clicker change for your exit. I suspect the adjustment would then be a compromise to what you need as well.
 
Ive been thinking of moving the location of the mounting holes for the front skid shock. Moving the bottom mounting shaft forward and usig longer limiter straps but if everyone is having good luck with just dropping to the lower hole in the tunnel that would be easier.
I want more ski lift which is why I have been thinking of doing something.
 
In the 153's I like it dropped. Works great, but will require some adjustment of setup to get it just right. (for most I'd think)


On my 141 I'm thinking about dropping both holes(F&R of skid) to see how that affects washout... might be worth a try. Easy enough to go back.
 
I dropped mine but then put it back up, too much ski lift was unmanageable in the trees

you need to change the setup a little bit for it to work the way you want.

You can make the lower hole setup work well by setting it to run "flatter" which will give more initial lift, but then be able to stop/ control the transfer.
 
I still don't see the obvious place where you guys are drilling.

We're talking about the front skid mount.....the bolt that sits by your ankles when riding on the sled right? Moving that down what? One horizontal inch or something? (2010 tunnel BTW)
 
I still don't see the obvious place where you guys are drilling.

We're talking about the front skid mount.....the bolt that sits by your ankles when riding on the sled right? Moving that down what? One horizontal inch or something? (2010 tunnel BTW)

It's ok KW... you skiers are usually a bit slow, I'll draw you a diagram or somethin:face-icon-small-win :D

That bolt, dropping straight down 3/4" or so, the hole is inside the tunnel on all the sleds I've had. (2 layer of material, the hole is only on the inside layer)
 
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It's ok KW... you skiers are usually a bit slow, I'll draw you a diagram or somethin:face-icon-small-win :D

That bolt, dropping straight down 3/4" or so, the hole is inside the tunnel on all the sleds I've had. (2 layer of material, the hole is only on the inside layer)

In my own defense, I may just be more blind than stupid. :D

I remember looking for it and didn't see anything obvious. I'll check again when I get home. I hate the way this sled rides on whooped out trails so I want to do this stuff.
 
In my own defense, I may just be more blind than stupid. :D

Maybe we can get you one of these...

images





:rockon::rockon:
 
I've got some schweet curb ticklers on my a-arms so I think I'm good.

Thanks!
 
you need to change the setup a little bit for it to work the way you want.

You can make the lower hole setup work well by setting it to run "flatter" which will give more initial lift, but then be able to stop/ control the transfer.

Im curious as to what changes I would need to make it run flatter and not wheelie all the time with the front swing arm in the lower hole. My limiters are pretty well all the way out and in the stock hole it still becomes unmanageable in the trees when you come in and out of traction.

I have tried different spring pressures on the front shock and different air pressures in the rear shock and seem to have the best luck with about 5 threads showing under the rings on the front shock and about 130 psi in the rear float, I weigh about 250. I am running a 162 powerclaw and about 200 horse.
 
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