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Manual chain tensioner

G

Gxf800sphc2012

Well-known member
Installing my manual chain adjuster which is from one stop performance and can be tightned externally. How tight should i tighten it? Back with the zr's that i rode that were tensioned with a manual tensioner just got it finger tight then locked the jam nut? Any rejections to that method or know of other ways to tighten manual tensioner correctly? Thanks
 
Hm, kinda makes you wonder with all the flexi stuff going on. Do the racer models have the auto adjuster? If not whats there spec?
 
Old rule of thumb used to be finger tight. I think ill do it w the case open and see how it looks and make my own Rule. Racers have manual tensioners
 
What did you decide to do for gearing? ( sorry for the helpful answer yesterday, I was driving on I70 home from Moab in the snow)

I'd think the same tension as on other chaincases would do fine.


Btw...chains r ghey...mmkay?

Sent from my A200 using Tapatalk 2
 
Hm, kinda makes you wonder with all the flexi stuff going on. Do the racer models have the auto adjuster? If not whats there spec?

No the racer has a manual tensioner . It uses the spring though to keep the pad from flipping around if it where to stretch that far . If you look on speedwerks site under the race setups there is a bulletin on this for the 13 racer . Might want to follow that ?..




• It is very easy to over tighten your chain assembly. When tensioner(4) is backed off, aluminum tensioner plate(2) will rattle as you push in and out on bolt(4). Screw tension bolt(4) in until plate(2) no longer rattles. This means that the tensioner bolt(4) has just came in contact with the plate(2), and proper tension is applied. If you continue to thread in tensioner bolt(4), even by hand, you could very easily over tension chain causing failure or tight chain links.

Here is the right up . Hope it's of use .
 
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Chains may be gay but there the manufactures responsibility when they fail!

If only there was a way to avoid jackshafts, chains, and dealing with tensioners...

Btw, the mfg should be responsible whether it's a dd, chain, or belt... Polaris is one weasly POS company.

Sent from my A200 using Tapatalk 2
 
I can adjust this externally installing it today and i think ill use my tension judgement. Done this for years in the past... think i can figure it out again. If its too loose give it another 1/4 turn
 
so here is my end result

tightned by hand with 9/16 socket untill it stopped and locked the jam nut took it for a ride and its never sounded smoother.
a few extra things i encountered

1. there are pieces of the chaincase cover that are mad in that location to hold the auto tensioner in its place so that the chain stayes tight ( l m f a off what a joke) :focus: so i had to cut these slivers of aluminum away so that the cover would close. drilling the hole was tricky getting it strait without moving the bellypan.

2. other than that the project went pretty smooth and works like a charm i got my product from One Stop Performance (OSP)
$155 shipped
it was either that or wait for one in feb and not ride my sled till cat decides to make more... wasnt waiting bit the bullet and now im golden

manual chain tensioner2.jpg manual chain tensioner.jpg
 
on another note that slipped my mind..... while i had it all appart i grabbed the jackshaft nut with just my hand and it was LOOSE AS A GOOSE... went to the local cat dealer and they let me borrow the socket. and gave her a good CRANNNK and folded another tab down. hope she stayes tight... thining in a few hundred miles ill tear her appart and check it agian if its loose agian im going to loctite the PISS out of it
 
on another note that slipped my mind..... while i had it all appart i grabbed the jackshaft nut with just my hand and it was LOOSE AS A GOOSE... went to the local cat dealer and they let me borrow the socket. and gave her a good CRANNNK and folded another tab down. hope she stayes tight... thining in a few hundred miles ill tear her appart and check it agian if its loose agian im going to loctite the PISS out of it

On the jackshaft if it keeps coming loose . On the nut drill it out and tap it and put set screws in each side . I'm doing this to mine it seems pretty solid Loctite as well :) Just a idea
 
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Locktite wont work on a nut so big with such little mating surface area,i like the drill a hole idea, my whole thing with the auto adjusting chain was the lack of a roller on the auto tensioner, your asking for wear on a metal to metal surface.

Also the little pin that goes in through the shoe (part that mates with the chain) is barely long enough and mine pushed one direction and cockeyed the shoe which led to my chain case failure, i thought about tack welding this pin in on this rebuild but let cat do it all through warranty so i haven't tore into it. Im going to give it a couple hundo then inspect. :)

-Aksnopro
 
Hmmmm now i like the idea of a roller just saw my brothers rev800h.o. chaincase appart and those have a nice lookin roller i wonder if i could make that work since i have my old tensioner arm i can play with it see what i can do
 
Tired of repair chain box because of imperfect mechanism. Decided to put exeperimental replaced chain box from SNO PRO 600 ! Now run the tests! :face-icon-small-coo
http://www.arcticcatpartshouse.com/oemparts/a/arc/50a2ef91f870021c04be37e3/chain-case-assembly


but you still dont have a roller on your chain tensioner... u actually have the same setup as me... but i only added the tensioner... i think my mod was a bit simpler than changing the whole case out and serves the same purpose? fitting the roller will be my next experiment
 
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