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If it weren't for bad luck...

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redwolf_92

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Feb 19, 2011
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This is going to be a little bit of a rant so please bear with me because I do need some help at the end of my little tyrade.

I love sleds, I love riding sleds, hell I even love working on sleds, but I am about ready to pull my hair out. I have an 08' M1k ( the sled in my sig). This will be my third season on it and I am just sick and tired of chasing problems.

The first season I owned it everything was going great. Riding it here in the low, flat country had me feeling really excited to get it into the mountains. Unfortunately, the first day I had it out west I started encountering problems with the electrical system. I had just landed a big jump out of a washout straight into a side hill when it just died on me. We couldn't get it restarted until we had the tow rope hooked up and I decided to give it one more pull just in case it would start. Apparently the universe likes irony because it started at that point. It started, but it was throwing random error codes up on the gauge. I think I counted a total of 8 different codes that would cycle in random order. I took it to the cat dealer in Laramie and they told me it was the primary clutch and charged me a cool grand for a new clutch plus labor. The original clutch did have a bad roller, but that was NOT the problem. Needless to say, I spent the whole trip trying to troubleshoot my sled while the other guys were off riding.

After that (last year) I decided that I was going to go through everything and really make sure that I had a good reliable ride. I did some updates to the motor including a pipe, can, big air intake, reeds, oil delete, and I sent both the clutches out to slp to be balanced and setup to there specs (Don't do this! SLP failed to tell me that my secondary was shot when I sent it to them and they charged me full price to install rock rollers, helix, and spring. I rode it for a week and blew 3 belts. Cat dealer took it off and put it on the bench and showed me how wore it was. A new secondary and I haven't blown a belt in 300 miles. I attempted to get my money back from slp for the labor on that clutch, but they wouldn't work with me). I pulled the entire electrical system out and checked every square inch for rubs, cuts, burns, anything that might cause a problem. I replaced the CCU and sent the ECU out for a reflash. I pulled the diamond drive and replaced every bearing and seal. I even did the 09' tunnel update and the 09' e-reverse update. There was more, but I'm sure you get the picture. The first (and only) trip I took last year was to Togwotee with a few fellow snowesters that I met on the site. The sled ran great the whole trip! My happiness was short lived though because the same electrical gremlin came back to haunt me two days after I got back from Tog. I had to cancel two other trips that I had scheduled last year because the ole M1k was acting up. Finally, right at the end of the riding season I was able to get it figured out (ended up being the exhaust sensor).

This year (takes a breath to calm down) I pulled it out of storage and it was running good. I rode it about a mile before I pulled it in the shop for the pre-season inspection. During the inspection I found some cracks in the bulkhead which is not uncommon in the m series. So I tore it down to the bare aluminum and took her in to get fixed up. The welder did a great job of fixing the cracks and I was reassembling in no time. Last night I was in the home stretch and thought maybe I would have the post assembly maiden voyage today. Alas, my dreams were dashed. I noticed some 2 cycle oil on the shop floor under the engine and realized it was coming out of a breather hole that goes to the water pump shaft. At that point I decided to pull the plug on the bottom of the case where the oiler used to connect (I have a small reservoir and a line connected to it that I fill every other ride to make sure that the pump drive stays lubed). When I pulled the plug there were a bunch of brass shavings that came out. :mad2: I tore down the engine today. The pistons look fantastic. The cylinders look fantastic. Everything looks fantastic except for the brass gear that drives the water pump. Its not terrible, but the ridges are razor sharp so I am sure that it won't last much longer.

It's just one thing after another. All I wanted was a reliable sled. I loved it when it was running good, but all these problems are making me crazy.

There, rant over.

First question is about the crank. Can I get it sent out and have a new gear put in it? I am going to do a top end while I have it tore down. Can I hone the nicasil plated cylinders? What else should I be looking for while I am doing this? I have done a lot of engine rebuilds both 2 and 4 stroke, but this is my first cat.Thanks for your help.
 
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m8magicandmystery

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I assume the lube line to the cavity is always capped real air tight until lube is added but to wear the brass gear like that seems like the bdx delete washer was doubled up with the one that was to be removed or not added etc or if not capped real tight on lube line an air wash effect of the gear lube..just shooting in the dark here..

yes that gear can be replaced..Eckhoff etc..

so now is the time to drill the case for the delete ultimate piece of mind..
 
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redwolf_92

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Feb 19, 2011
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I did not have the washers doubled up. There was approximately 500 miles on the oil delete. My theory is that I didn't add oil to the reservoir at the end of the season before storage so it was probably completely dry when I started it again. I only ran it for about 20 minutes before bringing it in the shop, but 20 minutes without lube could have done the damage.

Can you point me in the right direction to show me how to drill the case? Is there a thread that describes the process?
 
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redwolf_92

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Feb 19, 2011
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I have found some info on drilling the case. From the pics I have seen, it looks like I will be drilling the upper case half with an angled hole into the pump drive cavity. I have seen some pics with one side drilled and I have seen some pics with both sides drilled. It seems to me that drilling both sides would cause a lot more mix to be drawn back and forth, but will that affect performance at all if the two crank chambers will be drawing mix from the wrong side of the case? Or will the effect be small enough to not notice?

Is it safe to hone a plated cylinder? I ordered a new set of standard bore pistons with rings and all that, but plan to reuse the cylinders.
 
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m8magicandmystery

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I don't know...speedwerx drills the cases but I think only one side..
and as well there is another way the turbo guys do it on the underside by connecting
the lower crankcase by tapping the bottom and connecting a short hose to the cavity fitting which is fool proof as well..

since your engine is going to be apart for sure do one or the other..

Backcountryislife will be a big help if you pm him..

no I don't think the 20 minutes start up was the culpurt on the brass gear...the 800s have been virtually fool proof with standard install of the delete....it does seem a couple times the 1000 has had a hiccup but don't know the real reason
 
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Rixster

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Yes you can hone the cylinders, use a ball hone NOT a 3 blade hone, or if that's all you have just go super easy on them. You don't have to do the top end with the bottom if you don't want to. or if you just did.
When I did my oil delete I put a grease zerk in the bottom of the cases where that oil line went in. I give it 2-3 pumps every 4-6 rides. 2 years with it not a single issue. I just don't have much faith in the little bottle of oil technique. You should be able to find a local machine shop that will do the crank work for you. I cant imagine that a good machine shop would charge more than $100 to do that.

Gear, Oil Pump Drive
3007-269
looks like its about $135
 
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redwolf_92

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Thanks for the replies guys.

The cylinders look great so I plan on hitting them up with a little scotch bright to clean up the carbon and slightly "deglaze" them. After reading and watching a lot of info on nikasil plating it sounds like it doesn't really get a glaze that needs to be removed and if there is no visible damage then there is no need to hone. I don't have the correct ball hone. Come to think of it, I did use the 3 blade hone on some nik'd Polaris cylinders last year for a friends rebuild. Haven't had any trouble with his engine. I am going to stick with the scotch bright idea and see how it works.

I was debating doing the top end while I had the motor out for the bulkhead repair so this just made the decision really easy. This motor has about 3k miles on it without a rebuild so it was due.

I found the part numbers and prices for all the stuff I need. I will also have to put a new oil seal on the water pump shaft. If you remember from my long rant I mentioned that there was gas an oil leaking from the shaft breather hole on the bottom of the case. If it can leak gas and oil out then it can suck air back in and that's a recipe for an early failure. Would that seal be part of a full gasket/seal rebuild kit?

I was surprised to find that I actually live just a little over an hour away from Eckhoff's so I am going to try to get in touch with them and see what kind of price they quote me.

My rebuild list consists of a full SPI gasket kit, 2 SPI T-moly pistons (with all the necessary hardware), arctic cat parts for the crank gear and the water pump shaft, finding a shop to do the crank work, and drilling the case to allow gas/oil into the drive cavity.

Unless someone can point me in the direction of a cheaper brass gear for the crank or offer some good advice on rebuilding this monster, I think I have a pretty good plan. Does anyone have a link to the torque specs for the various nuts and bolts on this engine?
 
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redwolf_92

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Here are a few pics of what I have going on. I could possibly get away with removing all the burrs and cleaning it up really well, but I wouldn't be able to sleep well at night.

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uploadfromtaptalk1388386144923.jpg uploadfromtaptalk1388386167668.jpg
 

m8magicandmystery

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I have specs on 07..

regardless of who done my crank work I would still do a crank runout test with dial indicator when I had crank back and in the case....just incase they had a newbie playing with your crank..
 
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m8magicandmystery

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I have found some info on drilling the case. From the pics I have seen, it looks like I will be drilling the upper case half with an angled hole into the pump drive cavity. I have seen some pics with one side drilled and I have seen some pics with both sides drilled. /QUOTE]

can you post a link..?? I have a spare short block on the bench and I think I will drill it...
 
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diggerdown

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You might want to check with country cat and see if they do crank work. Eckhoff's seemed high priced when I checked with them on cylinder work.
 
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redwolf_92

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I actually found a local guy that comes recommended by my dealer. He is a little busy, but I am going on a cruise on Saturday so that gives him some extra time to get everything together. I took some pics of where I drilled my case, but they are on my phone so I will have to make another post to show you what I did.
 
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redwolf_92

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I actually did something a little bit different than what I have seen. The sno pro racer's that come from the factory without oil injection have a hole drilled from the Reed port into the cavity and a hole drilled from same port as the one that supplies oil to the bearing. I drilled those two holes and added the one that I have seen in the pics here on sw (middle).

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uploadfromtaptalk1388504428547.jpg uploadfromtaptalk1388504528479.jpg
 
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