HOW TO: Rigid LED Install with Wiring

[CDK]

so I'm going to be doing something similr to the delete that skinz puts out. should ijust follow the same basic principles as described in this tread? I would like to use the factory hi/low switch, but only using 1 led. what is my best course of action?

You can essentially power any AC or DC light with this setup; the trick is finding the correct resistor to run in conjunction with your LED light, so it draws the same amount of watts as the factory lighting. Post up some specs of what you want to run, and the folks on here can help you through it.

 

[tbeaton]

9-030v Input DC
20w CREE 10w XM-L T6 LED's

that's all I have for specs on the lights right now. they wont be here for a week or so. I want to try an make this as painless as possible. I have to do this setup on 2 sleds and possible a similar setup but using 2 of the leds for my buddies dad who rides more trails.

 

[mountin fit]

skinz delete upgrade

so I'm going to be doing something similr to the delete that skinz puts out.

We offer a quick and easy way to put mesh in your skinz delete.http://stores.mountainfithoods.net/skinz-proride-headlight-delete-upgrade-kit/

 

[waitemr13]

so maybe i missed it but why when we measure the voltage at the factory light plug it reads like.003 volts when it should be reading 12 volts. correct?

 

[CDK]

You're measuring it when the sled is running, using an AC meter?

 

[tbeaton]

what does the factory head lights put out for watts? I'm using one 20w led
(housing has 2 10w leds). I want to try and put this in this weekend.


edit: see what the watts are how do I determine what ohm I need?

 

[mountainhorse]

Stock headlights pull 110watts (55w ea) on low... 130watts on high (65w ea)


.

 

[tbeaton]

got it so I need a resistor to handle 110 ish when off and need a resistor to handle about 80-90 when on. so how do I figure out what resistor I need for when the lights are on?

 

[dtbprc]

LED lights on suspension

bought blue LED light strips cheap on Amazon and a few lite up dashboard switches. Added them to bellypan at edge of front suspension on each side. To make them extremely strong (not just using double side tape) I cut out a moon shaped piece of galvanized steel and glued the LED strip to each cutout. then glued and zip tied (decided not to use screws) the metal with the LED around the top of each front shock. these held up completely on many trips last year. Also added a heat shield to the one side where the lite wire came up and close to the muffler. these should stay on forever and last a long time. I can easily remove and replace them if one goes out. only thing I did not do was make a quick disconnect of the wiring. have two left over and need to decide where to put. Tunnel? mud flap? or maybe under steering handle bar?:face-icon-small-ton

 

[tbeaton]

would I be okay using the same 75 watt resistor seeing as I am only using one 20 watt led? and using the 100 watt for the off setting?

 

[Monty]

I mounted up rigid light from Skinz, decided to pull power from the AC headlight power, ran it through a bridge rectifier, problem when I rev the sled up the light cuts out....is this where a capacitor would help?

 

[Monty]

So I finished wired in the headlight with the bridge rectifier, fired up my sled the light was flickering and when I rev up the engine the light would cut out. I double checked the wiring and everything was fine. So I removed the bridge rectifier. The light stayed on with no flickering and revved up the engine and light stayed on nice and steady.....why? I do not know why. Maybe someone can chime in. All I did was took the high beam wiring out of the hood connector which is pin #1 and ground pin #8 and wired it straight to my headlight.

This is exactly what mine is doing, it's a rigid light and I know it won't run on AC though, I tried that, I'm thinking a capacitor? gonna try it anyways