Has anyone converted to a Team Tied on a 18+ proclimb

[firecat225]

Wondering if anyone has made the switch? I did see a video of someone with one on a alpha but it didnt say anything about it.

I have a flat land 2018 el tigre 8000. And i have a new tied and 15 shaft with about 5 different helixs to try. The self adjusting thing has me wondering how it would work.

Id pull the deflection adjustment bolts and measure current distance between sheeves inside to inside at outer edge with current boss on the sled so it has correct shims between sheeves.

On the tied one may need to take it apart and have a shim made to put moveable in correct position to match the boss sheeve to sheeve distance. Which would also cause the tied spider to begin travel up the helix.

It would probably be a .040-.050 shim from what im measuring. Still waiting on team to respond. They did say it would work with auto adjust primary if i remove the belt deflection bolt/nut.

I feel the high elevation guys like yourselves are not having issues because of gearing. Your not using the topend part of the secondary so your not worrried about it. Where us flatlanders who try to hit 100 here and there get hung up around 85 with a slow crawl. Lol

 

[boondocker97]

I have a tied secondary on my proclimb with a 2018 roller bearing primary. I just pulled the deflection bolts out and ran it. I feel full shift on top end was better with the older style pre-team arctic clutches.

 

[firecat225]

What are you running for a helix/spring?

Is the tied better than the boss? I would assume it would be. I may be able to help your top end from a tied.

Im planning on doing same thing, just need to check stationary alignment and possibly shim moveable in a tad. Have you had any tensioning issues or has all been well and worked just like the boss?

Thanks for the reply

 

[boondocker97]

The sled's in storage right now. I'd have to pull the secondary to confirm the helix angles. I'm not too concerned with the top end overdrive shift. The sled tops out at 80mph which is fast enough for a mountain sled and not very friendly on a 3" track. With my old 2.6" track the old style clutches would kind of stall for a moment around 70-75mph then take off and shift to 85mph before I let off. My team clutch setup does a similar thing at 60-65mph but hangs up a little longer before continuing to shift. The tied clutch has a very large inner diameter where the helix and roller setup is just like the BOSS setup. I think the 2012-2015 secondary has a smaller helix/roller diameter so the belt can get lower in the sheaves and let the primary get to full shift. Resulting in more top end overdrive.

I haven't had any tensioning issues so far running the 111 belt and using the tied clutch alignment bar. No pulled cords either. I am having issues with the washer between the clutch and jack shaft bearing getting beat up and mushroomed out. I believe it's a combination of two things: 1) the diameter of the splined inner hub that goes on the shaft is very small so the area of material contacting the washer is small and creating a lot of localized stress. 2) I'm running a Ti jackshaft that has a lot of flex and it's pinching the washer on the front side when it's under load. Happens whether I solid mount the secondary or let it float a little. I've just been changing these washers every other ride. Going to try to find some hardened ones before this season kicks off.