Flashing Green and Blue on the Silber Dobek Fuel controller?

[06-800RR]

I know this has been discussed but I have seen several fixes for this issue. TPS bad, TPS adjustment, Bad fuel controller, etc....

Who's got the answer on what the light code means?

I've seen it slow and rapid flash back and forth at idle. In this state it does bog and not run well. I've also noticed that sometimes when the sled is cold it shows the correct green light only when idling and sled then runs perfect.

(Yes, I've emailed Justin...)

2011 Assault, 2011 Silber kit.

 

[jsandgren10]

It means its not sensing boost so it doesn't know how much fuel to add while on boost. This happens if there got some moisture in it or the sensor in the box is bad. I siliconed around the boost line that connects to the center of the box and haven't had a problem. Make sure to dry it out if it got wet around there and then started flashing. If its been sitting in the garage and continues to do it I would say a bad box.

 

[06-800RR]

Damn box. That makes sense. It was having issues and especially a midrange rich bog. I took out fuel on green and yellow and ended up burning a piston. It obviously didn't provide enough fuel with the boost. Damn!

 

[Jeff K]

If you have a blue light on at idle, it is sensing boost at idle. The only way that can happen is if the box is not calibrating to atmosphere during bootup, typically because of the solenoid. Check and make sure the solenoid is getting 12V+ for 3-4 seconds at startup. You can also test the solenoid by applying 12V to it, and you should here it "click" when the voltage is applied.

 

[skibreeze]

I had a solenoid go bad, thus mine wasn't getting a blue (not sensing boost) light. It wasn't flashing, just red under full throttle and no blue. It started cutting out and hitting det. Luckily I had another solenoid to swap out.

 

[tylbz]

when my tps s#$t the bed, my sled would not start or idle unless i gave it throtle, on the control box i had 4 or 5 yellow (looks more like orange) lights showing on the box, no blue.
i did have a yellow blue light flashing on start up when my oem o2 sensor unscrewed itself from the pipe while i was riding, causing the computer to get funny readings throwing the silber box way out.

 

[06-800RR]

FYI I got a reply from Justin on this. He asked what happens when I pull the boost hose off?

Well I pinched the hose and the blue light goes away. Perfect! let go and the blue light comes back blinking.

Shutdown the engine, pinch the hose and turn the clutch a few turns. Start it back up and the light code is gone! For a while at least came back a day later but less than a minute to correct.

I've emailed Justin on these results to find out why but I thought it might be helpful for some others out there.

 

[Skadi]

Shouldn't Dobek warranty this box if it's on a pro it can't be that old!

Same thing happened to me and I got a replacement box... now that box appears to be bad too so I'm going to see about getting that warrantied... I would see if your kit provider will go to the mats for you in getting the controller warrantied....

 

[snow4shover]

Pull the hose off the solenoid that runs to the controller and start the sled?
See what the box has for lights at this point.

FYI I got a reply from Justin on this. He asked what happens when I pull the boost hose off?

Well I pinched the hose and the blue light goes away. Perfect! let go and the blue light comes back blinking.

Shutdown the engine, pinch the hose and turn the clutch a few turns. Start it back up and the light code is gone! For a while at least came back a day later but less than a minute to correct.

I've emailed Justin on these results to find out why but I thought it might be helpful for some others out there.

 

[GoHiSK1]

Green/Blue on at Idle

I have had the same thing happen to my fueling box on my Silber setup.
Usually happens when I am coming down off of the hill and getting close to parking lot. I have shut the engine off and restarted and that has cured the Green/Blue light most of the time except for my last days ride on the most recent outing where the lights refused to correct them selves even when I shut off and restarted sled multiple times. Have had the sled in the heated shop since. I have not tested to see if the heat and dry air has cured the issues withe the fueling box. I know some are saying silicone the box but I also read that Dobec says the boxes are H20 proof .

 

[06-800RR]

Pull the hose off the solenoid that runs to the controller and start the sled?
See what the box has for lights at this point.

Pull the hose off or pinch it what's the difference? When pinched it definitely is off. (just green flashing after startup sequence)

That solenoid is behind the oil tank and under the hood, not happening unless you're in the garage and then it doesn't happen. :0

 

[R_8_N]

This dobek box reminds me of the OLD Nintendo.....when it wouldnt work ya pulled out the cartridge and blew on it. Pretty much the same fix.... All joking aside there has been many people blow up there sleds with this blue light flashing at idle so I dont think its something to take real lightly.

 

[Jeff K]

The box opens the solenoid on startup for a few seconds to calibrate the sensor to the current atmospheric pressure. By pulling the hose off, it is bypassing the solenoid to see if the solenoid is cycling properly, pinching the hose off will not help.

 

[rmk_racer]

This dobek box reminds me of the OLD Nintendo.....when it wouldnt work ya pulled out the cartridge and blew on it. Pretty much the same fix.... All joking aside there has been many people blow up there sleds with this blue light flashing at idle so I dont think its something to take real lightly.

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This!

 

[snow4shover]

So let me get this straight....you can't take your panels and/or hood off in the backcountry when the tool kit has everything your need.

Pinching the hose can actually cause a pressure increase in the line causing the controller to add fuel or turn the blue light on. It really sounds like you solenoid is not cycling.

Has the kit ever worked?

Pull the hose off or pinch it what's the difference? When pinched it definitely is off. (just green flashing after startup sequence)

That solenoid is behind the oil tank and under the hood, not happening unless you're in the garage and then it doesn't happen. :0

 

[R_8_N]

seems like a better solenoid is in order.....

 

[snow4shover]

We found another solenoid that is a lower wattage but the current solenoid only pulls (4.5 Watts / 12 Volts) = .375 amps. That is pretty low power consumption...not to mention it will only pull power from the sled for the first 5 seconds of the sled running.

You can get a toggle switch that will do the same thing but then you have to remember to flip it back and forth.

 

[06-800RR]

So let me get this straight....you can't take your panels and/or hood off in the backcountry when the tool kit has everything your need.

Pinching the hose can actually cause a pressure increase in the line causing the controller to add fuel or turn the blue light on. It really sounds like you solenoid is not cycling.

Has the kit ever worked?

Yes the kit works pretty good. This problem has happened ~4 times in 400 miles. Justin advised me to check the solenoid and lubricate it. He seemed confident in that this will correct the issue. Plus pinching the line and the turning the engine over is probably making a vacuum and forcing the solenoid to move.
And no I'm not taking the hood and panels off in the back country. I have my gauges in the hood, and cold air piping through right hand factory air intake. Don't be a prick

 

[R_8_N]

Could ya just bypass the solenoid all together and just dial it back n forth as ya go up and down or is your box designed to only work with it plugged in?

 

[Jeff K]

Yes the kit works pretty good. This problem has happened ~4 times in 400 miles. Justin advised me to check the solenoid and lubricate it. He seemed confident in that this will correct the issue. Plus pinching the line and the turning the engine over is probably making a vacuum and forcing the solenoid to move.
And no I'm not taking the hood and panels off in the back country. I have my gauges in the hood, and cold air piping through right hand factory air intake. Don't be a prick

If you want to do any troubleshooting of the solenoid you are going to need to be able to remove the line. Since the solenoid is just velcro'd to the back side of the ECM, you should be able to remove and check it without taking off the hood. snow4shover is just trying to help so cut him some slack. He is more than willing to help anyone out if you are willing to take his advise.