Install the app
How to install the app on iOS

Follow along with the video below to see how to install our site as a web app on your home screen.

Note: This feature may not be available in some browsers.

  • Don't miss out on all the fun! Register on our forums to post and have added features! Membership levels include a FREE membership tier.

engine reassembly

B

bigrodney

Member
I am reassembling a 2000.summit 700. This is a wisco piston and needle bearing. There is a lot of play on the connecting rod? Is this normal? It is an oversized piston. The needle bearing is tight it is just the connecting rod that moves side to side in the piston?
skidoosummit2000.jpg



Thanks
 
Last edited:
i'm pretty sure there's some parts missing there:confused:...there should be a pair of "cup shaped" spacers on either side of the bearing cage to hold the rod end centered over the bearing:cool here's an exploded veiw from brp parts site for the 2000 -700:D
700 rotating assembly.gif
 
Last edited:
Looks fine to me I've never done a 700 but have done alot 600 and 800's. they all have some play but that should have had cadgless needle bearings with a washers on ether side of the rod but putting in a cadged bearing you have a lot more slop in the rod but should work fine.

Get Lucky
 
not sure but i think the washers are missing . the last time i tried a caged
bearing in a 800 the needles wore into the rod.I don't think there is enough
neeedles to spread the load properly with the caged bearings.just my $.02
 
The bearings I removed where not caged. The oem ski doo bearings are uncaged with washers on the end.

No room for spacers on this caged style from wisco?

I have looked on the wisco web site but no information?
 
I agree with Concrete Mike I'd use the cageless style. I rebuilt my 98 670 summit x last January with +1mm Wisecos and I used new oem cageless needle bearings w/washers on the ends. The cageless bearings come in a pretty handy little retainer you push the wristpin through and the bearings stay while the plastic retainer falls apart. The contact area on the rod is only a fraction of that with the caged style.
 
I used the cagless in this machine with spi piston.

I just don't remember how much play with them? thanks for the input!
 
oops!durr!:o -shoulda realized when i said "bearing cage" that i was talking out my a$$-lol:D i agree with 4paws suggestion
 
Just talk to anther mechanic that I work with. He said as long as the rod covers the needles of the needle bearing than it is right but he also said that there is two washers that are the same diameter as the needle bearings witch the rod will slip over, but will not ride on once the assembled because the crank will hold it in the center of the piston. Just what I found out.
 
your fine!!!!

the connecting rod is centered by the crank
from there the cylinder will center the piston
when assembled the connecting rod and piston
become "one" the only move ment allowed is the rotation
you want
when assembled if you could "twist " the piston opposit the wrist pin a
you would have issues even with the "uncaged" bearings you would have some of the needles visible on either side of the connecting rod end
once it is in the piston and clips are seated
make sure you measured your end gaps on the rings in the cylinder before
you run this many wiesco rings have to be trimmed to
meet clearances:beer;:)
 
I am in the same boat as you man but i believe it centers up when you put you cylinders back on. But im not sure but im gonna try mine the way it is. I used the wiseco kit and stock sized wiseco pistons. Ill let you guys know what happens
 
Pic is stock cageless bearing vs. aftermarket caged bearings which will be fine, as stated a few times above.
Putting my 840HO motor back together this pm, has caged bearings.
 
Premium Features



Back
Top