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Enclosed Trailer Rear View Camera Install Guide

X
Oct 4, 2010
55
26
18
Mad Town,WI
Rear View Camera Install
A fully enclosed trailer is great for the winter months for two primary reasons:
1) It keeps salt off the sleds!​
2) You don’t have to fight all the frustrating hooks on canvas snowmobile covers!​

My dad and I are fortunate to have use of a 20’ long, 102 “wide fully enclosed, V-nose, Avenger trailer for storage and transport of our snowmobiles. One of the only issues with such a trailer is the limited visibility directly behind the trailer, when towing. As a result, switching lanes on the Interstate hauls can be a bit trickier then with open trailers. To resolve this problem I decided to install a vehicle and trailer camera system. The upgrade consisted of one camera for the hitch primarily to be used while backing up the 2001 Chevy Suburban, tow vehicle. Another camera was mounted on the rear of the enclosed trailer, above the loading door. Due to the occasional harsh Wisconsin winters, I had to be cognizant of the minimum temperate ratings of the cameras. Because of this, I eventually decided to use the XO camera. There are wireless cam kits available on the market but the reviews on these systems were not all that impressive. As a result I decided to install a wired system.
A couple of different options were available for the LCD monitor.
1) Mirror Mount
2) Dash Mount w/ GPS holder
3) Custom mount.​
DSC01480.jpg

I decided to go with a 7” LCD Mirror Mount since I can’t use the mirror anyways while driving. The LCD Mirror also has a reflective finish which allows it to function as a mirror when turned off. The LCD Mirror can also be easily removed if desired. The monitor contains 2 video inputs and can be wired to automatically switch to the hitch camera, when the vehicle is shifted to reverse. I decided not to use this feature because I preferred to keep the trailer cam active when backing up the enclosed trailer.

I then had to decide on the connections from the trailer camera to the Suburban. I initially had no idea where to start or what to use for this, nor could I find any documentation via any message forums. This is the main reason for this document. My final goal was to fabricate a custom mount that wouldn’t look sloppy, and was waterproof. I did find a Fifth Wheel/Quick Trailer Disconnect package deal on Amazon but it was $120. Eventually, I discovered a trailer website that had exactly what I was looking for. All the connections and sources are listed below. The pictures should explain it. I welded a plate and mounted the Suburban connector to that. I used a 4-pole connector (only using 2 for install) so additional connections could be added if desired. This procedure yielded favorable results. This same assembly could also be installed to the bumper.
DSC01471.jpg

I think it turned out very well. You can easily backup the Suburban to the trailer hitch and get it right the first time. You can also see behind the trailer very well while towing. I’m still waiting for winter to test the cameras during cold conditions. The night vision feature works great and provides good resolution with minimal lighting.


Supplies

1
- (1) $83- Pyle PLCM7200 7” Mirror Monitor with Rear-view Night Vision Camera- Amazon.com: PYLE PLCM7200 7-Inch TFT Mirror Monitor with Rear-View Night Vision Camera: Electronics
2- (1) $30- XO Vision HTC35 Camera- Amazon.com: XO Vision HTC35 Universal Weatherproof Vehicle Backup Camera with Easy Installation and NightVision: Electronics
3- (1) $7- 12VDC STST Automotive Relay - 12VDC/30A SPST Automotive Relay - RadioShack.com
4- (1)$5.25 - Pollak Heavy-Duty, 4-Pole, Round Pin Trailer Wiring Connector - Chrome - Trailer End-http://www.etrailer.com/Wiring/Pollak/PK11409.html
5- (1)$6.50 - Pollak Heavy-Duty, 4-Pole, Round Pin Socket, Concealed Terminals - Chrome - Vehicle End- Pollak Heavy-Duty, 4-Pole, Round Pin Socket, Concealed Terminals - Chrome - Vehicle End Pollak PK11410
6- (4-5ft) $4.45 - Jacketed 2 Wire, 10 Gauge, Brake Wire - per Foot (From trailer to Vehicle End)- Jacketed 2 Wire, 10 Gauge, Brake Wire - per Foot Spectro Accessories and Parts 10-2-1
7- (2) $10 - NXG® 16.58-Ft. Basix Series Shielded Composite Video Cable- NXG 16.58-Ft. Basix Series Shielded Composite Video Cable : Composite cables | RadioShack.com
8- (2) $4- Dayton RCAAD-FF RCA Female To RCA Female Adapter-http://www.parts-express.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?Partnumber=091-1030
9- Misc Tools (Drill, Automotive Panel Remover, Wire Nuts, Heatshrink, Silicone, Wire Stripper, Pliers, Multimeter (helps to check power & ground, useful for troubleshooting)
Total $ Spent = $175 with shipping​




Installation
The instructions for them were very vague. I read that in the reviews of the products on Amazon. For me the project wasn’t too bad. The LCD mirror has one main cord to it. This can be disconnected for removal. I hope the pictures help.

Suburban Wiring
Panels had to be taken off for access to the wiring. The wiring for the camera was done underneath the driver side kick panels. (See picture)
DSC01469.jpg
LCD Mirror Connections
The cord that is connected to that has couple main wires.
1-(+)12VDC (Power)
1-Grd(Chassis)
2-Video Inputs
1-Reverse Wire (Didn’t use)​
I wanted the video camera to turn on & off when the vehicle did. I didn’t want to manually turn it off & on. To do this a relay was required. I have information on the relay below. Go to Car Alarm & Relay Info for a lot of information on vehicle specifics and relays.
Floor Panels
Running wires from camera to back of vehicle (2 video, 1 wire for 12VDC power for hitch camera)
Ran from underneath panels to hide wires
Side Panel by Front Window
I ran the monitor cables into where the cabin ceiling meets the trim. Then down the driver’s side panel by front window (see picture).
DSC01468.jpg

Mounting & Wiring Cameras
The camera’s wires
1. Video Cord (yellow video wire)
1. Grd (Chassis)
1. +12VDC (power)​

Suburban
The hitch camera is easily mounted. Take the top 2 screws off of license plate. I then ran the wires into the cab to be run up to the LCD. You can connect the (1) video wire and 12VDC power. I ran the ground wire from the camera to a chassis bolt(less wire to run all the way up).
DSC01479-new.jpg
Enclosed Trailer
The XO camera was mounted above the door. This height makes viewing angle excellent. Use the camera mounting ring as a template to draw a circle at the desired camera location. Then drill a bunch of small holes around the perimeter, punch out the center, and file the edges smooth. I used silicone to seal off the gaps. There was 12volts DC power and ground connections located in the back of the trailer already. I hooked these up to the camera. I then had to run the video wire from the back of the trailer to the front. My dad ran them under the trailer. You could also run them in the trailer (side panels, ceiling, or floor). I had to use extra video wire and connections because of the length of the trailer. Once the wire was near the front, I connected the video wire into the 2 conductor insulated line. This is very well insulated. I then wired that to the Pollak 4-pole connector.
DSC01474-new.jpgDSC01484-new.jpgDSC01473.jpg

DSC01483-new.jpgDSC01475.jpg
Application Notes
Car Alarm & Relay Info
Using a 30 amp SPDT relay, connect terminal #87 to constant fused 12 VDC. Connect terminal #85 to ground (chassis). You now need to find your accessory wire. This is the wire that turns on your ac/heat and radio controls when the vehicle is on. This can be found in couple different spots-fuse panel, back of radio, or off the key ignition switch. Connect this wire to terminal #86 (remote turn on lead). Now connect terminal #30 (fans in diagram) to each camera. This will turn the camera off & on with the key.
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94fordguy

Well-known member
Staff member
Lifetime Membership
Nov 26, 2007
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Yakima, Wa.
VERY nice write up... definitely would be a nice addition for anyone pulling an enclosed trailer.

:beer;:beer;
 
R

RMK SeVeN

Active member
Nov 27, 2007
383
28
28
Fairbanks, AK
Looks like a clean install.

Report back on how the camera works on the back of the trailer and if you get alot of road crap and snow built up on it.

We have this similar setup on the rear of the fire engines at work. They sure are handy when they aren't covered in snow and crap. But it doesn't take much to get them gunked up.
 
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