Wanted to start a thread to explore the effects of adjusting snowbike ride height; pros and cons. Seems more riders are making efforts to adjust ride height outside the norm (typically lower) and some interesting information is coming of it. Curious about not only the benefits of such changes, but also the negative effects; minor or not. Thought it would be helpful for those making these changes to share what they found for the benefit of the masses. Some people like to experiment and tinker...Some of us just like to hear their stories. Ha.
All kits have the ability to make some adjustments to find the sweet spot for track contact patch (which effects ski pressure and handling dramatically). Strut lengths are adjustable to set the angle of the track to reach that sweet spot. That is typically with the front of the track contacting before the rear of the track. Meaning, rear track rails are slightly further from the ground than the front of the track rails. Once the sweet spot/angle is found, some folks wank to adjust the overall bike height. That is usually lowering it by moving fork tubes higher in the triple clamp or fork internals are modified to have lower ride height. This then requires the strut length to be adjusted again to correct the bike-to-track angle and get the track contact patch/ski pressure back to the sweet spot. In more radical cases of lowering the front of the bike, the adjustability of the snowbike strut is surpassed. Some have machined parts to allow additional adjustment. Some snowbike kits, such as Yeti, also give the user three tunnel mounting positions for the track and suspension allowing further tailoring (higher or lower than stock).
While keeping the same contact patch/ski pressure/bike-to-kit angle (the sweet spot) the same, there are a couple obvious benefits to a lower bike height such as lower center of gravity and easier/lower seat height. Possible cons include a lower ride height causing more drag in deep snow, hard carving or steep sidehills (considering not only the engine/skidplate are lower but footpegs and feet/shins are dragging deeper in the snow which can add a fair bit of resistance in deep snow or clearance issues on steep sidehills). Also, lower skidplate height and footpeg height may mean more contact with hidden obstacles (stumps and rocks) with not only the bike, but with your feet. Ouch. Sleds keep going taller and taller for various reasons such as less paneling on steep sidehills and less body contacting snow in the deep. Different designs, but perhaps share some the the effects of chassis being higher or lower compared to ski and track.
On dirtbikes and dual sports, I have never minded the towering seat heights and focused on standing and keeping my feet on the pegs in challenging terrain rather than sitting and dabbing my feet. Over the last 6 or 7 years of snowbiking, unlike when I ride snowmobiles, I tend to sit rather than stand for the majority of terrain so this fact, and several riders in this forum mentioning their adjusting ride height, has me thinking about the subject.
It is likely the weight of each pro and each con will depend on personal riding style, snow depths, snow consistency, etc. so most interested in discussions about the mechanics and physics of raising or lowering snowbike ride height, but also interested in the how to, why you chose to do it, what you expected before doing it, if the results were what you expected, any surprise discoveries you had not expected (good or bad), etc.
All kits have the ability to make some adjustments to find the sweet spot for track contact patch (which effects ski pressure and handling dramatically). Strut lengths are adjustable to set the angle of the track to reach that sweet spot. That is typically with the front of the track contacting before the rear of the track. Meaning, rear track rails are slightly further from the ground than the front of the track rails. Once the sweet spot/angle is found, some folks wank to adjust the overall bike height. That is usually lowering it by moving fork tubes higher in the triple clamp or fork internals are modified to have lower ride height. This then requires the strut length to be adjusted again to correct the bike-to-track angle and get the track contact patch/ski pressure back to the sweet spot. In more radical cases of lowering the front of the bike, the adjustability of the snowbike strut is surpassed. Some have machined parts to allow additional adjustment. Some snowbike kits, such as Yeti, also give the user three tunnel mounting positions for the track and suspension allowing further tailoring (higher or lower than stock).
While keeping the same contact patch/ski pressure/bike-to-kit angle (the sweet spot) the same, there are a couple obvious benefits to a lower bike height such as lower center of gravity and easier/lower seat height. Possible cons include a lower ride height causing more drag in deep snow, hard carving or steep sidehills (considering not only the engine/skidplate are lower but footpegs and feet/shins are dragging deeper in the snow which can add a fair bit of resistance in deep snow or clearance issues on steep sidehills). Also, lower skidplate height and footpeg height may mean more contact with hidden obstacles (stumps and rocks) with not only the bike, but with your feet. Ouch. Sleds keep going taller and taller for various reasons such as less paneling on steep sidehills and less body contacting snow in the deep. Different designs, but perhaps share some the the effects of chassis being higher or lower compared to ski and track.
On dirtbikes and dual sports, I have never minded the towering seat heights and focused on standing and keeping my feet on the pegs in challenging terrain rather than sitting and dabbing my feet. Over the last 6 or 7 years of snowbiking, unlike when I ride snowmobiles, I tend to sit rather than stand for the majority of terrain so this fact, and several riders in this forum mentioning their adjusting ride height, has me thinking about the subject.
It is likely the weight of each pro and each con will depend on personal riding style, snow depths, snow consistency, etc. so most interested in discussions about the mechanics and physics of raising or lowering snowbike ride height, but also interested in the how to, why you chose to do it, what you expected before doing it, if the results were what you expected, any surprise discoveries you had not expected (good or bad), etc.
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