Does a 16" track fit in the stock tunnel?????
- Thread starter 8UPRACING
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R
RKT
Well-known member
Yes, it fits fine.. You have to grind down one of the bolts that hold the chaincase or it will rub on the track..
Get the 16" it makes a nice difference inthe steep and deep..
DO NOT get anything over a 2" paddle unless you have a drop and roll or you will lose performance.. STAY with the 2"!!!!
Kelsey
S
stumpy2000
Member
i believe the early build rev's had an extra piece for relocating the "problem" bolt-it's an L shaped mount that is secured by a short bolt to the ear on the c-case and shifts the "through bolt" to a point outside the arc of the track.
ps-another spot to watch is between the stiffening ribs on the rear suspension brackets
ps-another spot to watch is between the stiffening ribs on the rear suspension bracketsI put a 16 wide under my 01 Summit 700 without doing a thing to it. I didn't have to grind any bolts off or anything and nothing is rubbing on the track... Maybe I just got lucky? Just thought I'd help you save a little time too just in case you don't have to grind that bolt at all either.
L
LRD
Well-known member
I cut a piece of wood or plastic pipe, whatever to 16" and run it through the tunnel where the track runs to look for rivets or bolts sticking out to far. I also replace the hex head bolts with washers holding the rear bumper with button head allen bolts with no washers (be sure to put antiseize on them as they can get tight with corrosion and not much for the allen wrench to grab, this from experience).
Good Luck
PS Drivers have to be placed perfect on drive shaft and skid has to be square to tunnel and driveshaft, just a little off will cause a problem.
Good Luck
PS Drivers have to be placed perfect on drive shaft and skid has to be square to tunnel and driveshaft, just a little off will cause a problem.
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R
RKT
Well-known member
The ZX chassis does not respond well to tracks with larger than 2" paddles.. They simply lose performance..
This has a lot to do with the under tunnel turbulence..
If you drop and roll it, then you get the gains from the larger track. But without the drop and roll... the taller lugs actually rob major track speed...
Kelsey
S
stumpy2000
Member
mostly -cause they only have 1/4 -3/8" clearance to start with
L
LB_
New member
mostly -cause they only have 1/4 -3/8" clearance to start with
That, makes sense to me.
M
Motley Doo
Well-known member
Who still makes a D&R for the older zx's? kind of towards the top of my "to-do" list.
R
RKT
Well-known member
The 06 and 07 Summit have 2.25" tracks.. So, they would be better with the drop and roll ..
Vanamburg Ent. would be the best to contact for the drop and roll kits.. Specialty Sleds in Edmonton also has them (I think)
Kelsey
M
mannix
ACCOUNT CLOSED
Really? Not arguing, but asking. I've got a bone-stock 03 700, planning on putting a 16" wide track on this fall.
How much weight is removed with the above 3 things? 8+8+8? 24#?
I'd have thought that extra track/flotation would, umm, "outweigh" 24# (and it seems to me that 24# is pretty optimistic).
I'd just have thought the track would be the best, then hood/seat/can, but that's uneducated.
Hood - taking weight off the front helps get the sled up and out faster?
Dunno. I have a tough time justifying $400 for the seat (the Boss seats are certainly nice, but owww, $400? Ouch. The stock seat just does not seem that BAD to me).
Interesting thread, and very relevant. I was planning on selling my 99 670x this fall, taking that money +$$$$ and buying a Rev/XP, but after thinking about it, my 700 does MOST of what I want it to very well - and adding a wider track/making it a bit lighter seems like it'd make me VERY happy with it (instead of just "really happy" with it?), and that's bunches (!!!!) cheaper...
...but if the hood/can/seat really make that much difference, I'll do it!
Iain
K
Kawi
New member
Wrong! The first thing is to replace the skis! That is the number one best thing to do to a ZX!
M
mannix
ACCOUNT CLOSED
W
Wade
Well-known member
Yha, I ran Simmons on mine also, the only thing that would keep the nose from diving. loved them also.
I forget the exact weights, but a lightweight hood only weighs about 7 pounds, a lightweight seat only weighted around about 5 pounds. I made mine, so they only cost me a $200 together. and it made a world of difference. The nose of the sled felt like it was 10 times lighter, and you could throw the sled over on it's side. I think the stock hood weights almost 30 pounds, and the seat weights like 15 pounds.
So, cost wise, I think the seat and hood, where the easiest for me. I have seen ZX boss seats cheap, used.
The can is a easy must, you can find a used one cheap. My sled came with one.
The track was a $400 change, and did make the sled much better.
The Simmons where about $500, with mounting hardware, and keep it from diving. I'm sure you can find some used ones.
So, my list was cost driven, based on my abilities.
Of course, the best thing, is to find someone selling a sled with all this stuff already installed, and giving away the add-ons, as part of the sled.
I forget the exact weights, but a lightweight hood only weighs about 7 pounds, a lightweight seat only weighted around about 5 pounds. I made mine, so they only cost me a $200 together. and it made a world of difference. The nose of the sled felt like it was 10 times lighter, and you could throw the sled over on it's side. I think the stock hood weights almost 30 pounds, and the seat weights like 15 pounds.
So, cost wise, I think the seat and hood, where the easiest for me. I have seen ZX boss seats cheap, used.
The can is a easy must, you can find a used one cheap. My sled came with one.
The track was a $400 change, and did make the sled much better.
The Simmons where about $500, with mounting hardware, and keep it from diving. I'm sure you can find some used ones.
So, my list was cost driven, based on my abilities.
Of course, the best thing, is to find someone selling a sled with all this stuff already installed, and giving away the add-ons, as part of the sled.
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