compression release on 02 800RMK
- Thread starter millerwd
- Start date
Like you, many people didn't like how tough they can be to pull over cold. So, in 2003 Polaris came out with a new cylinder for these motors with decompression holes that bleed off compression so they're a little easier to start. The old cylinders have the last 3 cast #s of 202, while the newer cylinders w/ the decomp holes have the last 3 cast #s of 339. The same motor, same clutching, same snow will pull a few extra rpms with the old cylinders, meaning they make a bit more power (I think SLP says its 2hp?).
I can't say if the new cylinders actually make it much easier to pull over though, I rebuilt my 04 with the #202 cylinders.
I can't say if the new cylinders actually make it much easier to pull over though, I rebuilt my 04 with the #202 cylinders.
S
shawkins
Well-known member
The Decompression hole is not the problem. I have all of mine plugged off to gain HP. There is a reason SLP lists plugging them off in their services available section. The 02 motor is the only one to not have them. The reason it is hard to pull over when cold is the oil film. Park it inside! It will pull over great.
Care to elaborate? Just not sure what you mean here.
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Thatspec
Member
I've read in several posts here that applying full choke for a few seconds on shut down will thin the residual oil with fuel. Doesn't make sense to me as doesn't the choke just restrict airflow? Could be it's un-combusted fuel doing the thinning? Can't say that it's helped consistently.
Today I sprained my thumb and seem to have pulled my left tricep from a cold start
Today I sprained my thumb and seem to have pulled my left tricep from a cold start
I've read in several posts here that applying full choke for a few seconds on shut down will thin the residual oil with fuel. Doesn't make sense to me as doesn't the choke just restrict airflow? Could be it's un-combusted fuel doing the thinning? Can't say that it's helped consistently.
Today I sprained my thumb and seem to have pulled my left tricep from a cold start
The "choke" is actually just pulling up the fuel enrichment rods on the carbs. So the term "drown" instead of choke might actually make more sense. Are you all at super low altitude or something? These motors aren't that tough to spin over.
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Thatspec
Member
So the choke on an edge increases gas flow, doesn't just restrict airflow? That should be helping my cold starts. Something is up as I'm 6'3 200+ and was a piano/safe/large appliance mover not so long ago. If It's hard for me, something is going to break As mentioned, mine's an '02 and it's ok to pull cold, a little stiff. It's when I go to restart 1 to 1 1/2 hours after a days riding, when I want to unload. Thats when it's really hard. It's easy enough If I shut down for 15 minutes. Top end is pretty new still, maybe 250 miles.
Any theories on this?
As mentioned, mine's an '02 and it's ok to pull cold, a little stiff. It's when I go to restart 1 to 1 1/2 hours after a days riding, when I want to unload. Thats when it's really hard. It's easy enough If I shut down for 15 minutes. Top end is pretty new still, maybe 250 miles.Any theories on this?
X
X2Freeride
Well-known member
Not a good idea to use starting fluid to start a 2 stroke engine. May result in cold seize.
The choke on the MIKUNI RACK Carbs has a brass piston, which when raised up allows additional fuel to flow into the engine.So the choke on an edge increases gas flow, doesn't just restrict airflow? That should be helping my cold starts. Something is up as I'm 6'3 200+ and was a piano/safe/large appliance mover not so long ago. If It's hard for me, something is going to break
Any theories on this?
Using the choke to shut-off the sled the night before washes/dilutes the oil film on the cylinder wall which helps in cold weather starting the following morning.
If you're not already running synthetic oil, do that as well as it also helps compared to mineral oil.
Hope this helps
1
1010kingcat
Member
cylinders
so what if your running one with and one with out compression holes on the motor at the same time if they would hurt anything i picked up a iqr sled with a 02 800 motor has the big bearings in it and last ride dropped a aluminum power valve on me while riding and started to look at the cylinders and noticed one with compresion holes the other does not also need power vlaves if any one has a spare set
so what if your running one with and one with out compression holes on the motor at the same time if they would hurt anything i picked up a iqr sled with a 02 800 motor has the big bearings in it and last ride dropped a aluminum power valve on me while riding and started to look at the cylinders and noticed one with compresion holes the other does not also need power vlaves if any one has a spare set
Surely you're joking. Isn't it remotely possible the correct amount aids in starting? This isn't a John Deere, you don't spray for 3 seconds.
Of course starting fluid aids in starting your sled, its a highly combustible fluid. But it should not be needed. Get your carbs clean and adjusted properly for your altitude, good plugs, and it should start within 4 or 5 pulls in any conditions. Unless mine is flooded, its never more than 3 pulls. I suppose if you have bad shoulders or something, you may want to look into e-start, but if you're a healthy individual they really are not that bad to get going if properly setup.
They tend to rev up pretty high when started on this stuff, high rpm on a cold motor isn't ideal (not as bad as high rev & high load though).
The ether is also a solvent for the 2 stroke oil, so it could (and you'd probably have to be using alot of ether) wash the cylinders clean of any lubrication, damaging rings/pistons/cylinders.
They tend to rev up pretty high when started on this stuff, high rpm on a cold motor isn't ideal (not as bad as high rev & high load though).
The ether is also a solvent for the 2 stroke oil, so it could (and you'd probably have to be using alot of ether) wash the cylinders clean of any lubrication, damaging rings/pistons/cylinders.
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