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Code P3000

Goinboardin

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Sunday I was riding in some low snow conditions on my way up to the higher zones. It was warm out, with saturated/weak snowpack. I got stuck often enough (thin snowpack over lots of deadfall) that the sled was getting plenty of cool down breaks. I rolled it out maybe 6 times. Later in the day, a few times when starting the sled to get going again, it would run rough and display P3000 on the gauge. A couple times felt & sounded like it was running on one cylinder. Blipping the throttle would clear up the rough running. If I shut it off and restarted it, the code was gone. Whether the code was active or not, the sled had a hesitation or sometimes a full on bog around 5000 RPM that it normally does not have. Once passed that RPM, it ran completely normally, taching at 8150 RPM at WOT and pulling hard.

I can't find much on this code. Came across one old thread on Arctic Chat about a Ctec 6000 having that code but no clear resolution was posted. Based on how wet the snow was when I was rolling out of stucks, I figured its probably water related.

This is on a 2018 Mtn Cat, about 1600 miles. New primary clutch and belt, stock clutching other than 68g weights. Just had the secondary off to clean/inspect, all good there. New plugs at 1200 miles. Updated upper intake & entire intake very well sealed. Has the Silber NA tune and a Bikeman Y-pipe. Stock muffler and pipe. TSS unplugged in the throttle block (maybe where water got in & caused trouble?).

Any ideas?
 

Goinboardin

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After leaving the sled on the flatbed in the sun all week, just pulled it in the garage today. Started it, all good. Checked a good number of wire connectors and all looked good. Ecm connections were sealed and dry. Throttle block looked fine. Only suspect thing I found was a loose ground wire near the chaincase. Tightened it up and put everything back together. Will ride Saturday, hopefully it was just a loose ground. IMG_20200313_001007.jpg
 

summ8rmk

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I got that code today. Sled running on one cylinder. Eventually code p0261would also flash.
I bet p3000 goes away when i fix the injector wire...

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summ8rmk

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Not sure what code P3000 is for but it went away when i fixed the injector wire..
P0261 is the code for the wire, not sure why P3000 comes on also.
We need a cat programmer to explain that.

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Goinboardin

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Thanks for posting. I'll check my injector harness carefully.

Didn't end up riding today, but headed out tomorrow.

I was told there was an update for the '18 injector harness routing, and found a kit for it, part number 0637-515. I'll order that and get it installed. Sounds like this was a known issue (at least known to Cat).
 

summ8rmk

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Mine break at the connector.
Can't see the break while in the sled. Unplug the injector harness connector and check the ohms at the pins. Should be around 13 for each injector.
To see the broken wire u have to remove the fuel rail and injectors.

I can pull the harness, solder wire and reinstall in ~1 hr.

d17534fede412dda101b92aedab840eb.jpg


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summ8rmk

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Sounds like a regular occurrence?

This is really helpful, thanks.
PTO (green wires) broke at ~1,300 mi. MAG (yellow wires) broke 2 rides later. (I should have pulled the loom off of the mag injector and thoroughly inspected when i fixed it the first time).
Cat wants $100 for 18" of wire with 3 connectors.... part #1686-663.
Total cost of material when bought in bulk isn't $5....

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Goinboardin

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Measured 11.8 ohms across injector pins at the main plug up near the apv valve servo. Found water in that connection.

Riding Sunday it felt pretty weak. I pulled plugs on the hill and thought they were lean so I didn't push the sled hard at all. Y pipe looks like I've been running leaded fuel (I haven't).
IMG_20200317_133329_01.jpg
IMG_20200317_133410_01.jpg

Pulling injectors next to inspect the wiring at the connector.
 

Goinboardin

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The wires themselves looked pretty good. But mag side the clip retainer/lock to hold the wire plug onto the injector was half set. That connection had clearly been sketchy for a little while. Hoping that was it. I cleaned it up, plugged it in with the lock fully seated, then connected a multimeter at the other end of the harness. Set to continuity with noise indicator, and then wiggled the connection at the injector with no loss of continuity.
IMG_20200317_155938.jpg
PTO side was clean, clearly a solid connection.
IMG_20200317_155947.jpg
Mag side was no good.

My guess is the previous owner was doing something in here and didn't get the lock seated. Who knows though, maybe it's been this way a long time and it just finally wore out the contacts enough to cause an issue.
 

Goinboardin

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After getting it all back together it seems to idle smooth again up at 1750-1800rpm and it felt snappy loading it onto the flatbed. Sunday the engine was bouncing all around, idling a few hundred rpm low. After one brief wot pull it idled down to 850rpm. So, I'm cautiously optimistic that it's repaired. Good thing it's fun, cause it's seems to have plenty of issues.

And I have to say, 1 hour to fix the wiring? I'm impressed. Sure isn't much space to get at the injector!
 

summ8rmk

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Haha, it was 1hr from the time i pulled the first side panel off to the time i put the screw back into the hood.

Pto injector is not easy to put back in, especially with the harness zip tied to the fuel rail. It would help if u could see what u are doing.

I read the 2020+ are much easier to access the injectors.

I never had the low idle u have experienced, even when running on one cylinder, it idled at ~1,700.

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Goinboardin

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Rode today, sled was back to its normal self pulling hard and idling correctly. Injector harness was definitely a problem. Felt good to have it back!

But, near the end of the day it started running strange at wot, felt a little like a rev limiter, and not full power, only hitting 7700-7800 rpm. This was up a mild slope with ~10" fresh. Ended the day on that. On the trail ride out, it felt normal again (low load), hitting peak rpm. Will be checking compression and clutch springs tomorrow.
 
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