• Don't miss out on all the fun! Register on our forums to post and have added features! Membership levels include a FREE membership tier.

Clutch alignment

S

snowcannon

Member
Aug 20, 2015
111
11
18
Shuswap, BC
I recently did a clutch alignment on my 2014 m8000 with the bar and have doubts whether I went too far. If I remember correctly, initially the bar was hitting/resting on the radius transition from fixed primary sheave to primary shaft. See attached picture (I found it online). You have to zoom in to see it. So I added another shim behind the secondary. After that the bar was nicely resting on the primary shaft. But now if I want to compress the secondary (for a belt change e.g.), I take off the flat washer and lock washer, turn around the secondary "cap", insert the secondary bolt, and it's too short...! That single shim I added pushed the whole secondary clutch assembly far enough out that the bolt can't catch the threads in the shaft. I'm thinking that is not right. Is it ok if the alignment bar hits the radius on the primary shaft? Is that close enough for alignment? I haven't blown any belts before the alignment for what it's worth...
77bc34ffd0b846e07fa37781cf0ff0a3.jpg


Sent from my SM-G950W using Tapatalk
 

Super 8

Well-known member
Lifetime Membership
Feb 2, 2012
395
498
63
Which alignment bar are you using? You need 0644-428 which has a 1.485 offset.
 

kanedog

Undefeated mountain clutching champ of the world.
Lifetime Membership
Oct 14, 2008
3,107
3,863
113
60
What are the measurements of your alignment bar?
 
J
Jan 7, 2017
56
4
8
I am confused, you are talking about spacing Secondary , But you are showing a spider shim which I don't think you changed. No one shim should not allow you not to engage the secondary bolt.
 
S

snowcannon

Member
Aug 20, 2015
111
11
18
Shuswap, BC
I am confused, you are talking about spacing Secondary , But you are showing a spider shim which I don't think you changed. No one shim should not allow you not to engage the secondary bolt.
You are right. My question wasn't very clear.
I found the picture online. Somebody had posted it back in 2006 with a question about shimming a primary spider. I just used because it shows the profile of fixed sheave and shaft (primary) quite nicely.
My question is, does the alignment bar have to touch the flat section of the shaft?
Or is it ok for it to touch the (small) radius where shaft and sheave meet? You have to zoom in to see the radius.
Initially I was able to remove the belt by compressing the secondary which requires you to flip around the stepped secondary cap and threading the bolt back in. But the alignment bar was touching/hitting the small radius on the primary. So I added another shim behind the secondary to push it out a bit. Now the bar touches the straight part of the primary shaft.
But, now I can't compress the secondary anymore because the bolt doesn't catch the threads. I even got a new bolt.

Sent from my SM-G950W using Tapatalk
 
J
Jan 7, 2017
56
4
8
If I understand you right, I have the bar rest on the flat. If the bolt doesn't reach it seems like you really have your clutch shimmed out far. You could get a longer bolt to use as the removal bolt.
 

IDspud

Well-known member
Lifetime Membership
Premium Member
Nov 26, 2007
2,601
3,971
113
Oakley, ID
My guess is you have one shim too many, especially if secondary no longer floats.

You can adjust your deflection too far and it will push towards end of shaft far enough the bolt won’t grab threads. You may need to adjust deflection and pull shim to get bolt and alignment to jive.

Also possible mag side motor mount could be letting motor twist right, pushing primary left of square, or towards outside of secondary.
 

kanedog

Undefeated mountain clutching champ of the world.
Lifetime Membership
Oct 14, 2008
3,107
3,863
113
60
I recommend to remove the clutch guard and use the ol’ eyeball. I find it easier and more enjoyable. A stand or lift the rear is required for the above clutch alignment strategy.
 
Premium Features