clarification on clickers

[kcj1317]

My first sled just arrived at the dealer. I will be riding in 2 different places primarily with different altitudes. It is my understanding that SkiDoos in the past came with a clicker type system from the factory. A way to easily adjust for alt. without opening the clutch. Now I've heard that no, this quick type adjustment system needs to be added. Can somebody please advise? Thanks.


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[Bocephus]

what are your two primary elevations?

 

[kcj1317]

SE Idaho so approx 7 to 9ish I'm guessing and WA so 3 to 5.


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[Matte Murder]

Biggest thing is to get your clutching dialed for the elevation you ride at most and you will have to have 2 different set ups if you want to have optimum RPM. There are 6 settings on the bolts(stock) or quick clickers(after market). "They" say that a "click", say going from 4-5 is 200rpm but I have never seen that much. 2-3 clicks gets me about 300 to at most 400 rpm adjustment. You are going to have to have 2 basic set ups riding those 2 elevations and adjust for snow conditions and elevation changes from the top to the bottom of each of those areas.

 

[kcj1317]

I've been told that in Idaho I would prob be on 3 or 4 and in WA 1 to 2. But my question is does the stock clutch come with this quick change type of system or must I buy after market to keep it simple.
Matte, when you say 2 diff setups do you mean inside the clutch or just changing the clickers? Not the most mechanical guy in the world so trying to do what I can to keep it simple. I can see my knowledge growing however lol.


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[storm trooper]

No you don't need the aftermarket quick clickers. The stock adjustment bolt is pretty quick in itself. Just need to loosen a nut, adjust, and retighten. The quick clicker is just an add on that you can do without loosening the nuts.

 

[Diamond8]

To answer your original question..........yes your new sled comes with a "clicker" adjustment on the primary clutch. It consists of 3 bolts that are marked on the head with numbers. Your primary is marked with a hash mark pointing at the head of each of these bolts. Whichever number the hash mark is pointing to this is the "clicker" setting you are currently at. It is important for you to make sure that ALL THREE BOLTS are on the same clicker setting. If they are not all pointing at the same number your primary can come apart or get severely damaged.

Loosening the nut on the bolt and turning the head one way or the other would either go up or down ie clicker up or down. Each number is supposed to be 200 rpms up or down but like stated earlier it depends.......and you won't always see 200 rpms of change for a one-position-move of your clickers on the three primary bolts. Hope this helps.........you don't have to buy this feature it comes on your sled. Depending on snow conditions........elevation......temperature you may have to play with the clickers. Easy way to look at it is that if at wide open throttle you are pulling too high of RPM ( your tach will alert you to this ) then clicker down to get to 7900 rpms.........if you aren't pulling enough rpm at wide open then clicker up to get to the 7900 recommended optimum.

Sorry for the long read..........just trying to help you out man. Enjoy your new sled they rock and have a fun and safe winter ahead!!

Dave

My first sled just arrived at the dealer. I will be riding in 2 different places primarily with different altitudes. It is my understanding that SkiDoos in the past came with a clicker type system from the factory. A way to easily adjust for alt. without opening the clutch. Now I've heard that no, this quick type adjustment system needs to be added. Can somebody please advise? Thanks.


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[kcj1317]

Thanks for your reply and not too long at all. I had seen the YouTube video about the three bolts and that is easy enough. Will look into the aftermarket thing but really don't see the need now that I understand better.

Thanks everybody, much appreciated.


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[Bocephus]

this is a basic video showing the operation of the clutch, and what the clicker actually does. the function of the clicker is the same whether you use the OEM clicker adjustment setup (where you loosen the nut) OR if you have the aftermarket quick adjustment clicker setup. if you look at how the clicker bolt is mounted, you can see the center of it is "offset". thus, when you turn the head of the bolt, it acts as a "cam" setup moving the ramp in or out

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jtKUdGL7K8s


here is a video of the adjustment with quicker clickers installed http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QuLWQB2YZRA

 

[backcountryislife]

FYI, quick clickers are about $26 shipped to your door. For someone riding at different elevations... it's $26 very well spent. I go from riding 9-11, to riding 11 to 13+, even that is worth being able to change quick for where I'm at.

 

[kcj1317]

FYI, quick clickers are about $26 shipped to your door. For someone riding at different elevations... it's $26 very well spent. I go from riding 9-11, to riding 11 to 13+, even that is worth being able to change quick for where I'm at.

Thanks, good to know. If that cheap it beats wrenching even the 3 bolts.



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[Chubbydog]

If you use the quick clickers, make sure you use plenty of locktite.

 

[deaner]

FYI, quick clickers are about $26 shipped to your door. For someone riding at different elevations... it's $26 very well spent. I go from riding 9-11, to riding 11 to 13+, even that is worth being able to change quick for where I'm at.

Holy smokes.....where are you getting them that cheap?

 

[bnorth]

I think I paid $30 for mine at a show but if I did it again I would do the Mots Machining quick clickers instead. Don't need to carry the T-handle allen wrench with them as they have a bigger head with grips.

 

[kcj1317]

I found then for 30 at KJ Motorsports. I will check out Mots also. Thanks


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[off trail mike]

KCJ:

Like BCIL said, the quick clickers are a relatively cheap aftermarket part that will help you easily adjust during the day, but I think what Matt was getting at is that with the two elevations you want to play at, to get an "optimum" set up requires more than just a clicker change.

A lot of guys run adjustable pin weights, which allow you to make changes to the pins inside your clutch to get your 7900 RPM and then use the clickers to compensate more for snow conditions and to a lesser degree altitude. I had this very conversation with Dynamo Joe today.

I think at a minimum you should at set up for where you ride the most, and then depending how technical you want to get, make internal adjustments to get the best out of your sled.

Put it this way...clickers will get you 2/3rds of the way there, but if you want the sled to perform at altitude AND in varying snow conditions, you will need more than just clickers, thus the two setups.

OTM

 

[kcj1317]

KCJ:

Like BCIL said, the quick clickers are a relatively cheap aftermarket part that will help you easily adjust during the day, but I think what Matt was getting at is that with the two elevations you want to play at, to get an "optimum" set up requires more than just a clicker change.

A lot of guys run adjustable pin weights, which allow you to make changes to the pins inside your clutch to get your 7900 RPM and then use the clickers to compensate more for snow conditions and to a lesser degree altitude. I had this very conversation with Dynamo Joe today.

I think at a minimum you should at set up for where you ride the most, and then depending how technical you want to get, make internal adjustments to get the best out of your sled.

Put it this way...clickers will get you 2/3rds of the way there, but if you want the sled to perform at altitude AND in varying snow conditions, you will need more than just clickers, thus the two setups.

OTM

Thank you for the clarification. Guess I'll be learning to adjust clutches lol.


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[Matte Murder]

kcj the two different elevations you are riding at are too far apart that just clickers adjustments will compensate for them. You will need different basic clutch set ups for each elevation then you will be able to use the clickers to fine tune. Also, the clutch works best when running 3-4(center of the adjustment). When you are at 1 or 6 you aren't getting the most from your engine/driveline. I am not a clutch guy so you will need to find out from Roosterbuilt(or other less qualified companies, lol) the springs, helix, weight to run. On my Pro Roosterbuilt sent me a double angle helix, one angle worked from 3-5 and one from 7-9. I only had to take out a little weight to fine tune it. The Pro doesn't have a "clicker" type adjustment.

 

[Bocephus]

$27 off ebay. these are the "original" quick clickers. http://www.ebay.com/itm/Between-the...Parts_Accessories&hash=item2c74ff5acb&vxp=mtr