Carbon fiber repair?

[MTsled3]

Going over the sled before a trip this weekend, i noticed one of the carbon fiber supports on the overstructure is broken bad. I have a new aluminum one on the way, but if it's not here on time, is there a way to repair it? I've seen carbon fiber repair kits but do they work?

Also, i used to work at a home and ranch store and we carried a type of tape that worked like paper mache, got it wet and wrapped it around whatever was broken, and it would harden. We demo'd it on a piece of pvc that we chopped in half and glued back together with this stuff, and nobody could break it after it hardened so i was thinking of going that route. Thoughts?

 

[SRXSRULE]

I dont think that overstructure is "real" carbon fiber. Pretty sure its some composite with a thin outer layer of carbon fiber.

You can replace the broken tube with an aluminum tube, just need to heat the adhesive to get the broken tube to release.

Your magic hardening tape might work too. I would sand the surface of the damaged tube to give it something to grip.

Hopefully your new one will arrive in time

 

[LoudHandle]

I can retube it with thin Titanium Tubes.

As the title states; I have some thin walled Titanium Tube that I replace all the Faux Carbon Fiber tubes with. PM me for more info or if you want to sell / donate your broken one to R&D.

 

[southlake]

my buddy snapped his last season and we just clamshelled it with a piece of pipe and some hose clamps until his new aluminum over structure arrived. got him through a week of riding and he is not gentle on his sled haha

 

[kidder17]

1” copper pipe will insert inside of the over structure tube. A couple of hose clamps will make a nice splint of a broken shaft.


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[JMCX]

What is the part number of the equivalent aluminum over structure?

 

[LoudHandle]

What is the part number of the equivalent aluminum over structure?

Aluminum is 1021006, Carbon is 1019145

 

[sledhed]

Aluminum is 1021006, Carbon is 1019145

Reviving an old thread here, but thought I should make a correction, just for the record.

This is the wrong part number for the AL for the 155 and longer RMK / SKS Axys sleds, it is 1020589 superceded by 1024054, for 155" SKS 800. The part number 1021006 is for 144 and shorter SKS and switchback and RUSH type sleds... just want to make sure no-one orders the wrong part number by accident.
Actually the CF part numbers are 1019338 superceded by 1024053 for the Axys RMK sleds... and of course the newer part number went way up in price.

Don't ask me how I know this stuff LOL. Polaris is presently OOS nationwide on the 1024054 also. Even dealer network search turned up nothing for the 2 dealers I called. Time to throw some kind of a patch on it so I can ride until the used one I found arrives. Looks like 1.25"OD on the CF tubing...

 

[LoudHandle]

The CF tube is easily sourced on eBay. I’m out of TI replacement tubes and working way too much to source and prep them the last few years. My penance for having the skill set and talent in this day and age of desk jockeys, driving mice. Lol

I do have a few sticks of the eBay carbon tube at home. If you choose to replace it with CF. I’m sure it’s the same quality junk Polaris uses. That’s why I went with TI instead.

 

[sledhed]

The CF tube is easily sourced on eBay. I’m out of TI replacement tubes and working way too much to source and prep them the last few years. My penance for having the skill set and talent in this day and age of desk jockeys, driving mice. Lol

I do have a few sticks of the eBay carbon tube at home. If you choose to replace it with CF. I’m sure it’s the same quality junk Polaris uses. That’s why I went with TI instead.

I would think there would be demand for this (or similar) repair service, instead of people shelling out for the CF replacement. The price on the CF overstructure has gone up to $415 - ouch. The AL one is $258 but you also need the two "spacers" for the top (p/n 5633122) which are different than the ones for the CF and are 10.29 each, to switch you over "correctly" with factory parts. I personally am not worried about the weight difference, since I have to replace mine anyway I may as well put in the sks version and be done with it. I may repair this one and put it on the shelf but shouldn't need it going forward. Prior sled owner is the one who cracked it apparently since the sled has aftermarket a-arms on it.

 

[LoudHandle]

In my opinion it doesn’t require a hit. The heat from the pipe weakens / softens the right side enough to fail regardless, hence my choice to go TI and not suffer a weight penalty and never worry about it again.

 

[sledhed]

In my opinion it doesn’t require a hit. The heat from the pipe weakens / softens the right side enough to fail regardless, hence my choice to go TI and not suffer a weight penalty and never worry about it again.

Saw where guys had this problem from aftermarket pipes such as SLP (I was putting an SLP pipe on the sled and was going to insulate the CF when I saw the problem)... here is a picture of the crack mine is developing. As far as I can tell this sled has never had anything but stock pipe on it which has the clamshell protecting it a bit more than aftermarket pipes.