Do they fit, or do I have to go with the Cat boards? Search returned nothing..
Airframes on a 17 Mountain cat?
- Thread starter yukonrider
- Start date
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vector boy
Well-known member
They released new Pro-Tubes this year for the narrower boards.
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You're all right, the ones they have I can get (Parts Unlimited gift card) are wider than stock. Will probably end up going a different way.
They do have a set that is for the new chassis, and are listed as narrower, but PU doesn't stock those.
They do have a set that is for the new chassis, and are listed as narrower, but PU doesn't stock those.
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vector boy
Well-known member
https://arcticcat-us.shptron.com/p/pro-mtn-machined-boards-narrow-black?pp=12
Here’s another option. I put these on my ‘18 Sidewinder and actually very pleased with them. I ran Skinz on my Viper for 2 seasons, and prefer the “factory” look of these.
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If you end up with the new cat pro mountain boards with the plastic traction pieces do yourself a favor and install some traction screws instead. The plastic ones worked good for 1/2 a season now ice builds on them instantly, I had the same issue with the plastic grips on my old skinz boards
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Well I made that mistake then.... I guess I'll just have to see. I figured snow wouldn't stick to plastic? Plus plastic would be way easier on your boots and shins.
You don't slip with the traction screws.
They do tear up your boots but they're awesome. Once the plastic ones get scratched up a bit, they're almost as bad as stock boards.......kinda worse.
You can always do the screws later.
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vector boy
Well-known member
I’ve got a 4 inch scar on my knee that begs to differ that you don’t slip with traction screws. Never had an issue with the plastic clips on my Skinz boards, but I do get you’re logic behind them getting scratched. I have cracked a few of them, but have also broken heads off of traction screws. To each their own.
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Okay I don't slip with traction screws. 
I also wear knee/shin guards when I sled as a habit from the dark days before tube boards. I've got my own scars from those days when slipping happened multiple times a day.
I've knocked a few traction screws loose too but thankfully they're about 2 cents to replace.
I would like to find something slighly less aggressive for screws. I know what Brian and skinz are trying to achieve with the plastic cleats. A good season on the screws really does wreak havoc on some boots.
I also wear knee/shin guards when I sled as a habit from the dark days before tube boards. I've got my own scars from those days when slipping happened multiple times a day.
I've knocked a few traction screws loose too but thankfully they're about 2 cents to replace.
I would like to find something slighly less aggressive for screws. I know what Brian and skinz are trying to achieve with the plastic cleats. A good season on the screws really does wreak havoc on some boots.
Day 1 yesterday, and the boards were a slip and slide. Well, not as bad as my stock Pro RMK boards, but very disappointing for $400 and 6 hours of time...
Let me tell you how badly I DON'T want to drill out all of the 60 some odd rivets I sunk into those tubes...
I sure as hell don't drill 60 of them in there.
I think I use about half of what they send you.
If I were starting from scratch, I think I'd try some allen head or fillister head screws. I bet they'd be just as grippy and not so violent on boot soles.
http://c1552172.r72.cf0.rackcdn.com/29267_x800.jpg
Whay boards specifically did you get. Got a pic?
There are ways to add traction.
I run Burandt boards basically and don't have any issue
There are ways to add traction.
I run Burandt boards basically and don't have any issue
They are the same. We have Pro Tube airframe polished boards on special and black available.
