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Aftermarket running boards

Best aftermarket running boards for Pro Climb


  • Total voters
    47
I just heated and bent the stirrup into place & flattened the end for the carriage bolts. I wanted the most out of narrowing the body work though. A word of caution there, the more you pull the belly pan in the crappier the fit of the side panels... Also you can rivet a small piece of aluminum strap too the inside of the tunnel to cover the hole for the rear cat support. You can see them in the second link just hanging after I removed the rear tunnel section. Anyway I'm at work and can't post pics but here are the links to my install.
http://www.snowest.com/forum/showthread.php?t=330758&page=2
http://www.snowest.com/forum/showthread.php?t=394047
 
with B&M boards I sucked plastics in 1" on each side. As Burn Down stated, careful on the plastics. Clamp them before drilling/riveting back into place. Pull your side panels on/off a few times. They will bow and not fit great if you aren't careful.

B&M are great. Very stiff, but the traction screws are overkill. So grippy and scary sharp. Burandts are 1.5" narrower on each side. I would do Burandt boards next time.

b&m01.jpg b&m02.jpg b&m04.jpg
 
My stock running boards have pulled away from the body. The top edge of the boards are not "connected". Is this common?
 
I just got my set of Burandt Powder Trac boards after seeing WyoBoy1000 and burn downs post. My question is can i shorten the Polaris boards and mount the back of them in the existing hole in mt tunnel? Did you notice something that im not seeing that would cause an issue? it looks like i can just cut the difference off the front of the boards?
 
Shortened Burandt Boards

I looked at doing this when I installed mine. However it looked like it was going to be more trouble than what it was worth. In order to use the aluminum mounting tab on the front of the board, a guy would have to heat up the Lord's glue to release it, hopefully without breaking it, slide the tab out, cut the board to the desired length, and then re-glue the tab in the end of the board.

For a guy like me who had never worked with Lord's glue before, it wasn't worth the risk of spending a bunch of time and money screwing it up only to gain a board that is a little shorter. I found it was easier just to mount the rear of the board in a new location and nearly all my critical rivet points seemed to line-up in "meaty" parts of the Burandt board. If you are more comfortable working with Lord's glue than I am, I'm sure its do-able though.

If I was to do it again, I would look at angling the outside edge of the board up a little more like what Wyo did on a recent install. I never thought of this, but it makes a lot of sense and isn't too difficult to do since you have to modify the front stirrup to bolt up the board mounting tab anyway.

P2021686.jpg P3111705.jpg P3111706.jpg
 
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Ok that makes sense! I wasnt sure about the glue either. I was thinking of cutting it and welding my own tab on to attach the stirrup. Also to mount them more at an angle would you just roll up the existing lip that you attach the board to?

Thanks for the pics too. Im gonna do a write up on installing the boards when i go to do them. Hopefully gonna start installing them this week.
 
Make sure you know your starting height, I bent the lip up the whole way, make sure you don't cut through the rivets along the edge of tunnel. And the rear bracket bends up as well.

Having them angled up is a huge plus, way better grip when you lay it over
 
Make sure you know your starting height, I bent the lip up the whole way, make sure you don't cut through the rivets along the edge of tunnel. And the rear bracket bends up as well.

Having them angled up is a huge plus, way better grip when you lay it over

How much did you angle them up?

i was thinking about making a new lip to attach the boards so i could raise the start height of them up higher than stock. Kinda like the concept behind the air loc boards from skinz. i rode to pros back to back, one with stock boards and one with air locs on the top setting and it felt so much better laying it over with them higher. Hopefully it will carry over to the proclimb.
 
2" on the outside,

I thought about doing that and glad I didn't, this way when you lay it over father than your body you maintain grip
 
That makes sense. I'm gonna mount them angled up for now and see how i like it. i Can always move them up in the future if i want. Ive got all my parts together and the sled stripped down. Gonna start on it tonight.
 
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