583 on boost

[rideharder]

i was just wondering how the 583 rotary likes boost? will be running 44mm carbs and single pipe. looking to build a tube frame sled and might as well run some boost. just 6-8 nothing fancy just more go. what is involved to run boost on a 583 with carbs, i know i need power jets and i need to run a boost line to the carb tops. and the rave's do i just need to run a boost line to the top caps aswell? should i run a pressure tube from the pipe to the fuel pressure regulator or the boost box to the fuel pressure regulator? how do the power jets like running mixed gas? anything else i should know?
Thanks and happy riding!

 

[sledjunkie3]

ok you will need to tap in on the motor side of the carbs so you can get your vacuum for a blow off valve if you have a boost bottle i took mine out and used the holes where the bottle was for my vacuum. You will need to run boost to the tops of the carbs to pressurise the bowls, need a line coming off the bottom of each bowl to your power jets in front of the carbs. I use a mallory fuel regulator because it has a boost port. That is about it need any other help dont be affraid to ask

 

[Turbo11T]

583

You need to run 38mm carbs. the 44's will be to big. If the 44mms would have worked back when alot of guys ran these setups they would have used them and not many did. If your only going to run 8lbs of boost max make sure you have a turbo that is sized approiately. Don't get oversized. Maybe like a smaller trim aero. Or a garrett gt2554r. The ball bearing will make a huge difference. I had a 300 series aero on mine when I did it and I would go smaller than that. Actually would steer away from the aero all together. Ask me anything you want. I can still remember that sled like the back of my hand.

 

[rideharder]

ok you will be first on my list when the time comes lol. how did the 583 preform with boost? and what is the max boost i could run with a stock everything besides a doubled up basegasket? (pumpgas) would 8psi be pushing it for stock, would i have to take out some of the compresion?

 

[devilrmk]

Run to your pipe for the fuel pressure regulator. Fuel pressure will rise before boost and hang for a second after boost. Gets rid of a couple of lean spots.

 

[rideharder]

are power jets manditory or just recomended? always wanted to know why they are needed, i would think you could get away with just taking your time jetting? what does every one run the dial a jet or just the mikuni powerjets? and i have seen setups with 1 , 2 or even 3 in a carb, whats needed and whats just concidered overkill?

 

[F-Bomb]

There is an endless list of things to do to prep your rotax for turbo if you want it to run good and live. Most half baked turbos can't outrun a stocker on most of their rides...especially when being drug back to the trailer.

You must have correct ignition timing..rotary valve timing...a watercraft shaft seal...a pto block plate...compression no higher then 120 at 3000ft...as starters.

fuel..must have a minimum of quality 91 oct at 5000 ft 6 lbs boost max. 100LL at 9lbs...110 or better at any boost above.

clutching...same as any sledding situation only about three times worse in black magic and plan on lots of time money and parts..everything changes with how the thing is tuned and what boost you are operating at.

EGT's..with a thousand hours of experience on a known system it would be tuff without good egt's..beginner on an unknown..nearly impossible!

What you'll need....
money.. plan on about three times what you think after you've added up your first batch of necessary parts...scratch that..four times!
time..plan on lots and lots of shop time and then lots and lots of poor running field time prior to getting her going good. Your first year will be within five miles of the trailer and say goodbye to most of your riding friends because they will abandon ship quickly!

Sounds brutal eh? It is....do yourself a huge favor and buy a complete ready to go system and then still be prepared for a lot of heartache and expense while you get your feet wet. By buying a known setup from an expert you will at least save yourself half in the long run and probably get alot more riding fun out of it. Sorry to rain on your parade..cold hard facts learned from extensive experience.

 

[rideharder]

well first off i dont think any one makes a turbo kit for a 1978 blizzard 6500with a 583 straped in and with my ifs taking up half the front end i lost a bit more room. and when the time comes i will be stripping the 6500 and rebuilding it in a chromo tube frame that is compleatly 1 off. i will be making my own A-arms and skid design. same rear end as the redline revolt. and the front will just be a standard a arm setup with a few tricks...... for suspension i will not have a single coil or air spring should be fun. will be running a 136-151 track depending what i can find for dirt cheep. prefere a 144*16 but i will see what come up. going to be hard to turn a old 583 into a rider forward with the carbs haning so low but got it mostly figgered out. will make a alum gas tank and hollow out the front of it to build a boost box. more of less the carbs will sit right infront of the gas tank and the boost box will be inset. i am thinking the sled will be notibly top heavy tho but i will see

and for my setup i can build it way cheeper than i could ever find a prebuilt one for. garrett 25 series or a 28 series for $100 i have most of the alum and ss tubing will have to get some 38mm flat sides, $125 (with one powerjet in each) from a budy, have been told my 44mm carbs will not work well. its just my time tuning that will get in the way due to a new frame design and its inharent flaws and a turbo motor. everything else has been planed out. egt's and a/f are the one thing a cant get for cheep.

 

[DWHalverson]

I love it!! Cool project.

Dave

well first off i dont think any one makes a turbo kit for a 1978 blizzard 6500with a 583 straped in and with my ifs taking up half the front end i lost a bit more room. and when the time comes i will be stripping the 6500 and rebuilding it in a chromo tube frame that is compleatly 1 off. i will be making my own A-arms and skid design. same rear end as the redline revolt. and the front will just be a standard a arm setup with a few tricks...... for suspension i will not have a single coil or air spring should be fun. will be running a 136-151 track depending what i can find for dirt cheep. prefere a 144*16 but i will see what come up. going to be hard to turn a old 583 into a rider forward with the carbs haning so low but got it mostly figgered out. will make a alum gas tank and hollow out the front of it to build a boost box. more of less the carbs will sit right infront of the gas tank and the boost box will be inset. i am thinking the sled will be notibly top heavy tho but i will see

and for my setup i can build it way cheeper than i could ever find a prebuilt one for. garrett 25 series or a 28 series for $100 i have most of the alum and ss tubing will have to get some 38mm flat sides, $125 (with one powerjet in each) from a budy, have been told my 44mm carbs will not work well. its just my time tuning that will get in the way due to a new frame design and its inharent flaws and a turbo motor. everything else has been planed out. egt's and a/f are the one thing a cant get for cheep.

 

[rideharder]

it gets the job done, but sadly its now the backup for when my poo dies. last year pics but since then i took out the 617 and now has a 583 and mountain bars and 6" riser. weighs in at around 450 give or take. almost sad to do this to such a sled, but i think i made it better