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2025 Boost - P-22 clutch verdict?

K

KhaosRipcord

Free Member
Polaris Klim 509
I just bought a holdover 2025 Khaos Boost 155 because why not. Current sleds are 2 2022 850 Khaos 155 NAs. I loved those sleds but looking for more power. What is the verdict on the 2025 version of the P-22 clutch? Any improvement or mandatory upgrades for the 2025 P-22? Or are we still in the situation where folks are recommending tossing it in the trash and putting the P-85 on? I have TRS clutching on my 22s and love it. not seeing confidence inspiring options for the P-22 but wondering how folks are faring in 2025. Thanks.
 
We have done many P85 clutches with our Carbon fiber covers in the last 2 years...Working with Tony is easy he already has a set up....I just tell people if your P22 is working for you great, but if not, might be easier to change to P85...Once the warrantee is over on the sleds with P22 failures more people will change because the P22 is $1100.00. P85 $625.00. Simple math put switching to a P85 with us ($1500.00) and the carbon fiber cover costs around $2000.00 includes new clutch cover and lighten and balance both clutches and TRS clutch kit...When people ask me my thoughts I just say "it is about a piece of mind knowing your P85 does not fail, ride without worry at 10K feet" From what I hear, people love the P85....More snappy in bottom end and better performance...
 
Resurfacing this thread to see if any one has had issues with their 25 P-22 this year. Just a couple hundred miles on mine and no issues after initial retorque of the bolt. I checked it every ride. Still debating on just p22 clutchwork or going to the P85 long term. Some smaller clutch shops I've talked to say they've seen durability improvements for 2025. Any higher milage late model P22s put there?
 
680 miles on my '25 boost with P22 and no issues, retorqued after every ride, bolt has moved on the retorque since about 250 miles.
 
After installing the Carbonsled P22 fix, my clutch bolt no longer takes torque after every ride like it did prior to installing the fix.

Hopefully that solves the problem permanently. The original clutch on my '24 boost came apart on me with about 550 miles on the sled earlier this season. Thankfully, I was able to get it fixed under warranty with a brand new clutch with the latest and greatest factory clutch bolt. I put maybe 70 miles on the new clutch between two rides after I got it back from the dealer, and after both rides I had to re-torque it to 110 lb-ft ... and it took a bit of torque to get it back to 110 lb-ft both times as well.

So, after doing the carbon sled kit .... The bolt has stayed spot-on torqued to 85 lb-ft after the last like 4 or 5 more rides I've put on it.

Hopefully something else on that clutch doesn't come apart again.
 
i also did the carbon sled fix. but i did nit use their bolt, fire and ice has the ARP bolt and i personally have had great luck with arp in the past. installed and torqued it has not moved since. i will also say i lapped output shaft to the clutch to make sure they were evenly mated.
 
I've got a '22 Boost with just under 1500 miles. No issues with the p-22
My 25 Khaos had 300 right now, no issues with the p-22
 
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i also did the carbon sled fix. but i did nit use their bolt, fire and ice has the ARP bolt and i personally have had great luck with arp in the past. installed and torqued it has not moved since. i will also say i lapped output shaft to the clutch to make sure they were evenly mated.
We have found out that lapping the clutch to the crank does help with keeping it tight. we send lapping compound out with every P22 we balance. simple and easy...
 
I lapped my clutch to crank on my 25 9r right from new. Also did carbon sled fix, with fire and ice arp bolt. Only 380 miles, but the bolt never moved. I put a paint marker line from bolt to the cover, so I can just look at it. No need to keep checking torque.
 
We have found out that lapping the clutch to the crank does help with keeping it tight. we send lapping compound out with every P22 we balance. simple and easy...
yes, i should have given you credit but could not remember who told me this nugget of wisdom. it defiantly mated it much better to the crank
I lapped my clutch to crank on my 25 9r right from new. Also did carbon sled fix, with fire and ice arp bolt. Only 380 miles, but the bolt never moved. I put a paint marker line from bolt to the cover, so I can just look at it. No need to keep checking torque.
Me too, just i waited for the first ride to retorque the bolt(it didn't move) then i paint markered it
 
What is the carbon sled P22 fix?
It's essentially a new sliding sheave clutch hub, that instead of just being held in place with the primary clutch bolt(which holds the clutch together) that threads into the threads on the fixed sheave to tie the clutch together. Takes a lot of the load of the primary bolt and spreads it out to both the clutch and the bolt. I've got one of the other b7 carbon versions on my sled. For 110$ I figured it was worth it.
 

personally not a fan of the titanium bolt as i don't think it is nearly as strong as the arp bolt but once the alignment is fixed maybe it doesn't matter any more
 
The key is lapping the crank taper. The better the fit the less chance of bolt backing off. Over time the clutch works further into the crank taper and bolt gets loose. If you really want to.Never worry about it just remove primary clutch and put it in the oven at 150 degrees for 20 minutes and then install it. Extremely tight fit but can be harder to remove next time. This is a old trick from my drag race days.
 
I am in the process of putting a new clutch on my 9R, can someone describe the lapping process, how coarse of a compund do you use?

Just want to be sure I do not make preventative mistakes
 
I am in the process of putting a new clutch on my 9R, can someone describe the lapping process, how coarse of a compund do you use?

Just want to be sure I do not make preventative mistakes
you can get valve lapping compound at any hardware store, or auto store...I would get the coarse rather than fine....put some compound on the crank and some on the clutch taper....push the clutch against the crank hard and spin the clutch around, with ways, and back and forth until you get the motor to roll over....whip clean with acetone and install clutch...I would recommend doing too 2 times just to make sure....
 
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