2010 m8 Coolant won't flow through the system

[Knox]

Overheated my 2010 M8 on the way into cooke ........brought it into bobs shop, informed me that the o rings underneath the head needed to be replaced, we did that tested it still overheated, coolant isn't heating up so therefore we determined that could be the water pump or thermostat, haven't looked at that since in order to so you would have to pull the motor correct? How easy is that? Or if there is any other solutions let me know

 

[diggerdown]

Pull the thermostat and throw it in some very hot water and see if it opens up, I'm guessing that is what is wrong. I have had sleds that air locked just from the trailer ride. Have you tried letting it sit and run with the nose up high on a snow bank?

 

[Knox]

Yup I did try that......do you have to pull the motor for the thermostat?

 

[diggerdown]

I think you have to pick it up a ways. The thermostat is below the clutch and towards the back of the engine. Nothing is easy on the laydown engines, the old uprights took two minutes to pull the thermostat out. Sounds like a typical trip to Cooke! I think cats have a jinx in that town.

 

[Knox]

It happened three miles from the parking lot on the ride in

 

[2010Catman]

I'd try tipping it up and leaning it towards the left side. This is the best way to bleed the cooling system if that doesn't fix your problem your thermostat is toast. Hard to see your water pump go out but you never know

 

[JeepThing]

To correctly pull the thermostat just pull the clutch side motor mount. I tried to get it out without it is just easier to do it right dosen't take long.

 

[Knox]

Ive never pulled motor mounts on this sled before, where is at exactly and where do i go from that point

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[JeepThing]

once you look at the side it is just all the bolts that go through the rubber mounts and the four I believe around the crank. once it is off the thermostat housing is right there under it. the housing that is connected to the 1" coolant line that goes behind the motor.

 

[Slednadz]

Never had a thermostat fail, but I've always been under the assumption when a t-stat fail it fails open by design?

 

[diggerdown]

Never had a thermostat fail, but I've always been under the assumption when a t-stat fail it fails open by design?

Wrong assumption.

 

[Slednadz]

Wrong assumption.

Maybe? Most modern day thermostats are designed to fail open as it only makes sense. My bet would be he's either got a tremendous amount of air in the system or a bad water pump.

 

[ScubaSteveSK]

I would check the water pump gear. There is a banjo bolt for oil injection in the bottom of the engine that is accessible by removing the skid plate. Pull that, collect any oil that drains and check for brass shavings - also roll up insert a clean shop rag through the bolt hole to see if there are any shavings on that as well. If there are any shavings present it is more than likely your water pump gear failed, and hopefully just on the water pump shaft (#2 in the pic) not the crank. I am currently dealing with a failure of both.

If you find shavings remove the oil pump (#1) on the front of the engine - #2 shaft runs both the oil pump and water pump. After you have removed the oil pump hold the end of #2 and slowly turn over the motor with iginition off. If that shaft doesn't spin your water pump gear is F'd.

 

[diggerdown]

Maybe? Most modern day thermostats are designed to fail open as it only makes sense. My bet would be he's either got a tremendous amount of air in the system or a bad water pump.

Not sure where you get your info from but thermostats are closed until the heat of the water opens them. They can fail either way, but if you ever tried to compress the spring on them you know it is pretty strong. Back to the issue at hand. The brass gear to run the pump does seem to be a weak link and especially with the ones that have done the oil delete. I assume by now the problem has been fixed and it would be nice to hear what it actually was.