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Nope no black marks when I checked the last time yes belt was cleaned.
2009 M1000 Blew belt with 300 Miles on sled
- Thread starter VmaX 600
- Start date
P
i have been running a Gates 44HP4616 and it seems yo be doing a good job and the price is alot easier to handle if i blow one at $55 at the local NAPA store providing they have them instock had to pay frieght on the last ones that i bought but it sounds like they are going to start keeping them instock but i need to throw some more wieght at it because its turning around 7550
D
Trust me on this. You need to move your secondary in. IF you take that belt off you will see the side of the belt that is facing away from the motor it s starting to cup from slipping in the secondary under load.
As the belt wears guys will be the first to tighten up the belt but never give moving the secondary in a thought. See as the belt thins the two fixed sheaves need to move closer together to keep the same pinch on the belt in the same shift ratio.
Pull the secondary off and pull one .060 shim out to start then keep pulling .030 out till the heat is gone.
NOW if you take off the secondary and find there is only one shim in there you have one of those sleds that needs the motor mount shim kit. You will have to move the motor over to get more belt pinch to keep the belts from blowing.
You have to trust me on this.
Don.
V
Are you talking about the shims that are behind the bolt the ones to adjust the deflection?
also got an email back from CPC.
The 2009 M1000 is the hardest sled on belts in the world. The fix is to put a new engine motor mount on the is speciallly built ($185) and to install a after market additional motor mount ($285). Then at that point, I would suggest some CPC adjustable cam arms. This is the minimum recommendation. Later you could install our diamond drive conversion kit for the secondary driven clutch ($299). Thanks Dale
Just blows brand new sled and havd to worry about this stuff. Was hoping for once wouldnt have to worry about having problems.
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Not the deflection shims but the shims behind the secondary.
The motor mount is a good add on.... but if fine run the stock one till it blows out. Keep going in till the heat is gone. IF you find that your in as far as you can you may have to cut the back side of the secondary in the area that the shims base on or move the motor over. There is a few sleds around that have this problem.
Don.
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No! the machine that's the hardest on belts that I have seen is the 1000 Skidoo mach Z. 1 belt for every trip. Maybe 80 to 100 miles. Buddy buys belts by the box full on E Bay.
L
you better plan on replacing alot of belts on the 1000 300 miles seems to be about average unless you just putt around. thats just the price you pay for horse power and tourq.
V
blowing belts
If you already have the venting done. Also check the inside bottom of your primary where the belt sits at idle. There has been noted that there can be a sharp edge on both sheaves that can cut into the belt on engagement and cause lower belt life. Check this out my sled blew belys bad to 1000 Crossfire. Fixed that up and added vents have had no problem in last 200 miles belt looks good and I haven't been easy on it.
If you already have the venting done. Also check the inside bottom of your primary where the belt sits at idle. There has been noted that there can be a sharp edge on both sheaves that can cut into the belt on engagement and cause lower belt life. Check this out my sled blew belys bad to 1000 Crossfire. Fixed that up and added vents have had no problem in last 200 miles belt looks good and I haven't been easy on it.
V
has anyone tried the STM hardmounts and snubber looks like it would work?
who else makes good kits for the motor mounts?
who else makes good kits for the motor mounts?
My clutches were not aligned so I added a .60 shim and I added a extra motor mount and torque stop. After 3 or 4 hard and long hill climbs I can hold my hand on my secondary clutch. No more belt problems. I also have the rktek secondary setup. This helps alot with backshifting.
What can i do to get my primary to run cooler. Secondary is never as hot as the primary. You can put your hand on the secondary, but not on the primary after a run. I am running the 046 belt, had to add alot of weight to the primary to bring down the rpm. Never touched the secondary.
R
Dale Cutler gave you good advice. I have 3 years now on my modified M1000 and have increased belt life with all the usual fixes, but by far the key is stopping motor movement under a load. I have well over 1000 hard mountain miles on my current 046 belt after adding the extra motor mount and mag side push arm. DD secondaries do not float, and you will never solve your belt problem untill you put a leash on that motor.
Venting, clean clutches, broke in belt, alignment, lower gearing, after-market secondary are all important but are only about 30% of the fix at best.
Some here will tell you to run the 060 belt and I strongly disagree. The 060 is part of the problem. This belt is softer and builds heat quicker. When they break, they typically explode causing major over-rev and possible crank damage. I have experimented extensively with both belts using a RPM sensor on the drive shaft. The 046 can take about 5 back to back pulls before it starts to fade. The 060 starts to fade after 2.
On the solid mount question, I would only do a solid mount on the front of the motor-mount plate only. Solid mounts in the rear will break the bulkhead.
The extra mount and push arm is a ***** to do, but absolutely worth it!
Venting, clean clutches, broke in belt, alignment, lower gearing, after-market secondary are all important but are only about 30% of the fix at best.
Some here will tell you to run the 060 belt and I strongly disagree. The 060 is part of the problem. This belt is softer and builds heat quicker. When they break, they typically explode causing major over-rev and possible crank damage. I have experimented extensively with both belts using a RPM sensor on the drive shaft. The 046 can take about 5 back to back pulls before it starts to fade. The 060 starts to fade after 2.
On the solid mount question, I would only do a solid mount on the front of the motor-mount plate only. Solid mounts in the rear will break the bulkhead.
The extra mount and push arm is a ***** to do, but absolutely worth it!
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RockyMtn.Kris did you drill a new hole for the mag mount or use the one that was already there?
Do you have to change much in the clutching to run the 46 belt from the 60 belt.
Do you have to change much in the clutching to run the 46 belt from the 60 belt.
Shock tower vent.
The Mo-flow shock tower vent really helps vent the clutch with cool air. I installed one prior to last weekend; we were only ditchbanging but iy cut my clutch heat down by 75% at a minimum. I seen a Dragon 700 and a M7 blow belts on Saturday and I had no issues. That $20 vent it worth every penny.
The Mo-flow shock tower vent really helps vent the clutch with cool air. I installed one prior to last weekend; we were only ditchbanging but iy cut my clutch heat down by 75% at a minimum. I seen a Dragon 700 and a M7 blow belts on Saturday and I had no issues. That $20 vent it worth every penny.
R
The push arm and mount are factory AC stuff. You have to fab a small bushing to make the motormount work, but no big deal. Do a search for "extra mount" or "motor mount" and you will find all the part #s and how to. The pics were someone elses sled but you get the idea.
Heres one of mine 1/2 way through....... Warning graphic image......
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You may be able to use one of the existing holes, but I drilled a new one.
Most guys are getting about 200rpm more from switching to the 046. You may need to buy some adjustable primary weights
