Is there anyone running with the oil pump and tank removed, and pre mixing?
Any suggestions on how to by pass the system?
Any suggestions on how to by pass the system?
2008 800R Oil Pump removal
- Thread starter doodude73
- Start date
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970SnowSlayer
Well-known member
doo a search on here or dootalk for "oil injection delete" or "oil delete" / "oil pump delete" or "premix" ...you should get some results.
run it rich on the oil, 24:1 - 32:1 i go 24:1.
my engine is pre mix only, you just need to go to the dealer and order the oil pump block off plate and gasket off the 600rs race sled, then come up with a little bottle or similar to hold a small anount of oil to keep the water pump shaft lubed. find a new place to zip tie up the ecm, and make a small bracket to hold your pull start handle. not a big deal at all to make those couple of parts. if you want to use all factory parts you can do that also, just get all the brackets for the ecm and pull start off the 600rs also. i wanted to save some money so i made everything except the block off plate/ gasket. only important part is to make sure when you put the block off plate on that you refill the water pump cavity and allow any air to bleed out. here is a good explanation with pics
http://www.dootalk.com/forums/topic/172479-freeride-sled-project/page-3#entry1439535
scroll down till you get to the pump delete part
hope that helps,
J
run it rich on the oil, 24:1 - 32:1 i go 24:1.
my engine is pre mix only, you just need to go to the dealer and order the oil pump block off plate and gasket off the 600rs race sled, then come up with a little bottle or similar to hold a small anount of oil to keep the water pump shaft lubed. find a new place to zip tie up the ecm, and make a small bracket to hold your pull start handle. not a big deal at all to make those couple of parts. if you want to use all factory parts you can do that also, just get all the brackets for the ecm and pull start off the 600rs also. i wanted to save some money so i made everything except the block off plate/ gasket. only important part is to make sure when you put the block off plate on that you refill the water pump cavity and allow any air to bleed out. here is a good explanation with pics
http://www.dootalk.com/forums/topic/172479-freeride-sled-project/page-3#entry1439535
scroll down till you get to the pump delete part
hope that helps,
J
Last edited:
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pfi572
Well-known member
You can pull the tank but you need brakets to hold recoil handle,ecm. All you need is a hose with a breather running up to about the level of the oil tank for the oil pump.
I ordered and installed small tank that is for the 440 and 600 race sleds. Picture attached is of another sled i found on line.
Parts list below. About $300 for everything.
512060491 Grip support
512060337 ECM support
512060379 Tank Support
570069700 Rubber Latch for ECM
420810825 Cover plate for oil pump
420931566 Gasket
420956240 Oil tank
420960279 Tank cap
420874370 Fitting for oil line
512060380 Rear noice shield , this really isnt needed. Its the one in the picture that joins the to together.
I ordered and installed small tank that is for the 440 and 600 race sleds. Picture attached is of another sled i found on line.
Parts list below. About $300 for everything.
512060491 Grip support
512060337 ECM support
512060379 Tank Support
570069700 Rubber Latch for ECM
420810825 Cover plate for oil pump
420931566 Gasket
420956240 Oil tank
420960279 Tank cap
420874370 Fitting for oil line
512060380 Rear noice shield , this really isnt needed. Its the one in the picture that joins the to together.
Deleted mine last year and fabbed up all the brackets myself. Only thing I'd recommend is to get the oil bottle off the RS. Tried a couple different setups with breather valves and nothing worked, bought the RS bottle and the oil level hasn't moved since.
I run 40:1
I run 40:1
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