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1998 skidoo formula z 670 no spark

guys im in need of help i have the sled all taken apart due to a no spark issue i was told that because i pull it over and get no spark that my stator is bad i dont think so theres alot of other electrical as well so id like to no how do i test ohms on the stator anyone no how to do this to see if its good let meno i have a tester
 
did you check to see if the was just no spark to the plugs or did you check to see if there was spark to the coil?? alot of time with these sled the coil will die and your strator will be putting out spark but the dead coil is killing the system also another killer on these is the tether! was it making correct contact? if not it will ground the system!
 
we have a light tester pluged right into each coil wire no spark from there we also disconected the teather well the ignitionswitch unpluged to see nothing both ways ?
 
Check the stator to make sure each ignition circuit wire is OPEN to ground (the case). The stator has two separate circuits in it. One for lighting and one for ignition.

Get a manual (download for cheap or free) and go through the step by step process making sure that each measurement is within specification (you have to look your bike up in the chart).

Do a wiggle test on all wires while your buddy (who you bought beer for) pulls the sled over and over and over while you check for spark)

Verify all connections are clean and tight - tighter than a ....then check them again.

On my 96 summit disconnection of all switches (kill switch, ignition/key switch, and tether) will allow it to start - the circuits need to be open. Grounding the circuit is what kills the stator spark.

On my 96 summit - I had intermittent spark issues that were compounding an improperly connected HAC vacuum line - a wiggle test finally proved that the wires going into the CDI (right where they enter) were causing the intermittent issue. Though the CDI wasn't that costly - I replaced all vacuum lines, fuel pump, fuel tank filter, fuel lines, which were not needed and very expensive (bought them at the stealer).
 
no spark on 1 cylinder

I was running the sled slow dragging my ice fishing tent. It seemed like a plug fouled, I changed the plug and it was good for another day and then fouled (or quit firring) on the same plug again. One plug hot, 1 cold to touch. I changed the plug again and no change, hooked plug to wire without plug in hole and no spark. Can half the coil go bad or is there another control to the coil. It will run on the one cylinder.
 
I had my 583 only running on 1 cylinder because of the coil. I bought a new one and it ran both cylinders and ots works perfect ever since.
 
I was running the sled slow dragging my ice fishing tent. It seemed like a plug fouled, I changed the plug and it was good for another day and then fouled (or quit firring) on the same plug again. One plug hot, 1 cold to touch. I changed the plug again and no change, hooked plug to wire without plug in hole and no spark. Can half the coil go bad or is there another control to the coil. It will run on the one cylinder.
It might just be a bad plug boot. Unscrew it or cut it off & screw on a new one for under $10.00. You can test your old one with an ohm meter. It should be around 5000 ohms. If your boot is good, cut 1/4" off of the plug wire & reinstall. Fixed many this way.
 
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