If your M series is anything like mine, it rides like a lumber wagon. My kidneys are reduced to jello by the end of the day and I found myself riding back to the cabin/hotel at 3mph because of severe arm pump when the trails are pounded out at the end of the day.
After hours of research, I dropped an email to Kevin @ KMod suspension. He confirmed what I had been reading, his suspension will allow to me to ride harder, longer and faster. Get your minds out of the gutter, I'm talking about sledding!
My sled is a stock motored 05 M7 162 with completely stock suspension and all the ususal mods like a Power Claw track, tunnel update, Boss seat etc.
After talking to Kevin, I ordered the following:
Turn Key 162" skid with black powdercoated Ice Age rails
Raptor rear shock upgrade
Raptor front IFS shocks
Billet 4 wheel axle kit (I seem to be able to break anything, so this was my choice)
Also included in this years skid is Kevin's tool-less billet transfer block adjuster
Here is how it arrived:
Detailed installation instructions and tuning info:
The hat:
My quality inspector checking out the IFS raptor shocks:
Ice age rails, anti-stab, billet 4 wheel axle and hyfax:
Inspector checking out the new rear wheels, you can see the Raptor skid shocks here too:
To swap out the front shocks, lift up the nose of the sled (or roll it on it's side) and remove the existing shocks. You will need a 9/16" box end wrench and a 9/16" socket and ratchet. Kevin's instructions detail heating/forming a small area in the nosecone to accomodate the Raptor clicker adjuster, but I found I didn't need to.
Old:
New:
With that out of the way, I moved on to the skid assembly.
First, I slid the hyfax onto the rails, secured them with the supplied self tapping torx bolts and cut them on an angle with a sawzall. I mounted the anti stab setup in the forward set of holes on the Ice Age rails. Blue loctite was applied to the bolts to make sure they stay put.
Next, I mounted the axle ajuster blocks on the rear of the rail. It's worth mentioning that because I opted for a 4 wheel axle kit, the adjusters go on the outside of the rail. If you are using the 2 wheel setup, they would be inboard.
Then I mounted the rear arm bump stops:
I then assembled the front arm shock. It has a more compressed spring compared to the rear one. I lightly oiled the shaft to be able to slide it in through the shock mount. I centered it on the shaft using the supplied lock collars and a tape measure. Blue loctite was applied to the set screws on the locating collars.
The rear shock was mounted between the rails loosely. Then the front arm installed. It can be differentiated from the rear by the small round stock near the top bolts. The shock was bolted to the arm with supplied hardware. A support bar was installed in the 3rd hole from the front of the rails. I then installed the limiter straps and adjusted the distance from the ground to the center of the front arm mounting points to between 12" and 12.5".
I moved to the back of the skid and cut the hyfax on an angle to match the rail. I then assembled the rear axle and wheel assembly. I did not tighten this at this time.
Next I installed the billet adjuster block and rear scissor assembly. This is left loose.
The rear arm was then added to the scissor and tightened:
Center the rear shock on the shaft using the supplied collars and a tape measure. I found it much easier to lightly oil this shaft to be able to slide it through the shock. Wipe it off when you're done if you decide to do this. Make sure to loctite the set screws on the shock locating collars. You can then install it in the skid and tighten only the top bolt on the rear arm. You can also see that I've added the rear support bar in this picture.
Next I added the rear upper idler wheels and lock collars. The set scews go away from the wheel so that you can tighten them. I added the center support bar at this time.
Finally, I installed the Ice Age ice scratchers and tightened everything in the skid except the rear axle. I opted to grease everything before installing it in the sled. There is 1 zerk on the front arm and 3 on the rear.
To install the skid in the sled, I first removed the old one. I then compressed the rear arm on the Kmod and used a basic tie down around one of the support bars to keep the skid compressed during installation. I'm not sure if this is required or not, but I *HATE* wrestling with skids and it made reinstallation a breeze.
I then verified track alignment/tension and was ready for a test ride!
I will post my ride impressions later today if it warms up. I need to get some more seat time on it and it's -37C here with the wind this morning.
After hours of research, I dropped an email to Kevin @ KMod suspension. He confirmed what I had been reading, his suspension will allow to me to ride harder, longer and faster. Get your minds out of the gutter, I'm talking about sledding!
My sled is a stock motored 05 M7 162 with completely stock suspension and all the ususal mods like a Power Claw track, tunnel update, Boss seat etc.
After talking to Kevin, I ordered the following:
Turn Key 162" skid with black powdercoated Ice Age rails
Raptor rear shock upgrade
Raptor front IFS shocks
Billet 4 wheel axle kit (I seem to be able to break anything, so this was my choice)
Also included in this years skid is Kevin's tool-less billet transfer block adjuster
Here is how it arrived:
Detailed installation instructions and tuning info:
The hat:
My quality inspector checking out the IFS raptor shocks:
Ice age rails, anti-stab, billet 4 wheel axle and hyfax:
Inspector checking out the new rear wheels, you can see the Raptor skid shocks here too:
To swap out the front shocks, lift up the nose of the sled (or roll it on it's side) and remove the existing shocks. You will need a 9/16" box end wrench and a 9/16" socket and ratchet. Kevin's instructions detail heating/forming a small area in the nosecone to accomodate the Raptor clicker adjuster, but I found I didn't need to.
Old:
New:
With that out of the way, I moved on to the skid assembly.
First, I slid the hyfax onto the rails, secured them with the supplied self tapping torx bolts and cut them on an angle with a sawzall. I mounted the anti stab setup in the forward set of holes on the Ice Age rails. Blue loctite was applied to the bolts to make sure they stay put.
Next, I mounted the axle ajuster blocks on the rear of the rail. It's worth mentioning that because I opted for a 4 wheel axle kit, the adjusters go on the outside of the rail. If you are using the 2 wheel setup, they would be inboard.
Then I mounted the rear arm bump stops:
I then assembled the front arm shock. It has a more compressed spring compared to the rear one. I lightly oiled the shaft to be able to slide it in through the shock mount. I centered it on the shaft using the supplied lock collars and a tape measure. Blue loctite was applied to the set screws on the locating collars.
The rear shock was mounted between the rails loosely. Then the front arm installed. It can be differentiated from the rear by the small round stock near the top bolts. The shock was bolted to the arm with supplied hardware. A support bar was installed in the 3rd hole from the front of the rails. I then installed the limiter straps and adjusted the distance from the ground to the center of the front arm mounting points to between 12" and 12.5".
I moved to the back of the skid and cut the hyfax on an angle to match the rail. I then assembled the rear axle and wheel assembly. I did not tighten this at this time.
Next I installed the billet adjuster block and rear scissor assembly. This is left loose.
The rear arm was then added to the scissor and tightened:
Center the rear shock on the shaft using the supplied collars and a tape measure. I found it much easier to lightly oil this shaft to be able to slide it through the shock. Wipe it off when you're done if you decide to do this. Make sure to loctite the set screws on the shock locating collars. You can then install it in the skid and tighten only the top bolt on the rear arm. You can also see that I've added the rear support bar in this picture.
Next I added the rear upper idler wheels and lock collars. The set scews go away from the wheel so that you can tighten them. I added the center support bar at this time.
Finally, I installed the Ice Age ice scratchers and tightened everything in the skid except the rear axle. I opted to grease everything before installing it in the sled. There is 1 zerk on the front arm and 3 on the rear.
To install the skid in the sled, I first removed the old one. I then compressed the rear arm on the Kmod and used a basic tie down around one of the support bars to keep the skid compressed during installation. I'm not sure if this is required or not, but I *HATE* wrestling with skids and it made reinstallation a breeze.
I then verified track alignment/tension and was ready for a test ride!
I will post my ride impressions later today if it warms up. I need to get some more seat time on it and it's -37C here with the wind this morning.
