IQR Waterpump Seals

Markbano · Dec 12, 2012

Hello

Rebuilding the engine on my son's 2009 IQR 600 Racer. I had to remove the oil/water pump cross shaft to clean it and remove some slight rust. I have a new water pump seal (rubber) and mechanical seal. A couple questions for our IQR engine experts:

1) Have you noticed that there is a brass bushing on the water pump side of the cross shaft (which is held tight by a screw in the bottom of the case) - but the parts diagrams and the IQR service manual never show it or mention it? The parts diagrams show (for the water pump side of the shaft) a thrust washer, a rubber seal, and then a mechanical seal. No bushing is mentioned nor is one shown in the diagram of the pump or the diagram of the case. Just wondering why that might be. The service manual says to simply remove the cross shaft through the water pump side of the case - but that would be a disaster if you did not know to first remove the bushing set screw under the case. The bushing has to come out with the shaft.

2) Now that I have it apart - what is the best procedure for re-assembly?

Do I force the brass bushing on to the cross shaft, and then push the assembly into the case from the water pump side (I have the case split)?

Which way do the lips on the rubber water pump seal face? Towards the shaft gear (in) or towards the mechanical seal (out)?

Do I really need a special tool to install either seal (rubber seal or mechanical)? Unlike some of the older seals, these seals appear to push in until they stop - rather than using an 8.4mm distance. The rubber seal appears to push right up against the brass water pump shaft bushing and the mechanical seal has a metal lip that appears to mesh up against the case in the water pump housing. It doesn't seem like I would need the special tool. Looks like a socket could be used to push it in.

Any help that can be provided from someone who has done this on an IQR engine would sure be appreciated!

Thank you!

Markbano

Angermangement890 · Dec 13, 2012

Markbano said:
Hello

Rebuilding the engine on my son's 2009 IQR 600 Racer. I had to remove the oil/water pump cross shaft to clean it and remove some slight rust. I have a new water pump seal (rubber) and mechanical seal. A couple questions for our IQR engine experts:

1) Have you noticed that there is a brass bushing on the water pump side of the cross shaft (which is held tight by a screw in the bottom of the case) - but the parts diagrams and the IQR service manual never show it or mention it? The parts diagrams show (for the water pump side of the shaft) a thrust washer, a rubber seal, and then a mechanical seal. No bushing is mentioned nor is one shown in the diagram of the pump or the diagram of the case. Just wondering why that might be. The service manual says to simply remove the cross shaft through the water pump side of the case - but that would be a disaster if you did not know to first remove the bushing set screw under the case. The bushing has to come out with the shaft.

2) Now that I have it apart - what is the best procedure for re-assembly?

Do I force the brass bushing on to the cross shaft, and then push the assembly into the case from the water pump side (I have the case split)?

Which way do the lips on the rubber water pump seal face? Towards the shaft gear (in) or towards the mechanical seal (out)?

Do I really need a special tool to install either seal (rubber seal or mechanical)? Unlike some of the older seals, these seals appear to push in until they stop - rather than using an 8.4mm distance. The rubber seal appears to push right up against the brass water pump shaft bushing and the mechanical seal has a metal lip that appears to mesh up against the case in the water pump housing. It doesn't seem like I would need the special tool. Looks like a socket could be used to push it in.

Any help that can be provided from someone who has done this on an IQR engine would sure be appreciated!

Thank you!

Markbano

1. The bushing is not listed in the parts diagram as it is not a serviceable item from Polaris.

2. If you have removed the case bushing, lubricate the bushing and place it in your freeezer for an hour or so, warm the case upto about 125-175* in an oven and lubricate the bearing hole. Install the brass bushing by hand, make sure you scibe a mark indicating the position of alignment hole on the bushing/case so you know what to line up. You could also install the bushing via a press if you have one available.

Install the cross shaft, and put the oil pump delete plate back on. Install the seal plate with the lips facing in toword the cross shaft, the black/green side of the seal should be visible to you.

Using the Polaris seal installation tool, drive/press the mechanical seal into place. The tool MUST be used and the cross shaft MUST be in place. Failure to use the Polaris installation tool will result in immeadiate seal damage/failure.

The mechanical seal has a spring in it and is multi piece, the Polaris installation tool keeps the seal compressed as it in installed. If you use a socket for installation, be ready to buy another seal.

Markbano · Dec 13, 2012

Thanks for the help. Excellent detail. I very much appreciate it.

It is curious that any part would not be "Polaris Serviceable" since it is a Liberty engine. The shop manual for the sled could really get a guy in trouble because it says that the cross shaft can be removed from the water pump side but it clearly cannot be because the brass bushing would stop it. Clearly that is an error in the manual. Interestingly, the engine diagrams for the RR engine show the set screw on the bottom of the case but the diagrams for the R engine do not - even though both engines use the brass bushing and the set screw.

I have read that there are two methods for installing the mechanical seal without the special tool - which I know I would never use again, so I was hoping to not have to buy it....

First method is to use two sockets - one that fits the outer flange and one that fits the inner flange - and alternate between the two a few "taps" at a time so that both the inner and outer parts of the seal are pushed on to the shaft more or less together.

Second method is to use one socket - one that fits the outer flange - and place washers inside the socket to create the necessary inside depth to meet the inner surface of the mechanical seal so that both parts of the seal are pushed onto the shaft together.

What are your thoughts on this? I think I know what you're going to say but I figured I'd ask. Thanks again for the help. I really appreciate it!

Angermangement890 · Dec 13, 2012

The factory tool for installing the WP seal is like $11.... WP mechanical seal is $28... Cheaper to buy 1 seal and the install tool than multiple seals.

Markbano · Dec 14, 2012

Stuck.....

Help! OK. Put the bushing back in. Put the new thrust washers on the shaft. Put the shaft back in - had to gently pound it in from the oil side. Shaft is HARD TO TURN. Then, put oil seal bushing on and it becomes nearly impossible to turn the cross shaft. Need to put a regular screwdriver in the oil pump shaft end to get it to turn. I'm really confused. This is the same shaft and bushings I took out. Nothing has changed. Why would the shaft not want to turn now? I tried to flip the water pump shaft bushing the opposite way (thinking maybe there was a taper in the shaft that - tho my micrometer tells me there is no taper - and same result.

Any ideas? Thanks so much!

Mark

Angermangement890 · Dec 20, 2012

Markbano said:
Stuck.....

Help! OK. Put the bushing back in. Put the new thrust washers on the shaft. Put the shaft back in - had to gently pound it in from the oil side. Shaft is HARD TO TURN. Then, put oil seal bushing on and it becomes nearly impossible to turn the cross shaft. Need to put a regular screwdriver in the oil pump shaft end to get it to turn. I'm really confused. This is the same shaft and bushings I took out. Nothing has changed. Why would the shaft not want to turn now? I tried to flip the water pump shaft bushing the opposite way (thinking maybe there was a taper in the shaft that - tho my micrometer tells me there is no taper - and same result.

Any ideas? Thanks so much!

Mark

It is normal for the shaft to turn very hard after the seals are installed. The sealing surface is the shaft so it becomes difficult to turn, just installed 2 seals this past week, same result.

Also, you should have a total of 2 thrust washers, 1 on the front of the WP shaft and 1 at the rear by the WP shaft bushing.

Markbano · Dec 20, 2012

Thanks for the reply! Yes, I did eventually figure out that this is normal. Engine is back in the sled and running nicely.

I did use two new thrust washers. I have the shop manual for the sled so we put it together carefully. The manual does have some innacurate information in it but we figured our way through it.

Thanks again for the help!

Markbano · Dec 26, 2012

UPDATE

Well - Looks like AngerManagement was right. My mechanical seal leaked. My tool didn't work, obviously, so I edited my description out of my last post so as to not have anyone rely on it.

I have the Polaris tool (PN 2872010) and a new seal on the way. I had to order the tool from a dealer. Can't get it online.

I do have a question - and that relates to how far in the inner part of the seal should be when the mechanical seal is installed. I know the special tool sets the "depth" to 8.4mm but I don't know what that means. Should the inner part of the seal (the part that is on the shaft) end up so that it is pressing against the back of the impeller and (and against the washer on the back of the impeller)? If so - then I put my last seal on with the inner part set too deep - because it was not touching the back of the impeller when I put the impeller on.

I'm really hoping for some insight on this before I put the new seal on. Thanks much!

Angermangement890 · Dec 28, 2012

Markbano said:
UPDATE

Well - Looks like AngerManagement was right. My mechanical seal leaked. My tool didn't work, obviously, so I edited my description out of my last post so as to not have anyone rely on it.

I have the Polaris tool (PN 2872010) and a new seal on the way. I had to order the tool from a dealer. Can't get it online.

I do have a question - and that relates to how far in the inner part of the seal should be when the mechanical seal is installed. I know the special tool sets the "depth" to 8.4mm but I don't know what that means. Should the inner part of the seal (the part that is on the shaft) end up so that it is pressing against the back of the impeller and (and against the washer on the back of the impeller)? If so - then I put my last seal on with the inner part set too deep - because it was not touching the back of the impeller when I put the impeller on.
I'm really hoping for some insight on this before I put the new seal on. Thanks much!

Yes, the seal tool compresses the mechanical seal during installation from 19.4mm tall to 8.4mm tall, that is the depth they are referring to. The seal has a flange edge, so it is almost impossible to drive the lower seal plate to low with out damaging the entire seal. The mechanical seal should not be touching the waterpump impeller. The impeller is kept from hitting the mechanical seal by a washer on the shaft end. The washer is #3 in the parts diagram. The Polaris parts fich shows it used on all the IQR/HO based engines from 05-13.

Markbano · Jan 2, 2013

UPDATE:

The Polaris Seal Installation Tool is part no. 2872010. I cannot find it anywhere. Polaris/SPX tools has it online - but they require a dealer number and SPX account number and will not sell me one. JS Powersports tells me that they can't get the tool. I am trying to have a northern IL Polaris dealer get it for me but they are not very optimistic and even if they can get it they think it would take a long time. I am not in an area of Illinois with a dealer near me and the dealers that are a reasonable driving distance are all too busy to work on our sled any time soon.

It now looks like my season is toast. Any help that can be offered on where to get the tool would be very much appreciated. There is a seal installation tool on ebay but it is not clear that it is the right tool and there is no part number listed on the listing. Thanks!

stunt900 · Dec 15, 2014

The bushing is able to be replaced its part number 5010390 and is listed in the crankcase assembly not under oil water pump the bushing is discontinued from Polaris I have a 600 ho motor that the oil pump drive gear on the crank sheared off all parts were available from.Polaris but the bushing this is the one the little screw holds in place so I am.now having these bushings made to finish rebuilding my engine if any one needs a bushing let me.know.I'm having a short run of these made

Search

IQR Waterpump Seals

Markbano

Free Member

Angermangement890

Well-known member

Markbano

Free Member

Angermangement890

Well-known member

Markbano

Free Member

Angermangement890

Well-known member

Markbano

Free Member

Markbano

Free Member

Angermangement890

Well-known member

Markbano

Free Member

stunt900

Free Member

Similar threads