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i got a m10 skid in my nytro and i do not like that the skis dont even come off the ground at all an it handels to heavy on the skis any ideas
m10 skid
- Thread starter nytrocharged
- Start date
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Talk to Curt at Fastrax, he can get you set up with the springs you need for the amount of ski lift you want
Ski lift
I have the same problem with my m-10 only I dont see it as a problem when I'm climbing a steep run and my skiis stay planted like they are supposed to. Try loosening your front limiter straps then move your rear shock forward more with the adjustment blocks, the m-10 is designed for keeping the skiis on the ground. If you dont like it, sell it im sure you'd have no trouble.
I have the same problem with my m-10 only I dont see it as a problem when I'm climbing a steep run and my skiis stay planted like they are supposed to. Try loosening your front limiter straps then move your rear shock forward more with the adjustment blocks, the m-10 is designed for keeping the skiis on the ground. If you dont like it, sell it im sure you'd have no trouble.
Also you can buy the jack that moves the rear shock giving you easy on the hill adjustment.
ran some M10's and had the same problem, ended up selling em! Couldnt get em to work. WOULD NOT lift the ski's!!! If all you did was go up vertical hills all day long then yeah they work great but everything else sucks IMO.
Thats the best and worst part about the M10, I would give Curt at Fastraxs a call and have him set it up for you. I myself like to have a little more control of Ski lift and like to run Ezryde, but it really is all about what you like.
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Bought a jack from Trevor Cox at Mac's Machine and I can lift skis anytime with a 20 second adjustment. 250-836-3648
Also got front shocks from him, they are an airbag style with lots of volume, work very well at 90 PSI
Also got front shocks from him, they are an airbag style with lots of volume, work very well at 90 PSI
Whats the cost and is this 20 second adjustment any different than the 5 minute one by using the adjustment bolts.
You want more ski lift, trim your rear transfer block and 1/8 inch and see the difference, it thats not enough trim some more.. they are easy fix if you go too far.. fast sells some blocks to play with if you mess them up..
Curt- fastrax told me thats what he does.
Jim
Curt- fastrax told me thats what he does.
Jim
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ya totaly Jim, Cut the transfer blocks or just get smaller ones, loosin the limiter. m10 can be made to do whatever you want! how much room in the blocks before it transfers right now?
I tried trimming the blocks down, adjusting it in every way possible.
Talked to curt, zollingers, CMX, FAST, CR, and vanamburg (which is who installed it in one of his tunnels) And all gave me the same mounting points!
It was an M10 W2 but had the live rear axle. I have seen some sleds with em some without. I had about 3 grand in it before I finally gave it away for 1000 and have never looked back!
I will say that it rode really well though!
Talked to curt, zollingers, CMX, FAST, CR, and vanamburg (which is who installed it in one of his tunnels) And all gave me the same mounting points!
It was an M10 W2 but had the live rear axle. I have seen some sleds with em some without. I had about 3 grand in it before I finally gave it away for 1000 and have never looked back!
I will say that it rode really well though!
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thanks every one i really like the ride if i loosen my limter strap will i loose my float in deep pow. it would be nice if it did not steer like a tank
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my limit starp is maxed out an my rear shock is adjusted back to the second line back its not so much the transfur i wont just a bit lighter on the skies would be nicer in the trees
The front of my rail tips scrubbed right down to the metal on mine now I have to run limiters so tight it handles terrible.Suspension was from cr racing couldnt get any help or suggestions from anyone.Not to mention the rails bent about a foot from the back where the logo was cut out. Worst purchase I ever made.And it wasnt cheap.
I had to drop my front mount point a 1/2 inch down and it made a big difference seamed to take the heavy feel away.
polaris, any idea where you are at with the mount point now in relation to the driveshaft? Above/below center........
Thanks
Kirk
Thanks
Kirk
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Not sure if this will help you guys or not but the numbers that mark at cmx gave me are 7 and 1/2 back from drive shaft and 5/8 above center, that is for front tourqe arm. 25 inches between front and rear arms, rear arm even with drive shaft up and down. this is for an old metric with tison billet arms mounted with a cmx belt drive. I also cut 1/4 inch off the blocks,transfer problems are gone now,btw this is on a skidoo sled also.
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Macs Machine Mounting
Pic as requested
Here's the brackets Macs Machine uses for the Apex's with a drop and roll, gets the front mounting below the footwell without making a mess of the tunnel. They have two mounting holes for the front cross-shaft, one a little lower if you like a little more ski lift. My track was stretched so he added a set of holes to move the skid back, works very well, awesome ride. Highly recommend having Trevor install.
Pic as requested
Here's the brackets Macs Machine uses for the Apex's with a drop and roll, gets the front mounting below the footwell without making a mess of the tunnel. They have two mounting holes for the front cross-shaft, one a little lower if you like a little more ski lift. My track was stretched so he added a set of holes to move the skid back, works very well, awesome ride. Highly recommend having Trevor install.
Mounting of the M-10 is most important. Find a good installer, one who has a proven track record for top chassis builts and have them do it. It will save you alot of headache, time and money.
You got three in Canada I would use. Trevor at Macs Machine, Chad at Cr Racing or the Alpine boys.
Good luck
You got three in Canada I would use. Trevor at Macs Machine, Chad at Cr Racing or the Alpine boys.
Good luck
