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JB Weld on Bulk Head?? Yay or Nay

9
Nov 3, 2010
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I got a M6 for my wife to ride. Took it out and it had alot of play in the rear of the top left a arm. Rode it that way for awhile but finally tore it down this weekend. I found out that the bushing that is supposed to be in the bulk head was not there. This is the spot where the back bolt for the top A Arm goes through the bulk head (not sure if the guy before took it out or what) With no bushing and just the bolt there was lots of play and it even caused the hole to become egged out. My question is - Could a guy get away with filling the hole with JB Weld, grind it smooth, and then redrill the hole for the bushing? or do I need to take it somewhere to get it welded up??

I am going to try and get a picture up. The new bushing does fit in the hole pretty snug. I am concerned that it will eventually work towards where the bolt (without the bushing) did the damage.

Any advice would be greatly appreciated. THanks
 
Last edited:

Putzy

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Sep 30, 2008
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Better take it in and get it done right. A friend of mine tried to fix a motor mount with JB Weld. Had about 4 inches of good contact and it looked solid. Took it out to ride and cracked it within 5 minutes.
 

LoudHandle

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I would not use JB weld on anything I own (nor any of my friends or even enemies). Plus using it will render it un-weldable to do a real repair. I don't care that Paul Harvey endorses it, the stuff is worthless in my book. FWIW
 

summ8rmk

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I would get it welded. Jb weld is some awesome stuff if mixed correctly! But not usually a permanent fix!

Off topic a little but in defense of jb weld.
My friends and I all carry some jb kwik in our Toyota's. In 2003 I punched a couple holes in the bottom tank of my jeeps brand new radiator. I drained and collected most of the antifreeze. I then sanded the surface and sprayed it down with brake parts cleaner. I mixed the jb kwik and pushed it into and around the holes. Let it set 10-15 minutes. And dumped the antifreeze back in. That same radiator is still in that jeep to this day with the same jb kwik!
My buddy has the jeep now. As I got smart and started wheeling Toyota's.
 

Coldfinger

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Depending upon what is being repaired, JB can be considered either permanent or temporary (use your judgement).

JB Kwik is not as strong as the longer curing version of JB Weld. Look on their web site for specifics on strength. If you're out on the trail and need a quick fix, then obviously the Kwik is the choice between the two.
 

LoudHandle

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…………… In 2003 I punched a couple holes in the bottom tank of my jeeps brand new radiator. I drained and collected most of the antifreeze. I then sanded the surface and sprayed it down with brake parts cleaner. I mixed the jb kwik and pushed it into and around the holes. Let it set 10-15 minutes. And dumped the antifreeze back in. That same radiator is still in that jeep to this day with the same jb kwik!………………..

Yes, but that is not structural, and anything would have likely provided the same level of repair. RTV, Permatex, bubble gum, soap, a raw egg. I'll stand by my previously stated opinion of JB weld.
 

RobertTrivanovic

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Yes it would be recomended to get it welded. But since youv already rode it like this theres no reason not to at least try it right? Whats the worst that could happen?
 

LoudHandle

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Yes it would be recomended to get it welded. But since youv already rode it like this theres no reason not to at least try it right? Whats the worst that could happen?

If you do use an epoxy you will not be able to do a weld repair after. You will need to buy a new bulkhead or cut out everything that had epoxy on it to weld it. Again your call, your sled. I'm out, do what you want.
 

av8er

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Put in Bushing

You say the bushing is snug, I would just put in the bushing, tighten it up and forget about it. will probably last for years. or at least from what u told us, no pics.
 

Phizzer

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Oct 23, 2008
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Weld it up!! That is a focus point for your sled's suspension, and if you care at all about performance, durability, or longevity, welding would be the only way to go.
 

boondocker97

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Weld it and be done. The hastle of not having to take it apart to fix it again is going to be worth the $40.
 
M
Mar 18, 2011
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Manitoba
I got a M6 for my wife to ride. Took it out and it had alot of play in the rear of the top left a arm. Rode it that way for awhile but finally tore it down this weekend. I found out that the bushing that is supposed to be in the bulk head was not there. This is the spot where the back bolt for the top A Arm goes through the bulk head (not sure if the guy before took it out or what) With no bushing and just the bolt there was lots of play and it even caused the hole to become egged out. My question is - Could a guy get away with filling the hole with JB Weld, grind it smooth, and then redrill the hole for the bushing? or do I need to take it somewhere to get it welded up??

I am going to try and get a picture up. The new bushing does fit in the hole pretty snug. I am concerned that it will eventually work towards where the bolt (without the bushing) did the damage.

Any advice would be greatly appreciated. THanks
Both lower rear hoes on my 06 700 cf were like that, i used a lincoln spoolgun and alum welded the holes, rebored them and new bushings with j.b. weld to take up any space around the bushing to prevent this problem again. After 300miles of prarie snow drift pounding everything is as good as new!
 
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