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Go with the Assault or the Pro-RMK...Shocks and Tracks question.

Scott

Scott Stiegler
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That was my next question.
Are the Assault shocks longer than the RMK shocks?

I'm guessing YES.
 

mountainhorse

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Yes... they are longer.

Clearance is right at 5/16" at the fwd roof of the tunnel... that is with me measuring the distance with some different thickness sticks I had made prior to the ride.

The Polaris engineers dont think that clearance is an issue... I have a different opinion, but the sleds flat out work.

The solution to this is to run the 156" x 2.5" 3" pitch Camo Extreme with 7 tooth, 3" pitch drivers (smaller diameter) then run an Offset axle to take up the slight difference in length (if needed at all)... this will give you a bit better track clearance compared to the same track in a 2.86" pitch.

OR

A 162" x 2.5" 3" pitch track with 7 tooth drivers and NO offset axle needed.

2.86" pitch x 8 tooth.... 7.25" diameter ... 3.625" radius(this is stock on the RMK)

3" pitch x 7 tooth.... 6.68" diameter ... 3.34" radius

About .28" (hair over 1/4") more clearance than with the 2.86" pitch same track.
 
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Spaarky

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Scott.. If I was to buy a new sled it would probably be the ProRMK or the base RMK. Personally I would want a 163, but I am a big guy. I dont know what the Pro has over the standard except shocks. So with that said, if possible just the standard. I personally would like the narrower front than the Assault. I would then get a Challenger Extreme and Zbroz/Fastrax shocks.

I think there has been enough discussion on the Extreme to answer why on that. I was totally impressed with mine.

The Zbroz/Fastrax.. its a custom built shock for your weight and riding style. Yes the WE needles are nice, but for a little more money, I think you get a better value. The most obvious is the the shaft on the Zbroz is solid, the needle is not. The harder you beat on these shocks, the better they are. I got everything I was promised with mine. Shoot, when I ordered mine, Curt told me not to spend the extra to get the adjustable becasue they would be spot on. They were....

I understand the money question.. either way this is the direction I would go.
 

turboless terry

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Scott and anybody else that got to ride them:
I am looking for a new sled for my wife. She has a 06 summit with a mountain addiction rear suspension. You can pull it over on it's side with one hand on flat concrete. She loves that thing but it is old enough that I am tired of putting it back together. She hates the xp's. I was going to get her a cat but the 2011 polaris looked the coolest at the expo. When I rode all the 09 sleds I told her that the cat was the easiest to sidehill and the dragon was similar but had a nose heavy feel and the xp's were the worst. She has rode my turboed hcr and can tipp it up but it is too wide for her. I guess my real question is are the new one's way better than the 09 or 10's and why. Just knowing what she likes she wouldn't like the 09 I rode. If I get it for her and she doesn't like it I will have to narrow the hcr and give it to her. I would wait and rent one but I was going to sno check something.
 
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Spaarky

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Good info. Thanks Justin.

I didnt mention the rears. My big question was keeping the front end planted. I looked at bunch of different options. The one I looked at the hardest was the rear scissor M-10 conversion(dont remember who makes it).In the past, I have had about every rear skid under the sun. I just felt I never got my moneys worth.

I really wanted to stick with the stock skid. All around, IMO, its tough to beat, except for weight. Curt promised me with the proper set up, it would keep the nose down for climbing. The rear shock valving and set up made it. Got what I was promised again. I havent had it over 14lbs. Unless I am trying to do a wheelie, it does exactly what I want. I went to straight rails too.

I mention this, because I would guess you are going to consider a turbine down the road.
 

AndrettiDog

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The solution to this is to run the 156" x 2.5" 3" pitch Camo Extreme with 7 tooth, 3" pitch drivers (smaller diameter) then run an Offset axle to take up the slight difference in length (if needed at all)... this will give you a bit better track clearance compared to the same track in a 2.86" pitch.

OR

A 162" x 2.5" 3" pitch track with 7 tooth drivers and NO offset axle needed.

2.86" pitch x 8 tooth.... 7.25" diameter ... 3.625" radius(this is stock on the RMK)

3" pitch x 7 tooth.... 6.68" diameter ... 3.34" radius

About .28" (hair over 1/4") more clearance than with the 2.86" pitch same track.

That's just sneaky!
 
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pura vida

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MH, thanks for the info. yeah that is what i was afraid of with the clearance. i also don't feel that is enough. i also prefer not using 7 tooth drivers if i go to 3 pitch track b/c i feel that radius starts to get a little tight for the track to go around. so the question becomes which is worse, the tight clearance or the tight radius? and where is the cross over point when one is worse than the other? and when is there enough of both that it is a non issue?

my 07 mod has a 3/4 drop w/ a 7/8 roll, removed my front heat exchange, run a 3 pitch extreme with 8 tooth drivers. this has lots of clearance, well over an inch (i've forgot the exact numbers now) both in front and on the top.

i guess another d&r is the answer but is it really worth loosing the warranty? the 4 year was one of the main selling points i made to my wife...

what it comes down to is i'll probably just stick with the 5.1 track and just do robs mod. of course the powder claw seems to work pretty well... but probably not enough to justify the expense?????
 
S
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I added 2.86 drivers to my Rev and slapped a Camo Extreme in. I have probably less then an 1/4" clearance and I have not had any issues. Only thing I noticed was when I have the track a touch too lose and going down a hill hitting the brakes it sounds like it might be catching the front. Tighen it up and no longer an issue.
I never want to press on drivers again I can tell you that so I would take the tight clearance myself.
 

mountainhorse

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The 7 tooth 3" pitch drivers are not radically smaller... Rolling resistance is not an issue with them (been there done that... Also, EricW running the CE 2.5" on his Dragon for quite some time as well as others WITH 7 tooth drivers).

Almost doubling the clearance is a good thing.

Light, dry snow is less of a concern with clearance than wet/heavy snow (spring conditions).

A D&R is really not going to be possible with this chassis as the driveshaft is almost on the bulkhead as is.

I have looked into the 7 tooth driver situation for quite some time and I don't take it lightly to recommend it. (I'm putting 7 tooth 3" pitch drivers in my latest project)

In the end... do what feels best to you.

Cheers,
MH
 
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pura vida

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very true, very true. but it is still fun to speculate. i'll probably just run the stock track for the first year and then look into a CE w/ 7 tooths the next. i'm sure someone with come up with a d&r, they always do. will probably include an extended chaincase? we'll just have to see how things go when they actually get on the hill. enjoy.

pv
 

mountainhorse

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I've been talking with Robbie at Avid on the extended chaincase... He's into it... just not sure on the demand...Call him and tell him you are interested.

The only problem I see with D&R's is that it changes the geometry of sled.... How or to what extent is the question...But I do know that the new chassis out there (all mfgs) are getting more and more sensitive to changes in this area. Used to be that you had to do a D&R to just get a 2" paddle under a sled.

Every change has its benefit and cost.

IMO...Decreasing the size of the driver by .28" is the least invasive in regards to chassis geometry.
 
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pura vida

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The only problem I see with D&R's is that it changes the geometry of sled....

Agree 100% here. i didn't want to go as big as i did but that was all that was available when i bought mine. soon after others came out including holz w/ their standard 5/8 drop which would have been nice. definitely had transfer issues when i first put it back together. better now.


IMO...Decreasing the size of the driver by .28" is the least invasive in regards to chassis geometry.

this is also true and probably the best overall option with the new chassis, especially if it rides as nice as everyone is saying. i'll let someone else find out if it is better or worse with a d&r. i'll have to voice my interest in the extended chaincase though.

so the next question is, which is "better", a CE with 7tooth drivers or a PC with 8 tooth drivers? hmmm, probably get back to the clearance issue even with the PC with 8 tooth. without actually doing the math, in my head the 8 tooth still won't work...

MH, do you know if the shocks on the pro ride are the same length as the IQs? i'm wanting to swap my float R's over.
 
S
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I haven't been impressed with the PC. In certain snow conditions it seemed to trench worse then the CE. In certain snow conditions it couldn't get up the same hill the CE could...not easily mind you.
IMHO the CE is the best all around track and the way this season went I'm glad I had it.

So really how bad is the 5.1? I haven't spent hardly any time on one, the demo ride I went on was concrete and with 9000 miles on the sled the track seemed a bit soft. Worked REALLY well if you broke through and hit softer snow though.
 
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pura vida

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the 5.1 isn't horrible, there are just better tracks out there especially for the fairly wet snow i ride in most of the time. it is better with rob's mod.
 
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pura vida

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so i'm guessing you would have to run 7 tooth drivers if you went with a powder claw? mh?
 

Snodawg

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basically cut the tips off of the lugs down to about 2.1 inch from the 2.4 and then install screws into the paddles. do a search for f-bomb track mod and you will find a 100 threads

Thanks, I haven't been keeping up on the Poo stuff until I started pursuing the Pro RMK. Been over at the AC site, but things are looking silver now. Guess I didn't like being called "green" LOL
 
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