M5 with crankcase full of oil

Check valves are bad in the oil pump or the pump stuck part way open and let the oil res. dump into the case. Pull the belly pan and unbolt the banjo bolt on the oil line, let the case drain. It will still smoke real bad for a while. You may need to replace the pump, but check the adjustment and watch it closely. A friend of mine had his ski-doo dump the oil in over summer storage, bad thing was he got it started, bent the rods and took the crank out!

If it is leaking enough oil into the case that it you can barely turn it over, that is enough oil to cause damage. Drain that oil out before trying to turn it over again

If your M5 has the old fashioned twin round slide carbs, don't over look just a dirt needle and seat in one of the carbs, if it kept leaking gas into a cyl all summer, you likely have a crankcase full of black very thin oily crap /old gas with some oil. First pull to kick this mess right up into the top, foul the plug, crap coming out the exhaust gasket, pull plugs crank over very easy, you slowy work this out into the pipe and muffler.

So yeah, two options, oil line check valve bad, carb needle and seat bad/dirty/stuck open. So far my m5 has been good, lean jetting makes it hard to start each fall, or after three weeks of sitting in my trailer, but the old round slides have been ok.

Very common on an older m-series. my m7 did this after 3 seasons also. Just put plugs back in and keep pulling. The oil seeps/siphons slowly when it sits over the summer Replace plugs when done.

Guys I need to resurrect this thread because i have exactly the same issue going on with my son's 2005 Carbed M5. I will be ordering a check valve for the oil tank (if that is the proper part I need?) to stop the oil seepage but, my question is, how much oil do I have to get out of the crankcase before firing the sled up?

My son and I pulled at least (and this is no exaggeration) 2,000 times watching oil shoot out of the cylinders. There was originally heavy oil shooting out of each cylinder but, now, there is just a light mist of gas/oil mixture and when I put a fresh shop towel outside the cylinders and pull, I think there is more gas than oil coming out now. It's not thick anymore and it's thin and looks like light green gas on the shop towel.

I have tried the plugs a couple times and it fires but, after a couple pulls, I can feel a fluid lock starting again. I do not want to damage the motor, so out come the plugs and more pulling starts. Frankly, we are both sore as hell and sick of pulling. The oil level in the oil tank has not moved after all this pulling so, I think we are just dealing with what leaked into the crankcase.

What now? Can I fire this thing up?

This is the part I plan on ordering to stop the seeping. Is it the correct part?

http://countrycat.com/ccstore/index.../OIL_PUMP_[82742]/3|~82764/3|~82764|~0740-232

http://www.ebay.com/itm/NEW-OEM-Arc...ash=item3a8625bcc5:g:ODYAAOSwHnFVgvPT&vxp=mtr

Update: We dragged the M5 into the shop and put it up on the snowmobile lift. It still wouldn't start so I pulled the belly pan and removed the banjo bolt for the oil line. The oil line doesn't leak a bit when unhooked but, the crankcase dripped oil. Then I noticed the oil seemed thinner than before. I think gas was draining as well. So, I siphoned all the rest of gas from the gas tank and pulled off the carbs. The left carb (as you sit on sled) was completely full of oil. I cleaned it out. The right one was fine with just some gas and oil mixture in it. I put it back together and am letting the crankcase drain overnight. My questions are:

1. How could one carb be full of oil but not the other? I'm still trying to figure out how straight oil could leak into a carb?

2. What do I need to fix? What's going on here?

3. In the parts schematic I see three lines hooked to the oil pump. One is from the tank, one goes out to the banjo bolt the hooks to the bottom of the crank and where does the other one go. If it's the carbs, I may have my answer.

http://countrycat.com/ccstore/index.../OIL_PUMP_[82742]/3|~82764/3|~82764|~0740-232

4. Does anyone happen to have a spare oil pump they might be interested in selling? It looks like I need a 3006-976.

After seeing the routing of the oil lines, I think I found the answer to why one carb is full of oil (but why just one)? Maybe we cleaned out one with all of our pulling on the starter?

This has been good therapy responding to my own questions. Maybe someone can benefit from what I am learning as I go.

Here's another question: I have found 100 oil pumps for sale but, the part numbers are all different. Even a 2005 (same year) 500 Sabrecat has a different part number (because it has power valves maybe). A 2005 m7 also has a different part number.

Is it possible to rebuild this pump to make it stop leaking?

Maybe a pump off of an '06 carb'd m7? I dont remember the part #, but I know the efi and carb'd m7 oil pumps are different. I had the same problem on my carb'd m7, over the summer the oil tank would drain into case, id get it cleaned out and it would be fine all winter until long term storage again. Got tired of dealing with it so bought a new oil pump, which was not cheap, and then no more problems.

Thanks Vern. When my 09 M8 started acting up yesterday (see 09 M8 electrical gremlins post). As soon as the M8 finally started back up on the mountain, we headed back to the trailer to swap it for the M5.

The M5 starts just fine but smoked like a locomotive on the way up the mountain. After riding it for a couple hours the smoke and the shaking seems to have dissipated for the most part but, it still has a strange "percolating" sound between 4,500 and 4,900 RPM that it never had before. It now runs and accelerates as it should but, if you happen to hold the throttle between 4,500-4,900 it gurgles. It's kind of weird but, maybe it will just do that until I get an oil pump for the sled? Maybe some new plugs are in order?