I don't think that's a justified response to be honest. Motor issues due to wear and heavy-use really don't exist in the modern automotive world. I have never seen a well-maintained motor "wear out"....the rest of the vehicle, yes.
Let's compare 2012 gmc's
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I have run alot of iron and aluminum block race and street motors...honestly..the aluminum motors cool better and leak less due to the compatibility of the parts(alum. on alum.)as for brute block strength in a towing app? I doubt the iron block motor will last any longer..nor cool any better..most likely the opposite....I think if GM was worried about it they would have detuned the 6.2 even more then it is.....
In all my years in the auto industry, I have never seen a block fail. I have seen rods go through blocks from misuse/lack of maintenance, and I have seen a block crack on a Mustang that was making at least double the factory horsepower on a block with a known fault.
The only advantages to an iron block are lower cost, and they typically run quieter.
The only advantages to an iron block are lower cost, and they typically run quieter.
The 6.2 does not have the internal cooling channels that the 6.0 does.
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A
I have to agree with the assassin... Altho I would def prefer the 6.2 for everything I would put it thru, from all the reading I was doing when researching much to my dissapointment that heavy 6 liter was a power house compared to the speed maker of the 6.2... I find it disapointing the hype and propaganda from all the manufacuters and sorry.. but some of the toooo devoted people that drive them that claim mine is better than yours kinda thingy... Really... Guess I just couldnt afford to pay for that when I was that young... Dig deeper than the propaganda/my trucks better than your tuck trash and the info is there... Took me a bit of time to find it but not that diff...
Since it is aluminum it dissipates heat better and may not need the cooling channels.?
Maybe, but while aluminum gets rid of heat faster it does not handle heat as well as iron.
Make sense? Long hard amounts of heat will still hear up aluminum. The coolant will take the heat away.
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Make sense? Long hard amounts of heat will still hear up aluminum. The coolant will take the heat away.
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The debate is over
My 2012 Denali 2500 hd is in the garage, I have to say that I felt pretty damn fine driving that baby home. Thanks again for the info and discussion.
Thanks
A
My 2012 Denali 2500 hd is in the garage, I have to say that I felt pretty damn fine driving that baby home. Thanks again for the info and discussion.
Thanks
A
G
Nice!
Where are the pictures?
I like the Denali a lot! I don't like how the half tons have AWD though.
Where are the pictures?
I like the Denali a lot! I don't like how the half tons have AWD though.
I love how the 1/2 Ton Denali drives. Honestly love the AWD.
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why? its well documented it is the toughest t-case gm installs, it stops the uneven tire wear that plagues 4x's and it works flawlessly...good reason not to like it..........
I agree with Glenn.... That's the only reason i wouldn't get a Denali 1500... Why don't they just put the regular transfer case in that gets you low range and the ability to go into 2wd? What is the benifit to being in AWD on dry Pavement when it is 90 degrees in the summer? Just doesn't make sense to me...
The average person doesn't buy a Denali and take it off-roading where they need low range.
AWD system if far better to drive, far safer on a paved or snow packed road. It is moving power around to the wheels that need it giving you the best possible traction at all times. On dry pavement in the summer it is moving power to give you the best fuel economy.
Say your wife is driving her Denali, safe with AWD on a snow packed road, but when she gets into town and is parking it she doesn't have to deal with the front end locking and making it hard to turn the wheels, lock to lock while parking. It lets the inside will slip to make it easy to navigate. Nothing to push, nothing to shift in or out of, all automatic.
Driving it hard on a paved surface the power transfers forward before the rear wheels lose traction.
No, they operate different. Auto just engages 4x4. 50/50 split from front to back and no side to side.
Auto works great in an emergency but if it is kicking off and on, it is hard on the system. Either lock it in 4x4 or lock it in 4x2 knowing the roads are slick.
It is fine to leave on Auto, but you don't want it constantly engaging and disengaging.
What does the full time Denali transfer case do to transfer power side to side? Isn't that the Differential's job?
go out and look at your tires on your present truck..unless you are relegeous about rotating(like every 3000 miles) or never give it more then 1/8 throttle your tires will show much more wear on the rears as far as tread depth..that is due to driving in 2 by..every time you acelerate weather from a stop, on a corner, even passing gear on the hiway, it rolls the tires even if it doesnt flat out break them loose....AWD doesnt do that...awd wears tires extremely evenly, and adds safety in the handling department as well when sudden evasive moves are needed..I too thought a standard case was better..no way...awd is much better, my best friend rebuilds t-cases and axles all day everyday for a company called youngs gear..thats all they do...in 8 years..they have seen one damaged AWD case..it caught a curb when a woman slid off the road..snapped the case in half..thats it..they average 1 part time gm case over haul a day year round(summer building cores for winter..winter just fixing all the tore up cases)..most common failure...metal wear clip comes out of case allowing pump housing to eat a hole in the case and pump the oil out...
like MH said..dont run auto ..it will smoke the viscous coupler out of it in no time..also tire diameters on each corner are huge to the life of the case..take a tape measure, measure from the ground to the rim /tire lip at the top of the rim....make sure every tire regardless of air pressure needed..is less then 1/4" of ea. other...(I shoot for 1/8" but I am a picky sob) and service the diffs and case often(I do mine every 20000 miles)..make darn sure when the engine oil is done they check and verify fluid levels as well..........
it works with the ABS computer to lock unlock the frt end..the design of the case supposedly allows the abs system to respond quicker..go drive one..they are a very very dialed setup...(and I cant stand ABS on my personal rigs(messes with my abilities when i hang it out on the edge)..but the current setups are far better then even just a few seasons ago...
Huh... Crazy! Well that sounds alot better than i thought. The new one's must be alot better than the old one's. Seems all the stories i hear around here about the 01-06 escalade and denali's is they tear up front differencial's all the time. GM must have figured that out on the new one's.
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