tki big wheel info

IHPulling · Oct 30, 2018

im looking at putting a tki big wheel kit on don't know weather to do 8 9 or 10" anyone have opions on them? how do you like them? and what all improved for you switching to them besides less rolling resistance. is it harder on the rails going to the big wheel kits? thanks in advance

SRXSRULE · Oct 30, 2018

Were you around here in the early to mid 2000's ? Big wheel kits were all the rage!
Back then there was some stuff the be gained because the OEM's used 3 and 4 wheel axles, the wheels were 6-6.5" and the tracks were rigid and heavy.

Now days the OEM's use bigger rear wheels and most only run 2 on the rear axle, plus the tracks are now lighter and thinner.

There is almost nothing to be gained on the rear axle....but if you can fit bigger drivers up front there is something to be gained there!

kylant · Oct 31, 2018

Putting a new track on the sled right now. Camso CE 3" 156.
should I put bigger rear wheels (8") on instead of the stock 7"?
any reason too (take up the extra track length)?

SRXSRULE · Oct 31, 2018

kylant said:
Putting a new track on the sled right now. Camso CE 3" 156.
should I put bigger rear wheels (8") on instead of the stock 7"?
any reason too (take up the extra track length)?

Is your sled a chain case or belt drive? they have different rails because the belt drive uses a 2.86" pitch track which actually makes your Original track a 154. If its a chain case sled then it has a 3.0" pitch track and is a 156.

So to answer your question about the wheels... It depends. If you do put bigger wheels on you should also install an offset axle. If your wheels end up a 1/2" below your rails (hyfax) thats going to cause issues.

Scott · Oct 31, 2018

You will definitely need to look into an offset able to lift the axle up.
You DON'T want the wheels hanging below the bottom of the rails at all.

sumtinwong · Oct 31, 2018

I've let the wheels stick down on some older sleds 02-04 and never hade a problem. that being said the tracks these days are a bit different and cant say if they would hold up with out blistering or wearing them out from the in side out ... their again if you go through a track every year might be ok still yet? I would say if a track lasts you 1000-1500 miles you might get away with it but if your track is lasting you 3-5000 you should probably get the swing arm kit. now if I am remembering right if you get a offset axel with the big wheel it takes up a very small amount of slack witch is why you can buy a offset and big wheel and just put it on your sled without changing your track length. we used to use the big wheels {no offset} to get a 136 go on a 133 just because we could always find a 2in 136 back in the day but the 133 always were a PTA to find with a decent paddle.

Killer Time Racing · Nov 1, 2018

And when you get done with your *Bling*

No they are not cool!!!

You can take the offsets off and put a 151 on a 144 by putting them on backwards and sticking out the back. That's after you show your buddies all the air you get and eat your tunnel because you never raised your bump stops!

Make sure you use an Antistab kit too so it's not Eating your track from the extra leverage.

I've ran plenty of 9s and matched in front with a 9 tooth driver but those are in drag sleds with huge clearance being they run 1.25 tracks and 1.5 chisels

goridedoo · Nov 1, 2018

They say they help with reversing in deep snow, biggest advantage IMO. I think most of the offset axles for the Poo are made for 9” wheels.

156” will work with the stockers I believe but you wont have much or any adjustment left, thats the way it was on the Pro chassis anyway.

kylant · Nov 1, 2018

SRXSRULE said:
Is your sled a chain case or belt drive? they have different rails because the belt drive uses a 2.86" pitch track which actually makes your Original track a 154. If its a chain case sled then it has a 3.0" pitch track and is a 156.

So to answer your question about the wheels... It depends. If you do put bigger wheels on you should also install an offset axle. If your wheels end up a 1/2" below your rails (hyfax) thats going to cause issues.

Well, my sled is an Axys SKS, with a chain case. It came with 2.6", 2.86 pitch track (snowcheck ordered).

Last year I ran a CE 2.5", 2.86, center ported 155",

I am putting on a CE 3", 3.0 pitch, 156", center ported, with a new driveshaft and 3.0 pitch drivers

I just compared part numbers for the SKS 155, 2.6" and the RMK 155, 3". The rails, rear wheels, and axle part numbers are all identical

Sheetmetalfab · Nov 1, 2018

SRXSRULE said:
Is your sled a chain case or belt drive? they have different rails because the belt drive uses a 2.86" pitch track which actually makes your Original track a 154. If its a chain case sled then it has a 3.0" pitch track and is a 156.

So to answer your question about the wheels... It depends. If you do put bigger wheels on you should also install an offset axle. If your wheels end up a 1/2" below your rails (hyfax) thats going to cause issues.

The only “issue” having the wheels 1/2” below the rails will change is slightly tame the 155 wheelie factor.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

Scott · Nov 1, 2018

Sheetmetalfab said:
The only “issue” having the wheels 1/2” below the rails will change is slightly tame the 155 wheelie factor.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

You'll also take the risk if damaging the wheels when they hang below the rails.

Sheetmetalfab · Nov 1, 2018

Scott said:
You'll also take the risk if damaging the wheels when they hang below the rails.

Not trying to be obdurate, but wouldn’t the loads the rear wheels are subjected to be nearly identical to a sled that has rail extensions?

What do you think?

SRXSRULE · Nov 1, 2018

Scott said:
You'll also take the risk if damaging the wheels when they hang below the rails.

This is exactly the "issues" Ive had with running wheels below the rails.
If your ridding hard pack trails or doing any jumps and landing on hard/frozen snow or dirt its very likely to damage a wheel or bearing. Back when you could replace the bearing in wheels, I had them break out the snap ring groove and allow the wheel to break off. luckily back then I still ran 3 rear axle wheels and was able to swap them around to ride it out.
I also cracked a fabcraft wheel doing the same thing. All of this was from trying to run a longer track without the correct parts

SRXSRULE · Nov 1, 2018

Sheetmetalfab said:
Not trying to be obdurate, but wouldn’t the loads the rear wheels are subjected to be nearly identical to a sled that has rail extensions?

What do you think?

Not exactly.
With a rail extension, or cut up rails like polaris has been doing for years now you are only talking about 4-6" of unsupported track. When you lower the rear wheels a 1/2" below the rails the track clips dont even touch the hyfax for the last 12-18" depending on how long the rail is and how tight the track is.

IHPulling · Nov 2, 2018

im running a belt drive and thanks for all your guys info I will just stick with stock I guess. I don't want to break a rail or blow a bearing. Just seemed like the big wheels were getting talked up from what I googled.

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tki big wheel info

IHPulling

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