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Need large drop brackets, I have an 09 m8' drop bracket, wondering if anyone has put on proclimb brackets into an m8. CR Racing has some nice ones for $250.
Proclimb drop bracket on m8?
- Thread starter ippielb
- Start date
Are you talking about needing a stock one, or adding more drop?
The thing to do is move the skid forward with pc rails
The thing to do is move the skid forward with pc rails
I
I want to add more drop in my sled so I can clear the cooling rails if I add a larger track. My sled has an 09m8 tunnel section and suspension in a 2010 snopro race chassis and there's a tip up in the tunnel between the drivers and the drop brackets so when my 2.25" track goes around it clips the cooling rails in the corners when I get in heavy snow, I want to put on a 2.6" or 3" track so I want a bigger drop bracket, I added smaller idler wheels by the drop bracket so it clears the 2.25" now without problem.
So basically, the proclimb drop brackets drop 5" at the bottom hole, the m8 is like 3" drop. I would be able to put it down as much as I need. I will have to add 7 tooth drivers to clear the heat exchanger.
Interesting little change, going from a 6.38" upper idler wheel to a 5.63". Gives extra clearance for the track in the tunnel, weighs 200grs less, then since the track doesn't go as high into the tunnel it makes it more slack, so you tighten up your track, gain more surface area of track on the snow.
I'm not sure what all your doing but the m would clear a 2.6 stock.
If you do the bolts, then both have to drop to maintain suspension geometry. If you do it 1/2" you also should go back 1/2". That will keep the geometry the same.
If you do the bolts, then both have to drop to maintain suspension geometry. If you do it 1/2" you also should go back 1/2". That will keep the geometry the same.
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Yes, right now I have the front arms in the upper holes, and will drop them both the same. Good info on the backwards as well. This is a custom sled with a rear section of a tunnel from an m8 so clearance is not the same, I have a tip up in my tunnel between the drivers and the drop brackets that's what's getting me into trouble.
K
I find WyoBoy to be a wealth of very good info !
So your rear mount is behind the tip up of the tunnel. So you need longer drop brackets because the bracket is now being mounted on the part of the tunnel that is rising vertically.
So is the distance of the rail tips to the front arm mount on the racer rails the same distance As the M skid?
So is the distance of the rail tips to the front arm mount on the racer rails the same distance As the M skid?
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First part is spot on.
It has an m8 skid, I will get pictures they will help a lot more then me explaining.
When the sled sits on concrete, the rear of the skid seems to rise. The tips of the lugs don't even touch the ground. So I think dropping the rear would help with my trenching problem.
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You are right, you need to drop the rear mount.
I'm interested in if your rail tip to front arm mount in rail is the same from stock skid to M skid
I'm interested in if your rail tip to front arm mount in rail is the same from stock skid to M skid
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I can't get measurement for stock skid because i don't have it.
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That's how it was when I got it, only ridden I once in mountains, trenched like a turd. I am going to loosen the shock. Some people say two turns from completely loose?
