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Gripper ski design makes the PRO useless

A
Nov 26, 2007
600
284
63
Alaska
Finally got a few miles on my 2013 PRO only to run into this ski rubber issue. When I go to lay it over on a steep sidehill the hill-side ski just digs in and everything comes to a screeching halt with the ski bent up at a 90. The first time it happened I thought it was a fluke but its has happened multiple times since and is completely unpredictable. Are several hundred dollar aftermarket skis the only solution?

Its obvious the hinge point on the ski is too far back, and the rubber is way too small to to keep the ski level in this situation.

Has anyone else experienced this? Both my parents and my brother have PRO's and they have all had this happen, especially in spring snow.

On a side note this ski itself is great - decent tracking and flotation. This sled is unstoppable otherwise!
 

snowman80

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Sep 18, 2011
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ND
I know a lot of people are saying aftermarket skis aren't worth the money if you're replacing the gripper skis. There's even some cat guys putting grippers on their sleds. I thought the grippers work good.
 

Powderforlife907

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Dec 14, 2011
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I haven't had any problems yet but I have been riding low elevation lately. Are you talking about the soggy snow that sucks to ride in period?
 
A
Nov 26, 2007
600
284
63
Alaska
I just checked and they are installed correctly. My family had their dampeners replaced under warranty because the skis got so crooked it cracked the rubbers.

Snow was pretty good. Set up but not mashed potatoes yet. I have some video of it I will post up later.
 

flying frenchman

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Jan 27, 2009
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Alberta, Canada
I've also had this happen. More in the spring, sled stops dead in it's tracks. The ski folds up and sometime it faces backwards. I was always supposed to check if two rubbers would fit under there. Now that you bring this up I'dd check but my sleds blown up and at the dealer.
 
T

trackvs2wheels

Well-known member
Nov 26, 2007
1,762
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Monument, CO
I've also had this happen. More in the spring, sled stops dead in it's tracks. The ski folds up and sometime it faces backwards. I was always supposed to check if two rubbers would fit under there. Now that you bring this up I'dd check but my sleds blown up and at the dealer.

If you have to use two rubbers she isn't worth it bro;):jaw::jaw:
 

frontierfire

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Nov 30, 2008
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Eagle River
I never have any problems side hilling but I do usually blow a out a set of the rubbers before end of season, my 12 already needs them replaced this also happened on my 08 with grippers I actually had one completely push out up at lost lake.
 
S
Dec 1, 2007
120
9
18
One thing i found helped is to fill the cavity under the rubber with clear silicone, it stops the area under the rubber from filling with water and freezing, i found this makes them last way longer, while you have the skis off don`t forget to drill drain holes in the rest of the ski to let water drain out .
 
W
Nov 26, 2007
197
58
28
Powville, WA and BC
I also had the same problem. I think a lot of the problem comes from certain snow types and riding style. So...I was searching around on here and found a post where someone said use the CA ski rubbers. I ordered and installed and the problems went away.
 

skibreeze

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Dec 4, 2005
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I find that the skis do come back far too easily as well. I replace the rubber bumpers often and I also use 2 per side to try to keep them from moving so easily. I'm still not thrilled with the results. I would like to see a better solution.
 

frontierfire

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Nov 30, 2008
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Eagle River
I also had the same problem. I think a lot of the problem comes from certain snow types and riding style. So...I was searching around on here and found a post where someone said use the CA ski rubbers. I ordered and installed and the problems went away.

Where did you order the C&A ski rubbers from? thanks
 
A

ak49er

Well-known member
Dec 10, 2008
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Big Lake, AK
I noticed this too with the Grippers, but I had attributed it too the shocks just being way too lightly valved.

The problem "dissapeared" when I put the Sly-Dogs on, but they had hella' stiff rubbers on them, so much you have to work to get those sumbishes on.

But the 'Dogs have the pivot point further back on the skis, so I am not sure if it was the rubbers, or the pivot point.

But still, if I slam the sled to one side, and carve like my life depended on it, like a full-on 180* turn in a 6' radius, I can fold that inner ski right inside, and fly cross ways over the bars.

Rubbers, pivot, valving?
 

die hard poo

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Apr 10, 2008
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Mine does the same, the rubber IMO is too soft. Mine will do it when I do a downhill turn and then my inside ski will stick, then I will pivot around and wash out. I have to be careful about in certain snow conditions for sure. I replace my rubbers twice a year, I love the gripper ski, just wish there was an alternative to the rubber.
 

wjl

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Mar 29, 2008
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Eden, UTAH
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Blown Motor

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I have trimmed down SlyDog rubber sin the past too and used them, they seemed to be a bit stiffer, and if you call them they probably will send just the rubbers for a minimal cost.
 
J

Jaynelson

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Nov 26, 2007
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Nelson BC
I know what you mean...sometimes it helps to do the tightest turn possible with a little speed....but if you don't know it's coming it can def catch you off guard. It makes for a fine balance between a mellow turn and a super aggressive one. I'm lazy and just ride knowing that, but I would guess its more in the shock valving, ski rubbers and geometry (or some combination thereof) than the skis themselves.
 
A

ak49er

Well-known member
Dec 10, 2008
390
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Big Lake, AK
Trimming down the rubbers on the 'Dogs most likely works for sure, I have seen someone use this method and fold a ski foward at speed, and end up in a very bad way.

I have posted somewhere on here a detailed expalnation of how to "wedge" them in there.

The microwave version:

With the spindle sitting on the rubber.

Sled on shop floor, no dollies.

4x4 under inside edge of ski you are working with, stand on the opposite edge of the ski, (not easy) bend down and start the bolt in, with a little bouncing (I'm 185#) and a nice light tap on the head of the bolt (carefull not to mash the threads inot the bushing on the other end) finish putting the bolt in.

In effect you are "mashing" down the rubber to get the bolt to slide through the bushing.

The hard part is keeping the rubber centered in the ski saddle-to-spindle contact area.

MY two regrets:

1) Not taking the time to drill for a grease Zerk fitting at the spindle.

2) Not "shimming" the slop out of the spindle to ski bushing area.

It's too much of a PITA for me to go back now.

Gonna' do it on the next sled for sure.
 
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