Are you running the track it came with or something more aggressive? To keep it from eating belts especially with a new rider go with 19/40 or 42 gearing, this sled is notorious for being over geared.. This will give you a good feel for what to do with the clutch weights and springs. If you plan on running it in deeper snow set the front shock on the skid with very little spring pressure. This sled was not known for getting up on the snow very well. If you have the skill build some drop brackets out of 1/4" aluminum plate for the rear skid mount,, kind of in an upside down triangle shape. raise the the tunnel up an 1" or two. This will help keep the running boards out of the snow better.. Try the lower gearing first before you waste money on weights and springs.. If you can, get the 15 wide sprockets and chain as well. Check the gearing it probably has 20/39 which is way too high geared. Play with the front suspension spring pressure as well less is better but watch out for too little ski pressure if you road ride very much because it will push in the corners.. Hope this helps.. With the riser plates for the rear make them tall enough to tie into the inside of the tunnel above the original mount,, drill a few holes through the aluminum plate then through the side wall of the tunnel use like 1/4 bolts and nylock nuts to hold the plate to the tunnel then spread the tunnel little and slide it over the skid arm then drill a hole for the upper arm mount. Use a bike tie down to hold the rear arm from coming unsprung I make it sound more difficult than it really is to do this cheap mod. It makes a difference in how the sled works in deeper snow....
