Home insulation?s for home builders or guys with home construction experience?

zr600 · Jan 26, 2013

I want to get my house insulated better. When it is cold and windy we can feel drafts in our house. It was built in 06 i don't think the draft is really comming through the windows. I think they used the cheapest insualation in the walls it is 2x6 construction. I was thinking off taking off the siding and putting on some closed cell foam insulation under the siding. But would everything line up right as in windows and doors? What about the j channel for the sidding would that have to be changed for some wider stuff? Plus there is already a wrap on the outside under the siding i have been told that the wrap doesn't really do anything or matter since osb is rated to breath some much moisture. Just wondering what my options are to get rid of these drafts without a whole remodel.

snow_god · Jan 27, 2013

I did the same thing to my house a couple yrs ago. I put 3/4 syrofoam on, was the thickest i could get by with without having the j-trim stick past the windows and brickmolding around the doors. Plus u can get it in tongue and grove to help seal it alittle tighter. As far as needing different j-trim u should beable to cheat alittle on the overlap from piece to piece to make up the extra thickness u added on the corners. But i u only have one piece of siding between a outside corner and a door or window ur pry gonna run into problems as u wont have enough lenght to get in j-trim.

LoudHandle · Jan 27, 2013

I'm getting ready to do mine this summer in Alaska. Going to pull the siding, take out the fiberglass and shoot it with 5" of polyurethane spray foam. Should be an R-35 when done, plus it is a vapor barrier. Re wrap it with Tyvex and reside it. No height change. A bit more cost but worth it in the long run with our fuel costs. Hope this helps.

JSCC · Jan 27, 2013

zr600 said:
I want to get my house insulated better. When it is cold and windy we can feel drafts in our house. It was built in 06 i don't think the draft is really comming through the windows. I think they used the cheapest insualation in the walls it is 2x6 construction. I was thinking off taking off the siding and putting on some closed cell foam insulation under the siding. But would everything line up right as in windows and doors? What about the j channel for the sidding would that have to be changed for some wider stuff? Plus there is already a wrap on the outside under the siding i have been told that the wrap doesn't really do anything or matter since osb is rated to breath some much moisture. Just wondering what my options are to get rid of these drafts without a whole remodel.

Adding the foam exterior insulation will not only help with the R factor, it will stop the thermal bridging caused by a single wall stud cavity. It will also help as an air barrier to stop the drafting you are feeling. Go as thick as you can but any amount will help. While you have your exterior exposed, tape all your plywood seams with a seam tape, I like the 3m brand my self. Then apply the foam board and tape those seams as well. In the mean time, you would be surprised how much air is transferred through the electrical box's and exterior penetrations. Go through and silicone the backs and around the sides of your electrical box's and all penetrations on the exterior walls. It will help a ton.
Spray foam insulation is a fantastic air barrier and a great insulator. It however will not stop thermal bridging through the studs. Adding the exterior insulation will do a far better job at this point. I would try and figure out how to add 2" board though. If you are going as far as pulling the exterior down you might as well do it the best you can.
I hope that helps.

snow_god · Jan 27, 2013

JSCC said:
In the mean time, you would be surprised how much air is transferred through the electrical box's and exterior penetrations. Go through and silicone the backs and around the sides of your electrical box's and all penetrations on the exterior walls. It will help a ton.

^^Agree. Forgot about them, but deff seal off the back side of them. amazing how much air can transfer through them.

LoudHandle · Jan 27, 2013

I also have some new construction planned. Leaning towards the Raycore staggered stud panels. Still have the thermal bridging on the top and bottom plates but you have that regardless, and it's miles ahead of stick built and fiberglass.

Zerrman · Jan 27, 2013

Drafts

I think those guys are nuts! Your house was built in 2006 which isnt very old. There are certain requirements that had to be met by code. Usually 2x6 construction is gona allow for better insulation factor as well as the tyvek alone with whatever siding you have you R factor is gona be alot better then most right there. Im gona bet and Im a licensed contractor that if you take off the trim around your windows and doors that the windows havent been sealed correctly and taped around as well as the doors havent been spray foamed and sealed correctly. Your house is sheet rocked Im assuming so you can only get drafts from the OBVIOUS places that being windows and doors. You can also check your floor registers to make sure they havent come loose under the home which Ive seen happen several times which allows cold air from under home. Other thing to check is your exhaust fans in kitchen and bath to make sure they are plummef out and they are closing correctly. Thats were I would look. To re move siding on a house that new is CRAZY and a waste of money. Save it for a new sled.

THAT JUST MY TWO CENTS

JSCC · Jan 27, 2013

LoudHandle said:
I also have some new construction planned. Leaning towards the Raycore staggered stud panels. Still have the thermal bridging on the top and bottom plates but you have that regardless, and it's miles ahead of stick built and fiberglass.

Actually you can still do a double wall framed house and stop the thermal bridging at the plates. I have one under construction right now that has a wall r value of 43 with blown fiberglass. The cost of labor are higher but it is surprising how the costs of not using a 2x6 vs using two 2x4's are not that far apart.
But there are many ways to skin that cat for sure.

JSCC · Jan 27, 2013

Zerrman said:
I think those guys are nuts! Your house was built in 2006 which isnt very old. There are certain requirements that had to be met by code. Usually 2x6 construction is gona allow for better insulation factor as well as the tyvek alone with whatever siding you have you R factor is gona be alot better then most right there. Im gona bet and Im a licensed contractor that if you take off the trim around your windows and doors that the windows havent been sealed correctly and taped around as well as the doors havent been spray foamed and sealed correctly. Your house is sheet rocked Im assuming so you can only get drafts from the OBVIOUS places that being windows and doors. You can also check your floor registers to make sure they havent come loose under the home which Ive seen happen several times which allows cold air from under home. Other thing to check is your exhaust fans in kitchen and bath to make sure they are plummef out and they are closing correctly. Thats were I would look. To re move siding on a house that new is CRAZY and a waste of money. Save it for a new sled. THAT JUST MY TWO CENTS

While I agree with you it shouldn't be necessary, I have seen builders make the selling point of a home it's 2x6 construction and only use r 13 batts in them. Pretty surprising what some builders will do to make or save a buck.
Keep in mind, what one thinks is good enough don't mean the next will feel the same way.

rmkMatt · Jan 27, 2013

Do you have a wood or pellet stove by chance?

m8magicandmystery · Jan 27, 2013

rmkMatt said:
Do you have a wood or pellet stove by chance?

if so outside combustion air is highly recommended..

zr600 · Jan 28, 2013

No wood or pellet stove.

zach477 · Jan 28, 2013

Zerrman said:
I think those guys are nuts! Your house was built in 2006 which isnt very old. There are certain requirements that had to be met by code. Usually 2x6 construction is gona allow for better insulation factor as well as the tyvek alone with whatever siding you have you R factor is gona be alot better then most right there. Im gona bet and Im a licensed contractor that if you take off the trim around your windows and doors that the windows havent been sealed correctly and taped around as well as the doors havent been spray foamed and sealed correctly. Your house is sheet rocked Im assuming so you can only get drafts from the OBVIOUS places that being windows and doors. You can also check your floor registers to make sure they havent come loose under the home which Ive seen happen several times which allows cold air from under home. Other thing to check is your exhaust fans in kitchen and bath to make sure they are plummef out and they are closing correctly. Thats were I would look. To re move siding on a house that new is CRAZY and a waste of money. Save it for a new sled. THAT JUST MY TWO CENTS

I flipped a foreclosure 2 years ago that was 2 years old and had terrible drafts throughout the house. It was a cookie cutter home so I knew it was built cheap but at the time I was living in a very similar price point home also in a cookie cutter neighborhood with no problems. Sealing the windows and doors CORRECTLY made a night and day difference. I also had to place sheet metal wind brakes in front of the exhaust fan vents so the wind wouldn’t blow the vent open forcing cold air into the house. I owned the property for 3 months (Jan, Feb and March). First month gas bill was $130 and the second month was down to $80 and that month was colder on average than the previous month and was also lower than my heat bill at my personal home.
I am lucky enough to be an engineer who has access to a thermal imagery camera. Rent one for $100 and check out where your cold air is coming in at, it could save you a lot of time and money.

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Home insulation?s for home builders or guys with home construction experience?

zr600

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