Turbo reed setup

Tonysnoo · Oct 22, 2011

I ran double reeds on my old M7/1000 carb turbo with excellent luck, season before last.

Last season I ran a home brew version of the OVS with single four petal reeds...... stops opened up to aprox 12mm. No problems so far(intercooler?).

I picked up a set of OVS stops at the SLC snow show this weekend. It will save me from modifying my reeds.

One thing that I would like to mention for those who choose to double stack reeds. There are two different reed stops. The stock 6/7/800s use a design that limits part of the reed flex. The M1000 stops allow more of the reed to flex. I can't tell you if one is better than the other for a turbo or reed life. I did use M1000 stops on both of my projects.

gus bohne · Oct 23, 2011

The Stepped stops Tony is refering to are not on my turbos due to the boost levels run.
My concern is the hinge point being further out allowing the petal, to fatigue immediatly behind that hinge or directly in front of the screw holes.

The smooth radius for boost is important TO ME..

Tony, I strongly feel lower charge temps mean less hot charge lean popping and much better reed life.

reed cage angle is a strong point, when pressure fed the volume goes up, the velocity goes up, the taller opening of the larger angle provides the window area and tensioning. the flatter double v stacks would require such a heavy mass and tensioned petal to survive, flow would be low and petal life short.

TSR has a fun reed program , its very enlightening.

wider stopper angles mean more deflection of the petal . be carefull we dont fatigue that joint..

The DNE quad is using the above recommended setup with that damn 4204 Garrett pushing thru them and loving it...( and 44 mikuni roundslides )LOL

gus

rusty rider · Oct 23, 2011

Gus

what do you think of running a four pedal single stack with the extended stops instead of double stack with stock stoppers? would that have even better throttle response?

gus bohne · Oct 24, 2011

Rusty, I love it !! but in my trials at 5 psi trail riding they lasted 3 hours.

remember,, this is not going to be fixed easy, the end result we strive for is response of a stocker with the strength to handle a blower !!! thats a unrealistic achievement in my eyes.

like a big cam ,, we need more spring pressure to deal with the lifts and durations of turbocharging..we push more thru ( lift ) and for a longer period ( softer reed tension of stock vs the constant pressure on the petal to open ).

the boost pressure is constant as long as the throttle is open..the reeds ( intake valves and springs ) need to be correctly tensioned to act accordingly.

I hate the doubled reed,, it kills me to have to deal with it,, I see the sirflow on the dyno go up with stock single petals and I also see the power and egts flutter..

with doubled 4 finger reeds its the compromise in tension and open angle that I was most comfortable with. fuel flow was super flat and consistent from run to run..

Gus

I believe a barrel valve would be the best,,( spool ).

rusty rider · Oct 24, 2011

Appreciate the words of wisdom! I bought the extended stops a while back, being I already got them, should I use them with the four pedal reeds doubled up, or do you prefer the stock ones? The other night I checked how far they open up with a digital caliper and it was dead nuts on 13mm (09 stock m1000 reads and stoppers)

m8matt · Oct 25, 2011

I've run double stack m1000 reeds for over 1000 miles at 14 pounds boost. They still look good. I did change them out this year as preventative measure.

mk2g60 said:
Boyesen turbo reeds are holding up well. Double stack stock reeds don't last long especially if your running high boost

Destroyer · Nov 10, 2011

Boondocker has a turbo reed that is recommended to be double stacked. Maybe it doesn't hurt the bottom end as much??? not to sure. My first turbo sled is on the way!!!!

M8Freerider · Nov 14, 2011

I took Gus's recommendation and stacked the 800 / 900 zr reeds. Went for a ride on the weekend and the machine worked awesome. Response off idle was great (nice and snappy) and felt good all the way through to wot. I am running 10lbs of boost (2010 M8 Cutler stage 2). I decided to turn down the boost (was curious) and the response was pretty consistent all the way down to about 4lbs before it started to get boggy. Keep in mind this was without any adjustments to fuel mapping.

Thanks for the info Gus!

Eli · Nov 14, 2011

Are the 800/900Zr reeds the same part number as the m's?

M8Freerider · Nov 17, 2011

Reed part number is 3005-878. Used on the old ZL/ZR,Kingcats and pre HO M series.

Eli · Nov 17, 2011

I have two full sets of barely used zr/m series reeds that we are referring to here that I would sell. I picked them up for my Poo to double stack, but didn't want to trim them to my double v formation.

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mt st helens · Nov 17, 2011

gus bohne said:
Please try ,,

800 / 900 zr reeds doubled up.. they are NOT breaking or chipping evne after 4 yrs @ 26 psi.
STACKED they are softer than the stock 1000 petals ! and have alsmost stock like response and fuel curve..( the dead giveaway )..

its not tension as much as mass that stops the ocillations that frett the petals edges.

I have full length stops to that did nothing for reed life .

Gus

So are you saying that the stacked 800/900 reeds are softer than a single stock 1000 reed or stacked 1000 reed. I am guessing that you mean a single 1000 reed which I have been running in my 7 for years and my bottom end has always sucked. I did run stacked m-7 reeds the first year(06) but they were getting chewed up pretty fast (at 12 lb boost) but the bottom end was better.

Tonysnoo · Nov 17, 2011

gus bohne said:
The Stepped stops Tony is refering to are not on my turbos due to the boost levels run.

My concern is the hinge point being further out allowing the petal, to fatigue immediatly behind that hinge or directly in front of the screw holes.

The smooth radius for boost is important TO ME..

wider stopper angles mean more deflection of the petal . be carefull we dont fatigue that joint..

gus

Hey Gus, if I read you correctly, you prefer the smoother M1000 type of stop compared to the stepped 700-800 type? ....or am I backwards????

I see the 800HO reed stop looks identical to the 1000(different part numbers however)

I wonder what's the difference between the HO four pedal reed pedal and the earlier four pedal reed pedal........hmmmmm I'm going to get out some calipers.

One other bit of actual feedback on extended OVS stops:
My buddy's TM1200 was cracking/erroding reeds right at the line where the stock reed stops ended. When he went to the OVS longer stops, it took him all season to start to fret the reeds(single 1000 style) compared to eating them up badly twice a season. There must be something to the concept. His motor obviously needed "more support" on the stop.....or maybe less boost.....:face-icon-small-win

Eli · Nov 17, 2011

Eli said:
I have two full sets of barely used zr/m series reeds that we are referring to here that I would sell. I picked them up for my Poo to double stack, but didn't want to trim them to my double v formation.

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Should I say I have 4 full cat sets...16 petals.

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rmkid800 · Nov 18, 2011

Just installed the OVS reed stops a few days ago with stock M1000 reeds on my M7 turbo. I'm hoping with just one set of reeds it will clean up the bottom end a bit and then the reed stops will make them last. Time will tell.

Jamesrulz · Nov 18, 2011

I run my 2010 m8 400 miles on the stock reeds last winter at 8psi with no issues yet. I am looking to do some upgrading before I take it out, a guy at the sled show in Edmonton with a twisted turbo suggested m1000 reeds stacked with stock reeds. I'm not sure what the ticket is I want to make sure I get good bottom end because I ride in the trees lots. Any tried and true suggestions would be great!

gus bohne · Nov 20, 2011

Sorry for the delay Tony..
I do like the stepped stoppers for ultra low boost ( 4 psi ). You can see the reasoning .

In 6 yrs now of Ice dragging, speedruns and just plain spending the day making 20-30runs down the 660' strip at 24-30 psi boost ,,. NONE of my customers has even a wierd looking petal on their sleds..

Now I am also a firm believer in a full length stop like Garth is offering..

SO happy you tired the set up Freeride !!! Now you can get your head around the priciple of MASS vs tension..

James, just stack your stockers, the 1000 petal is stiff for response on small dispacement .

I use the same reeds on even the 1000 @ 30 psi, tested last yr at 42 psi boost and they still are IN the sled.

ALL STOPS SET AT 13MM !!

THE ONLY thing that chews reeds is a lean spot in your tuning..fix the lean out issue and the reeds will live a long life.

I sit on the launch studder button at 5500rpm sometimes for 2 minutes ON EACH run !! we studder at 12 psi boost.. SO long sometimes,, the plug loosens from deto !!!! BUT the reeds are untouched..

NO lean spots
Gus

flatlandsledder · Nov 27, 2011

How to

What is the procedure for "Opening them up to 13mm"? Don't quite understand.

TheBreeze · Nov 30, 2011

Anyone have any thoughts on the newer HO m series reeds, vs the older M series and ZR reeds? The HO's are coming with 3007-888 and the older m's and ZR's have the 3005-878.

Tonysnoo · Nov 30, 2011

flatlandsledder said:
What is the procedure for "Opening them up to 13mm"? Don't quite understand.

When you look at the reed assembly the reed is flush against the reed cage and the reed stop is the metal piece that flairs away from the cage, that stops the reed from opening too much and breaking.

The distance from the end of that stop to the reed or reed cage is what needs to be adjusted. They can be "bent/opened" up carefully. You just have to make sure that the opening is the same across the end of the stop

Hope this helps.

Turbo reed setup

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