2009 IQR 600 to 800 swap

You will need to notch the bulkhead to clear the front of the motor or use 1" spacers on top of the straps to clear it. If you space it up you'll have to mod the steering hoop to clear the PV and spark plug.

Your better off just turning your 600 into an 800

You're only better off if you have the coin to rebuild the mono block turd 800 every single year if not twice a year. Go on over to hardcore sledders forum. They have way more info on this conversion. I am currently scrambling to build my '09 153" racer into a 1085 mountain beast. I have had the 800 mono(built to not blow up.$$$) and another big bore based off that engine. I am going to the old engine because of price and reliability.

Im looking into the 800r option right now as step 2 for mine. Im doing a 136 set up now and then the 800r next summer. It seems like if the 800r is built correctly with a port matched case and the long rod conversion they can be very reliable engines. I guess thats a matter of being willing to spend the money to have someone like indy dan do it correctly and also getting correct pipe set up. My plan is to use ceramic coated Y pipe and single from dynoport with the stock can because i like OEMish set ups. The old BB option is a reliable proven method but takes alot of chassis modification to make work. While the mono 800 goes on with no chassis mods what so ever. The thing you have to watch when doing either conversion is that no corners are cut. I have been reading alot of forums and doing research and the people that are unhappy with there conversion usually have cut corners or have bad set up(or maybe bikeman built it). The 600r is a fast motor, id rather spend some time setting that motor up proper than have a half *** 800 conversion mono or BB. Just some stuff to think about. Also im looking for 9000ft+ jetting and clutching for the 800r

BC sno-x,

There is discussion about the long rod theory. I have read and done my own research. I have decided that rod length is not a problem with this engine. I would read RK Tek's article on this engine. He explains how the Ski-Doo has a very similar rod angle, if I remember correctly it was slightly "worse" without the inherent problems of the Polaris engine. I have been told many times that the long rod does extend longevity but it is at a big compromise of power as the factory rod angle allows for about the best power transfer to the crank. Also I have heard that engines with spacer kits are more prone to failure then ones without. RK Tek is the only company in the business that makes a proper double ring piston with relocated wrist pin AND does NOT require a spacer, it also has oil holes on exhaust side. I would use standard length rods and an RK Tek piston kit if I were to have another 800 mono. I would also use the 2011-2015 Fuji crank if not the AXYS lightweight crank as the MAPE crank was prone to failure. Also I would make sure to use the 2013+ cylinder as they have thicker skirts. Doing those 3 things should make it last longer but I would recommend replacing pistons often.

As for the conversion, you should also look into the 05-07 factory Polaris conversion method of using 1" spacer blocks under the engine. This conversion does NOT require modification of anything aluminum(bulkhead). The only thing that needs modified is the steel over structure. I will be going a custom one off route that works in my head. I hope to post pictures later this fall and going over it in detail if it does work out. Other than that, it's just making the mounts work and rewiring to this ignition setup. Then get carburation/airbox and pipes/exhaust and your set.

Thank you for the reply
I am trying to get my head wrapped around the 800 mono conversion before i do it and people with real deal info are a huge help. There are not many people into iqr mods anymore in colorado. Its cool just to be able to talk to other people who love the iqr like i do.

IQr Owner's Group on Facebook is a pretty cool place. Feel free to PM me anytime.

SnoDmon said:

BC sno-x,

There is discussion about the long rod theory. I have read and done my own research. I have decided that rod length is not a problem with this engine. I would read RK Tek's article on this engine. He explains how the Ski-Doo has a very similar rod angle, if I remember correctly it was slightly "worse" without the inherent problems of the Polaris engine. I have been told many times that the long rod does extend longevity but it is at a big compromise of power as the factory rod angle allows for about the best power transfer to the crank. Also I have heard that engines with spacer kits are more prone to failure then ones without. RK Tek is the only company in the business that makes a proper double ring piston with relocated wrist pin AND does NOT require a spacer, it also has oil holes on exhaust side. I would use standard length rods and an RK Tek piston kit if I were to have another 800 mono. I would also use the 2011-2015 Fuji crank if not the AXYS lightweight crank as the MAPE crank was prone to failure. Also I would make sure to use the 2013+ cylinder as they have thicker skirts. Doing those 3 things should make it last longer but I would recommend replacing pistons often.

As for the conversion, you should also look into the 05-07 factory Polaris conversion method of using 1" spacer blocks under the engine. This conversion does NOT require modification of anything aluminum(bulkhead). The only thing that needs modified is the steel over structure. I will be going a custom one off route that works in my head. I hope to post pictures later this fall and going over it in detail if it does work out. Other than that, it's just making the mounts work and rewiring to this ignition setup. Then get carburation/airbox and pipes/exhaust and your set.

Click to expand...

If you believe Kelsey (RKTech), You will be in the same boat as you were with Brad (Power Addiction); A roller without a functional engine. All of his arguments against the Long Rod are BS, as is everything else out of his mouth.

What about the crank. I know the 2014+ has light crank. Is the 600r crank the same as the new axys 800 crank? Will lighting my 2013 crank work fine or should i have a 600r/axys 800 crank installed. Also 2013+ cylinders? What about pistons and head options? What year pistons? Aftermarket? Also stock head? Aftermarket head? I run above 9000ft and use 91 pump gas with stable

LoudHandle,

This is exactly why I'm going to stay away from the 800 mono and every associated bore with it. I had a great lil 600r and the 800 just destroyed everything I had. You know the story with PAR. As far as the long rod theory, I have heard from many builders that they just don't make the power they should but that they do last longer. I would like to say I have hands on experience with the power lol.

BC SnoX,

The lightweight crank should perform better but I would think you're fine running the 2010+ Fuji crank, just match it with a 13+ cylinder. '16 AXYS RMK has the lightweight crank, '15 AXYS trail sleds should have that crank and I believe the race department started using the lightweight crank in '14. For pistons, I would use the newest Polaris pistons if you prefer OEM, if you prefer aftermarket pistons I would use in this order, RK Tek, Wossner, then Sno-X. If you are running that kind of elevation I would bump the compression with a head. Heads are inexpensive and there is a lot of options out there. They cool better and your other mods will take better to the engine with a better head. I would personally have the head cut for the lowest elevation you plan on riding.

Demon, the real reason your LR would not run is you chose to source it from one of many that copied the original poorly. If you had gone to Indy Specialties; you would be singing a far different tune. IMO FWIW

I have read alot of people saying they wish they just kept it a 600r but after talking to indy specialty it seems like they know how to make a reliable and fun 800r. I dont know much of anything about anything but it just seems like people thought it was to simple and just slapped them together when it actually takes some knowledge and know how to get the motor working properly. The one thing i have picked up is that properly port matching the case to cylinder makes a big difference.
I have learned that indy dan is the man to talk to. I heard bikeman lets there retired strippers do the porting and welding on their consumer stuff so unless you are one of there valuable customers id stay away from there 800 mono kit. At least they are helping the old stripper community stay on there feet.

One question i have is, why are people taking 600r motors out and replacing them with old 800bb motors. Doesn't the new 600 basically make the same power in a lighter package.

BC SnoX said:

One question i have is, why are people taking 600r motors out and replacing them with old 800bb motors. Doesn't the new 600 basically make the same power in a lighter package.

Click to expand...

People aren't, not sure where your seeing guys pulling the 600r motor out and putting a 800bb in? since the 600r came out the 800bb swap is not as popular.

Maybe i was reading over on HCS or somewhere but, guys where talking badly about the 800r and telling people to do a 800bb if possible. It seemed like a ridiculous thing to do and that is why i was wondering if there was something special about the motor but i didnt think so it just seems heavy and outdated to me

I had a 600r, went to an 800r/mono, blew to pieces and went 910r based. So I "am" pulling "600r" to go to BB VES base but its a 1085 IN MY '09.

On a side note to LoudHandle, I did attempt to go thru Indy Dan but my 800 mono blew in late December and he couldn't get me an engine built until Spring at the earliest. I wasn't about to end my season.

FWIW if you take the time and do a 800 monoblock conversion it will blow the doors off of a 800 big block. I have had 440's, 600's, 660's, 800 BB, etc, etc, in IQR's and now have a couple different forms of the 600/monoblock conversion (main being a 870 on 600r bottom end, ported 800 for hillcross 800 class when I get a hair up my *** to go race).

Big problem's with the 800 BB is it weighs about 30+ lbs more than the 600r/mono block conversion, and getting a airbox on it is next to impossible. Running pods really effects performance because you are constantly sucking hot underhood air. Not to mention the 800bb (134hp) makes just a tick more HP than the 600r engine stock.

If you are going to do the big block 800 the best way to do it is to drop it down into the bulkhead by notching it and moving/replacing the lower cross brace. It will give you a lower center of gravity and IMO its less work. Polaris factory 800bb mods in 2005 used the 1" spacer to move the engine up. But in doing so the hoop has to be modded along with the steering post. FWIW Polaris did not do well in the last year of the 800 racing class (first year IQR) because the 800 bb was under powered compared to other brands. One big issue is you will need a special engine plate to install the 800 BB low in the bulkhead, PAR was the only one making them and I'm not sure if he still is. If you want I have pictures from a couple IQR's I put 800bb's in during the process.

Most I know that complain about the 800 mono's did them poorly without researching much (not calling anyone out, settle). I have had to fix and tune numerous 800 monoblock conversions for folks. People say "just slap the 800 monoblock cylinder on and thats it", thats not, a lot more goes into it. The people that have them running correctly (not saying others don't) love them and I can provide plenty of testimonials. FYI when dynoing the 2008/2009 800 CFI's at Polaris, the main R&D engineer built himself one with carbs and it outperformed the injected motor consistently. I personally know him, and he ran that said engine in Watercross Pro class to win many races in 2009 and 2010.

Biggest thing holding back top end on any IQR is the rear stock skid and rolling resistance. You don't get the amount of travel they have and also get great top end. Now their is a couple things you can do to the stock skid to make it a bit better but still isn't going to roll as smoothly as a consumer sled. This includes adding longer rails or rail extension's. Its still a very aggressive coupled skid.

Edit: Indy Dan has great clutch setups for the IQR he works closely with one of the guys that first started doing IQR conversions. A big issue with the 800 mono's and IQR's in general is their is really no starting point to clutch for the common guy. They are not a consumer sled, and the stock clutching is for a snowcross racing 600. That being said I don't run Indy Dan clutching, I do have a rough of idea where his clutching is. If I was just getting into the IQR's and 800 mono's I would definitely use Indy Dan for my clutching, and I may try his out this year as I have started to do more business with him.

That all being said I have moved on from the IQR phase, but have kept my 2013 IQR because it is such a fun sled to ride in MN. Might not be the most trail friendly, but I have had to start buying longer sleeve shirts for some reason .

Thank you the bob
I am putting 136 ice age rails on the stock skid. I am wanting low to mid range of power. I had a rev 440/800 that i kept all the 440 clutching/gearing/computer but used a summit 800 motor and it was my favorite sled. It would flip over in the right snow of the line and would cat walk up hills all day. I mostly ride back country jumps. They are rarely over 100ft so i dont need a 90mph sled. I need to be able to hit about 65mph. But id like to get there fast. It gets me ready for the jump when my heart gets going on the run in so i like my sleds to feel snapy and quick like a factory mod snocross sled but also reliable and pumpgas friendly. I really want to get similar results to my 06 rev 440/800. I loved that sled. My pro last year just did not get my heart rate going on the run up, i was able to clear everything with the pro, but i was not smiling when i put it to the stops. Thats another thing. I really like holding it wide open and on a 90mph sled i will overclear everything.