Bare Chassis Build - 2009 800 155 Dragon

Hello Everyone. I have started the re build and as promised I will document the process here. Also, "thank you" to all that have answered questions and those who are yet to answer questions for I will have a few during this build.

My goal is to help others who may decide to do this. I've always wanted to build a custom "something". To build a custom snowmobile in comparison to car, truck or motorcycle is fairly inexpensive. I'm 55 and really enjoying the process. This sled was purchased with a blown 800 and a bad abused track, bad clutch (now new and lifetime balance by Indy Dan) and one bad lower control arm. So I was 66% there anyway just removing those items (motor, bad parts and track assembly). This could be my last sled, so for me the time was now.
This will be a practical build, yet a personal build.

Tools:

- Camera (take all the pics you can when disassembling....I did not take enough, be anal about it).
- Air Rivet Gun (if you think you can get by without this - wish you luck
- Titanium drill bits / wd40 (you are going to remove more rivets than you think, make it easy. I thought this worked better than cobalt bits)
- Finish nail 3 punch set (nice for knocking rivet mandrels out & rivets with the head drilled off)
- Gas line release tool (I'll update the size later)
- Torque wrench (do things right)
- Obvious socket sets and wrenches
- torx and hex tools
- Blue loc tite
- Rags, degreaser and *carb cleaner* (* this worked best for me on the adhesive from tank pads and Polaris decals (I thought this was the only thing I did not enjoy)
- Patience (Don't rush, think things thru. You do not want to have to remove a part you just riveted back into place)

To answer FAQ

- Sled: 2009 800 155 Dragon (Came with aftermarket ski's, bumpers, SLP Can, hilex) (1,500.00)
- Rivets: All Polaris - (WRP's Rivets malfunctioned) (100.00)
- Motor: original 800 w/ long rod build (Indy Dan) (3,160.00 w/ship)
- Skid is basically stock and completely gone thru. New "stiff" springs and shocks set to 225 lbs (Carl's). Black Hiperfax slides
- Running Boards: WRP (Great Boards)
- Track: Camoplast Extreme 2.5" - every window is clipped (required for hiperfax slides), Added second set of ider wheels
- Fender, foot console & side panel Vents = Extreme (high quality)
- Dash vent: 2 cool (greet people)
- Speedometer: IQ Analog (blue speedometer backlight / red Tach backlight and I am not a fan of a digital readout (older eyes) (I might have the colors backwards)
- Ski's - SLP Powder Pros (came with the sled and my favorites) added black loops
- Powder Coating: 45 pieces = $625.00, Chassis = Textured black, glossy black parts and a few others = Glossy black, Detailed parts = Dormant Sky Blue Sparkle w/ clear coat

Note on color Design choices: For colored powder coated parts: I decided the control arms had to be black because they get bent and need replacing. I do not want to have to powder coat a new control arm (cause I wrecked one), same with running board support rails. Chances are the color would not be an exact match. Bottom line: I just want to bolt on a new part and ride...winter is not the time for powder coating unless you have your own setup.

Costs: Just over $8,000.00 (w/o selling any of good parts replaced) Includes 2 Polaris bags for the sled.

I will be asking for help in ensuring I have put things back together correctly. If you notice something looking off, please let me know.

On to the build with pics.

The bare chassis looking new and clean. Note the running boards are cut out for the new WRP running boards. I left two sections of the original metal to bridge for strength off the skid bracket. Seem to add stability. Just what I did nothing more.



WRP Boards, Steering loop. I installed the steering loop and running board rails so parts were in their "home" position, before riveting the running boards to the rails and then the WRP running boards their self. I had to remove the steering loop to get the very front rivets in place for both the WRP Bds. and running board to rail. (Note) I wish I had installed the little plastic cover located in the very front of the tunnel (now I have to do it from the bottom.)



WRP. First know I really like these boards and would buy them again. What I do not understand is the rivets that came with the boards failing (never seen this before). As you can see in the pic below the top of the rivet broke off. I thought it had to be a fluke, so I did 2 more SAME thing. Yeah I know, slow learner. I just thought this could not be possible. So there I am grinding those rivets back out. This is not something I wanted to be doing on my new powder coat. I luckily had the same rivets from Polaris. WRP's madrel was coated, Polaris madrel was not.


WRP installed and looking great.



Console Panels in place and the front suspension pieces.

2 Questions

Q1. The steering radius rod (blue). The ends, I have both ends tight to the rod. WHAT is a good start point (meaning how many turns out from the ends). Hope I'm being clear here. I ask because the inside has to be tightened down and is not easily accessed after the "boot cover" is in place.





I will continue to post as I work on it.

Good points already and there is so much info on powder coating on the site. I chose the textured black because I was told it hides scratches better. We will see.

My tunnel heat exchangers are not powder coated on the underneath side of the tunnel to allow for proper cooling. My powder coating provider is very experienced with sleds and why I chose them.

Thank you Richracer1. I looked at your build many times and I have used your photos, (which I have downloaded to my laptop) as reference many times in designing my own sled. Your sled looks great by the way. Your build has been so helpful to me and that is why I wanted to add mine to hopefully help others.

I took in a few more parts for powder coating...things I forgot and a couple others because they have a minimum and it will be nice.

I struggled a little getting the spindles on the lower control arms...the powder coating makes it a real tight fit. Another foolish thing I did was powder coating the hood cables..to stiff now and will snap at the ends on the bumper. It was my fault...I have never had anything powder coated and I did not realize just how thick it is. Part of the learning experience.

Here is a pic of the front suspension.....I will clean up my tools and stuff for better pics from here out. Will be a few days before I work on it again, as I'm waiting for the parts being powder coated. Plus I'm waiting for the shocks to come back from Carl's cycle so I can complete the skid.



QUESTION: On the Tunnel There were two pieces of film over the round holes to keep out water. Are those available from Polaris? I have not seen them in the parts list.

Absolutely impossible (from a sanity standpoint) without the air rivet gun. In the early years I ruined a couple hand rivet guns on little things on sleds and it hurt my hands like hell. I love that green thing....worth every penny and was around $ 80.00. Makes it quick and painless. I learned quick to use a titanium drill bit to remove rivets and you will be surprised at how many you remove. Polaris rivets are not cheap and I ordered the "Polaris rivets" at Partzilla.com saved a lot of money and ordered more than I needed because I find I used them on other equipment. As other's have said "use Polaris rivets for structural soundness".

The Black stainless steel Oxide screws came in for the rear bumper. I had a hard time finding these (only wanted 10). Had to hand cut every one to length. I think it looks better than just stainless and won't rust. I wish it was a hex or torx.

Note: this sled has a few small dings and I did not remove them but instead just worked with it. Let's face it - it will get more.



Richracer1 Thanks, Do you happen to know how far the gas tank pads should be from the exchange cooler hoses???

I understand about the resources, I've said those very words at times in life....I'm older now and have collected tools as I went in life. I also do not live in town, so many times buying the tool and doing it my self was the same cost with out the trip - dragging "whatever" to town for some one else to do it. But I had the tool afterwards and I avoid buying crap tools. I'd rather have 2 quality items than 6 POS. I firmly believe a "used" quality tool is better than a "new" low quality tool. I tend to buy used quality tools. They will last me a long time because I do not use them every day. Do not buy a "used" worn out tool. That is not the same thing.

I bought the dragon a year and a half ago when I was not flush with money. I have purchased parts used and new at the best price I could find. I gathered over time, even though not a real long time period. But I knew what I wanted and stayed the course. I think it has been a blast! When I finally got to work today I found the message my other parts were ready at the powder coating shop...but it was closed already...felt like I was 17 again...can't wait to get those parts tomorrow....and get more done.

Keep in mind (I don't know how old you are), But I would help any young man that wanted to tackle a project like this. I could have put this sled back together for about 6K total. It would have just been a standard dragon, but a great sled with an Indy Dan's motor.

One other crucial thing. I have always tried to keep my butt out of debt as much as possible. A person has more choices that way. Debt enslaves people. Just my 2 cents. I know this is a philosophical post here, but we are mentoring young men here too.

My son and I worked on the sled most of yesterday.

Fuel Tank tunnel Pads: I should have placed them right up against the heat exchanger hose neck. One was longer than the other - watch that also.

- Fuel injector Green Bushing I would have missed this. When you remove your fuel injector the green bushing is likely to stay in the motor block. I had no idea. Thank goodness Indy Dan sent 2 of them back in a little baggy with the motor. These is one for each injector and I will order.

- Reeds are chipped and need replacement. I disassembled and cleaned the reeds that we good. Reeds were filthy with what looked like belt dust. I created one good set. I washed with warm water and a little hand soap.

2 Question

1. how to tell if your injectors are good?

2. What should I order for reed petals?

Still waiting on misc parts that are holding up the show.

- Carl's has notified me they are working on the shocks (holding up the skid install.

-Waiting for my Polaris parts order that include the little green seals for the fuel injectors.

- Waiting on new "used" side covers

- Waiting on new "used" Reed cage

I did receive the por 15 paint for the drive shaft.

Coated / Painted the drive shaft with Por 15. This help prevent Snow/ice buildup on this shaft. I was interested in doing this because I have some truck floor board pans I plan on using this prouct on. It takes so little to coat the drive shaft and that little can was like 23.00.