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As title states, what gauges are absolutley required for a 2010 Turbo Nytro XTX?
What gauges are ABSOLUTLEY NEEDED
- Thread starter Spankey99
- Start date
boost is min. A/F is nice. Theoretically you can run without gauges but it makes it hard to tune and diagnosis problems.
GL
GL
Boost,then A/F for temp and elevation changes,then coolant temp for low snow or warm days.It's nice to have guages with a record or memory mode, sometimes hard to read guages on a climb or WOT run.
Jeff
J
no gauges are required, but im not sure why you wouldnt get boost, afr, and water temp if you get boosting your sled
D
Boost, A/F, and RPM are the ones I use most. I sometimes watch for the water temp light on the trail in low slow conditions. I use to run a fuel pressure gauge with the Malpassi regulator. Now that I run the original supplied with my Boost-It kit, I have no reason to look, non-adjustable, and reliable.
T
I would put afr at number 1. Boost is just a number, afr at 16 pounds boost will change from sled to sled. I would prefer to have the gauge that will tell me my engine is going lean. if you go lean turn down the boost, regardless of the boost number it needs to go lower if you are lean (or add more fuel).
that being said i have afr, boost, and water temp.
If I'm looking at this wrong feel free to disagree.
that being said i have afr, boost, and water temp.
If I'm looking at this wrong feel free to disagree.
D
Each to their own but I would say if you are lean running 18#'s boost, chances are you are going to be lean at 16#'s. I always choose to dial in my A/F by adding or decreasing fuel. I use my boost controller to adjust for RPM only. My weights are always fully loaded and I never mess with any of my other clutching. IMO boost is just a number, some days I make XYZ hp at 13#'s boost, some days it takes 17#'s boost. I look at my RPM as a measurement of the hp I am making. If I can pull 10800 rpm one day at 13#'s and 10800 the next at 17#'s, then IMO I am running similar hp.
I love the crisp air days when you are making power at lower boost. This is why i'm going to go to a water to air intercooler. I think having ice cold charge air will help maintain consistent hp levels at lower boost. The Boost-It boys noticed that on their sleds this year.
I think we need to remember every turbo or supercharger kit out there advertises "our kit makes this much HP at this many lbs. of boost" the kit manufacterer has already figured out fuel and clutching for elevation.That being said, yes an A/F gauge will help fine tune,and the tach will tell if you're getting or holding RPMs,but how would you know to add 2lbs or lose 3lbs if you don't even have a gauge for boost??? Don't buy a turbo and just hope that you're hitting max boost, without a gauge you don't know
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Jeff
.Jeff
S
What's the benefit of afr over egt?
T
I think we need to remember every turbo or supercharger kit out there advertises "our kit makes this much HP at this many lbs. of boost" the kit manufacterer has already figured out fuel and clutching for elevation.That being said, yes an A/F gauge will help fine tune,and the tach will tell if you're getting or holding RPMs,but how would you know to add 2lbs or lose 3lbs if you don't even have a gauge for boost??? Don't buy a turbo and just hope that you're hitting max boost, without a gauge you don't know
Jeff
I can see that. But what about the day you are making 16 pounds of boost and the signal to your fuel regulator springs a leak and you are making 15-16 pounds boost but your fuel pressure is down 30 PSI from normal? You will be way lean possibly a blown motor...... I guess it depends on how you get the fuel too. Another scenario might be your piggy back controller craps out and you are on the stock fuel system.
Im not advocating that you dont need a boost gauge, just showing the importance of AFR too (IMO).
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T
I agree, I think you put in writing what I was thinking. I'm not an expert just sharing my thoughts since we have no snow here.
Alot of what if's in your statement based on conceivable failures,just don't know how you can relate it to a guesstimated 15-16 lbs boost without a boost gauge?The failures you state could occur at 8-18 lbs,not the gauges' fault.I agree A/F is important and I run a Koso X2 so I can monitor and record A/F,boost,and temp.
Jeff
P.S. good conversation
S
Is there any cheaper alternative to a Koso X2? Any place to find good used ones?
I don't know Spankey,the Koso came with everything except the 26mm coolant tee.When you price out seperate gauges,mount,sensors,wiring,and complexity of install,IMHO the Koso is hard to beat. As for the A/F vs. EGT question,the 5 wire Bosch A/F sensor is very sensitive and accurate.Not sure if anyone out there runs EGTs on boosted Nytros???
Jeff
S
Thanks for the good comments guys, anything else he should get? He is thinking about doing a 2" challenger. Sled has 218 miles on it and he just wants more haha.
Boost Guage
I know some kits are non adjustable, however I think that if you have an adjustable kit you may want to be able to judge where you would set the dial. Pump gas is not race fuel which might be a factor in where you set your boost. Elevation and temp also come into play. My Nytro will run as low as 7-8 lbs at 5000 ft on a -5 C day. At 900 ft and -15 C it is not going to be much below 15 lbs boost turned as low as it will go. At 10 lbs I can run premium fuel with no problem. Some claim 15 to 17 lbs with head shims are ok nowadays with some of the new fuel systems... I still believe good fuel saves $$$ in the end and once I hit 12+ lbs I make sure the octane is 100 +. Presently I am in the ballpark of 15 - 16 lbs and run 100 octane fuel.
JMO
I know some kits are non adjustable, however I think that if you have an adjustable kit you may want to be able to judge where you would set the dial. Pump gas is not race fuel which might be a factor in where you set your boost. Elevation and temp also come into play. My Nytro will run as low as 7-8 lbs at 5000 ft on a -5 C day. At 900 ft and -15 C it is not going to be much below 15 lbs boost turned as low as it will go. At 10 lbs I can run premium fuel with no problem. Some claim 15 to 17 lbs with head shims are ok nowadays with some of the new fuel systems... I still believe good fuel saves $$$ in the end and once I hit 12+ lbs I make sure the octane is 100 +. Presently I am in the ballpark of 15 - 16 lbs and run 100 octane fuel.
JMO
S
Thanks for the good advice.
IMO if you are going to shell out the money for a turbo, you need to be able to tune it. In my mind, that means being able to keep an eye on A/F and Boost at a minimum. Without gauges it makes trouble shooting a lot harder if it isn't running right.
B
egt are pretty much useless on a 4stroke unless you are running huge boost or racing.a wide band af gauge will tell you exactly what your sled is doing fuel wise.
B
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