Oil Pump Adjustment

[modsledr]

Another note...on the second sled we did, we ended up taking the tank/airbox off (don't ask...lol)...and from there got a look at the alignment marks from the can side. There is a horizontal line in the pump housing, and a "v" shaped notch in the arm that are suppose to line up.

after turning the screw in 3 full turns, the alignment marks were still not in line. We turned it in another 2 full turns to get it just past the marks (slightly richer).

So, that makes it 5 full turns to get the alignment marks to slightly rich.

 

[gman086]

No let me TELL YOU A LITTLE BIT OF INFORMATION! The LINKAGE style oil pump puts out (supposedly) a 40:1 ratio after about 2/3 throttle (it's wide open at that point) so ALL YOU'RE DOING by turning them up is using more oil at idle/low throttle. I couldn't figure out why I still wasn't burning enough oil even with the pump turned up - now I know why! These are different than the old cable types where it did make a big diff all thru the throttle range peeps. Both my dealer and Carl's confirmed this and they both recommend adding oil in the gas tank to help offset the lower oil/fuel ratio that the Pro's are running. My sled was loading up at idle before but ran great above 5,500 rpm - now I know why. PUT IT BACK TO STOCK and now it riiiiips! So... don't touch the pump adjustment, just add oil to the fuel tank (add 0.5 oz/gal for stock motors and 1 oz/gal for modded motors/turbos)!

And that's the REST of the STORY!

Have FUN!

G MAN

 

[skibreeze]

So, even if it's only for the first 1/3 throttle, what's wrong with giving it a little more oil as long as it's not affecting runnability. I still like the idea of the bottom end getting more since my 08 lost a rod bearing.

 

[wellfed777]

g man
are you saying per gallon or total?

 

[Trxstr]

Assault

My Uncle rides a 2012 Switchback Assault on the rivers in Northern Alberta and averages 60 MPH!!! He goes through 4 tanks of fuel before adding oil. Now thats a lot of throttle if it uses more when full throttle, I am not sure this is the case. Correct me if I'm wrong. I dont see this being a progressive oil pump system. My RMK 800 Is the same. 4 rides if i leave it till I ABSOLUTELY have to add oil. IMO it's not enough. hmmmm:face-icon-small-dis

 

[modsledr]

keep in mind that adding oil to the fuel only oils the top end, and rod bearing. The main bearings are oiled by the oil pump only.

 

[gman086]

keep in mind that adding oil to the fuel only oils the top end, and rod bearing. The main bearings are oiled by the oil pump only.

Correct which is why we can't just do a delete which I'd prefer, especially since we have to mix anyway!

Have FUN!

G

 

[gman086]

So, even if it's only for the first 1/3 throttle, what's wrong with giving it a little more oil as long as it's not affecting runnability. I still like the idea of the bottom end getting more since my 08 lost a rod bearing.

Ideally yes - agree with you 100%. However, my low end got unresponsive after I adjusted her up. Back to normal now. Both my dealer and Carl's told me not to mess with the initial setting because they run better at that setting and that's what I've found. Some others here have not had my issue so... YMMV.

Have FUN!

G MAN

 

[gman086]

g man
are you saying per gallon or total?

Per gallon, thanks (fixed my post).

Cheers,

G

 

[gmustangt]

No let me TELL YOU A LITTLE BIT OF INFORMATION! The LINKAGE style oil pump puts out (supposedly) a 40:1 ratio after about 2/3 throttle (it's wide open at that point) so ALL YOU'RE DOING by turning them up is using more oil at idle/low throttle. I couldn't figure out why I still wasn't burning enough oil even with the pump turned up - now I know why! These are different than the old cable types where it did make a big diff all thru the throttle range peeps. Both my dealer and Carl's confirmed this and they both recommend adding oil in the gas tank to help offset the lower oil/fuel ratio that the Pro's are running. My sled was loading up at idle before but ran great above 5,500 rpm - now I know why. PUT IT BACK TO STOCK and now it riiiiips! So... don't touch the pump adjustment, just add oil to the fuel tank (add 0.5 oz/gal for stock motors and 1 oz/gal for modded motors/turbos)!

And that's the REST of the STORY!

Have FUN!

G MAN

Hmm that dosent sound right, because if that's true, saying the pump is wide open at 40:1, that means it wouldn't be possible to see a ratio lower(richer) than 40:1... But myself and many others have seen a 32:1 ratio... Another guy reported a ratio of 25:1...

Thoughts?

 

[rp2000r]

My dealer said same thing, can't do much with adjusting pump...
Said add to oil tank if worried to help rings, not crank.



Gman,

Do you fill tank and add oil? or pre-mix?
Are you using Gold?

Thanks, Ryan

 

[gman086]

My dealer said same thing, can't do much with adjusting pump...
Said add to oil tank if worried to help rings, not crank.



Gman,

Do you fill tank and add oil? or pre-mix?
Are you using Gold?

Thanks, Ryan

Either one depending on if I use the whole tank or not. Not using Gold; went with Redline which I know makes top notch lubes right down to their shock oils. I also like Maxima and had fantastic results with Amsoil Interceptor (in my Summits) and Dominator (in my race sled) but hard to find these dayz after I lost my source and have heard a lot of bad about them tho that certainly was never my finding. Honestly I don't think you can go wrong with most of the well known brands' syn oil these dayz. I will say that I don't trust Poo's or Cat's oil source (Lube Tech) as much as Doo's (Castor Oil) or Yammi (Torco) so I won't use it.

Have FUN!

G MAN

 

[Reg2view]

My oil use certainly went up after the adjustment, with zero running quality issues. It actually seems to run cooler/temps climb slower in poor snow with no scratchers. I must need to pin it more and stop being a Sally. More oil with no negative runability is a good thing for me.

 

[Murph]

X2 ^^^^^^^^^
all of the above comments

 

[pus1100]

keep in mind that adding oil to the fuel only oils the top end, and rod bearing. The main bearings are oiled by the oil pump only.

rod and piston pin bearings see no extra oil when premixing.you have to turn your oiler up for extra oil on bottom end.

 

[gman086]

^^^Doesn't change anything at WOT with the link adjust pump but go ahead if it makes you feel better.

Another thing I noticed today on sheer ice - my sled stays COOLER! A good 10 deg cooler with 0.5 oz syn/gal premix. Sled ran like a champ (after I ditched the Champion plugs for NGK - oh the irony).

Have FUN!

G MAN

 

[Leaf27]

Turned mine up 2 turns. Road yesterday and looks like I am 53:1. I am going to turn it up another full turn.

 

[NWBackcountry]

All right i am a pilot and my aircraft mechanic tells me not to work on airplanes for a reason. I should not be working on sleds either.

Well i tried to adjust the oil set screw and I over-torqued the lock nut after turining the screw in three turns. Now the adjustments plate is no longer square to the rotation and when looking at it points down and to the right. Any ideas on fixing it? Since I F....ed it up i am hitting the rev limiter. Ran perfect before i adjusted the oil set screw. Now it hits the rev limiter. What the hell did i do???

A friend of mine who is a mechanic is going to remove the gas tank and air box tomorrow and try to straighten the plate. Then he will reset the scibe marks on th oil pump.

Did i lean it out by accident so it runs higher RPM's???

Help please, i need to ride this weekend.

 

[xc6rider]

I respectfully disagree with gman, and Carl's i guess for what it's worth. Every single other guy has noticed an increased flow, with little to NO negative side effects.

Until I tear a pump apart, and see how it's designed to try to figure things out, I'm keeping mine turned up. Increased flow, HAS been proven. Negative side effects from doing so, has NOT. Other than one, possible, throttle response it appears.



We have to remember, this pump, is driven off of direct drive from the crank. As rpm picks up, the pump is driven at an obviously higher rpm. This will increase pump output pressure, and change volume flow.... If nothing else is changed. If it's a simple orfice controlled by a linkage arm position, the volume can be dramatically changed by it's position, and corresponding rpm.

Nothing has been proven by ANYONE...... And if you are nervous or cautious, turn it up a couple turns if it makes you feel better, cause the only thing we have so far to suggest otherwise, is ONE case of poor throttle response.


Unless you spend all day putting around at idle or a very low rpm (where it supposedly only increases flow) you won't have a problem. Otherwise, the extra oil pumped in early at low rpm, will definitly be of benefit all throughout the rpm range. Oil in the bottom end is never consumed as thouroughly as atomized fuel charges etc.... Any residual/extra oil will stick and float around that bottom end much more, and in no way has an instand topend feed.



Do what you want I guess........ Not my engine.

 

[CO 2.0]

All right i am a pilot and my aircraft mechanic tells me not to work on airplanes for a reason. I should not be working on sleds either.

Well i tried to adjust the oil set screw and I over-torqued the lock nut after turining the screw in three turns. Now the adjustments plate is no longer square to the rotation and when looking at it points down and to the right. Any ideas on fixing it? Since I F....ed it up i am hitting the rev limiter. Ran perfect before i adjusted the oil set screw. Now it hits the rev limiter. What the hell did i do???

A friend of mine who is a mechanic is going to remove the gas tank and air box tomorrow and try to straighten the plate. Then he will reset the scibe marks on th oil pump.

Did i lean it out by accident so it runs higher RPM's???

Help please, i need to ride this weekend.

If you don't want to go through the hassel of the gas tank and air box removal... you can take a long flathead screw driver or pry bar and wedge in under the plate to pull it back up in a "90 deg" position. Might crack the plastic spring sleeve underneith, but that won't effect anything. If it's to the "right" like you say I'm thinking toward you when looking at it from the front of the sled. Might be able to just push it back after you pry it into the vertical 90deg position. If not the nut could probably go out one more turn to compensate.