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wheelie the 153 m8?

D

Destroyer

Well-known member
I want to make my M8 wheelie. Does anyone have the M dialed in to do long verticle wheelies. I did it on my 154 doo's with just clutching and suspension set-up. But my techniques aren't working on the cat.
I know the wheelie sucks *** when riding out west, but I ride 50/50 mountains/prairies. Here at home on the prairies, I miss my huge wheelies.
 
X2 on boost.

Cats don't wheelie i've tried to get my m8 to wheelie so many times.
They're not made to wheelie because they're made to get up on the snow
 
My M7 whellies easier than any short track ive had and its the 153. suspension set up was big for me. i set both shocks as soft as i could get them and put the limiter straps in the last hole. wheiled so good i ripped the back bumper and back part of the tunnel right off. track helped a lot too. i went from the A20 to a maverick, hooked up much better.
 
I have the new camo extreme. I can't afford boost. There's this blome750 guy on you-tube who gets his to wheelie better than I've seen any cat wheelie without boost.
 
Set the front of the slide rail as stiff as possible the rear as soft as possible let the limiter strap out all the way and you will have to let off of the throttle to steer.
 
on my m1k, just before a trip west last year i did a setup change. I moved the front of the skid to the bottom holes, and flipped my challenger track that was beginning to curl. I took it out for the first ride and was riding in some fairly setup snow and was as close as i've ever been to flipping a sled over backwards on flat ground. I used to be able to stand my f7 straight up without a problem, but you are WAY up there when you stand a 153 up.

So, move front arm of skid to bottom hole(you have to drill it out) and it should help...
 
I dropped it to that lower hole before and it just made the ski's stay off the ground all of the time. It Didn't really help it loft the front end in the air at all. It also didn't turn up steep hard snow sidehills very well. It would slip out and point straight up. That's for me anyways. It may be different for someone else.
 
hmm

well Ive ran short track modded revs and my bikeman 800 firecat mod and both did awesome wheelies my new m1000 153 wasn't to great i did a slp pipe system and turned my challenger back wards were it will bite hard tighten the front skid shock and now were my buddy's m1000 just climbs like a mofo mine wont stop staring at the sky no **** you have to let off the gas to drop the front and turning out of a climb rocks being able to just twist and be facing down the mountain but it wont climb as good it does more trenching then normal
 
what year M8, my 2010 and now 2011 wheelie fine, the 07,08, not so good, 09 a little better but nothing like the HO motor in 2010,11 sleds
 
I want to make my M8 wheelie. Does anyone have the M dialed in to do long verticle wheelies. I did it on my 154 doo's with just clutching and suspension set-up. But my techniques aren't working on the cat.
I know the wheelie sucks *** when riding out west, but I ride 50/50 mountains/prairies. Here at home on the prairies, I miss my huge wheelies.

Add a wheelie bar
 
hey

I can't keep the front end of my 09 hcr on the ground, skis sky high. I'v taken alot of weight off the front end. piped, clutched perfect, and the 90 duro track helps.
 
Bump on this.

I have an '05 M7, and my two of my riding buddies both have '07 M8's, none of which wheelie.

I'm seeing conflicting info in this thread; should I soften up the front skid shock as much as possible? Or tighten it up? What setting should the rear spring be on? Do the ski shocks matter at all? Can you make them wheelie without dropping the front torque arm where it mounts to the tunnel?

Sorry....suspension NOOB. :(
 
I have the new 2.5 Camo extreme track, so traction isn't the issue. The track helped the wheelie factor lol. To make it wheelie more, I've tried dropping the front skid mount it doesn't work well. The ski's are just an extra inch off the ground and it's less controllable on a steep hard side hill. The ski's don't bite enough. I have also tried tightening the front rear skid shock, and that just makes the rebound of the skid unbalanced. Same goes for softening up the rear shock. It just rebounds really goofy. I've always ran with the limiter straps all the way loose.

So...The only thing I haven't tried, that I've seen suggested only once, is tighten the limiter straps to the middle or even top hole. The individual claimed that it would change the attack angle of the track on the snow under hard acceleration and bring the front of the sled on top of the snow instead of treching down. I'll try it this weekend and see. It makes sense in a way, but my only concern is loosing traction doing a steep sidehill or downhill turn. One thing I've noticed with the cat's vs. my doos is that if you turn the cat over just before you drop down something steep on your side...you actually loose ALOT ot traction/footprint on the snow. I've gotten stuck on flat ground just laying the sled over to drop down something in a sidehill. Like over a windlip/drift. I'll try it and report back. My Brothers 2011 m was it the midldle hole the other day, and when we swapped I liked the way his handled the sidehills better.
 
Revalve your shocks and put front skid in the lowest hole. Older Float suspensioned Cats have really tight valving which causes they don't lift skis easily while climbing. Too bad valving makes sleds quite boring what comes to wheeling.

After revalving put aggressive helix and you should be fine :)

I'm having opposite problem now - sled pulls too much wheelies. Need to pay attention to shocks. My sled is 141" so it helps catwalking... Here's a pic where I hit WOT from stop. 2 meters after start I stopped the engine and pal took a pic :D
1.jpg
 
I have burandt revalve. I Tried the 44/40 helix down low and it gave inconsistand wot rpm's and didn't wheelie.. I go west alot so leaving the straight 36 in is convenient, but if it means wheelie I would change it.
 
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