Quick Drive Belt Questions

XC500mod · Mar 28, 2015

I'm on the fence between the SKS and the Pro for MY 16. This will be my first 155'' sled. I've never ridden with anyone who has the belt drive on a PRO-RMK, so i don't have a source of info for my questions! I searched the internet and this forum for the answers to these basic questions and can't find them.

If I get this sled with 0 miles, how long until the quick drive belt is "broke in"?

what is the break in process and how long does it take, is there even a break in process?

is there a warm up or mini-break in process in the morning?

is there anything the belt can't do or shouldn't do, like WFO lake racing, grabbing a handful of brake and locking up the track on groomed trail? (i'm not a lake racer or a trail racer, i just want to know if it will hold up in extreme circumstances)

if the belt blows on the quick drive how long does it take to change? is it as easy as the clutch belt?

if i do the proper break in, how many miles or hours will the belt last?

I'll be getting this sled and only have minimal time to "break it in" prior to riding in mountains out west. I don't want to take a new sled out there and be left stranded with a blown belt.

I ride mostly in the U.P. of Michigan with some trail riding to get to the powder, so i know the SKS will work for that. Just curious about all the PRO hype and the sub 400lb weight with a after market can.

Just trying to do my research prior to dropping $13k on a new sled!

thanks

yooper 8 · Mar 28, 2015

XC500mod said:
I'm on the fence between the SKS and the Pro for MY 16. This will be my first 155'' sled. I've never ridden with anyone who has the belt drive on a PRO-RMK, so i don't have a source of info for my questions! I searched the internet and this forum for the answers to these basic questions and can't find them.

XC 500...HERE ARE MY THOUGHTS AFTER HAVING TWO 155 PROS FOR THE LAST 3 YEARS, AND OVER 4000 MILES OF HARD RIDING IN THE U.P. AN MOUNTAINS WITH PRO RMK 800 WITH QUIK DRIVE.

If I get this sled with 0 miles, how long until the quick drive belt is "broke in"?
I TAKE IT FAIRLY EASY ON THE BELT FOR ONE RIDE, OR ABOUT 50 MILES. THE BIGGEST STRESS ON IT I HAVE FOUND IS FROM LANDING BIG JUMPS VERY HARD, AND WIH THE THROTTLE PINNED, WITH THE TRACK HITTING THE GROUND VIOLENTLY, AT A DIFFERENT SPEED THAN THE SLED IS TRAVELING.
what is the break in process and how long does it take, is there even a break in process? I THINK THE GENERAL CONCENSUS IS ABOUT 100 MILES, BUT I HAVE NOT REALLY PAID ATENTION TO THIS.

is there a warm up or mini-break in process in the morning?
IF YOU WARM UP THE MOTOR TO NORMAL OPERATING TEMP, THE BELT WILL THEN BE NICE AND WARM FROM THE MUFFLER.

is there anything the belt can't do or shouldn't do, like WFO lake racing, grabbing a handful of brake and locking up the track on groomed trail? (i'm not a lake racer or a trail racer, i just want to know if it will hold up in extreme circumstances)WIDE OPEN RACING WILL NOT HURT ANYTHING. WE RUN THEM HARD ALL DAY IN THE MOUNTAINS, AND HAVE NOT SEEN A CORRELATION BETWEEN QD BELT ISSUES AND HEAT OR WOT. I HAVE NOT HAD ANY ISSUES WITH ANY KIND OF BRAKING, EXCEPT WHEN JUMPING. I HAVE BLOWN TWO BELTS, BOTH WHILE LANDING JUMPS AS STATED ABOVE.

if the belt blows on the quick drive how long does it take to change? is it as easy as the clutch belt? IT TAES ME ABOUT 20 MINUTES TO CHANGE THE BELT. THE THREAD IN GUIDES REALLY HELP, AND IT TAKES A LITTLE PRACTICE, AND SOMETIMES SOME SWEARING, BUT IT'S NOT TOO BAD. KURTS POLARIS HAS A GOOD VIDEO ON CHANGING THE GEARS THAT ALSO COVERS INSTALLING THE BELT PROPERLY.

if i do the proper break in, how many miles or hours will the belt last?
I GOT 1200 MILES ON MY FIRST ONE, 1400 MILES ON MY 2ND ONE, AND AM RUNNING ABOUT 600 MILES ON MY THIRD. MY WIFES SLED HAS ONE THAT HAS 800 MILES, AND SHOWS NO SIGN OF WEAR.

I'll be getting this sled and only have minimal time to "break it in" prior to riding in mountains out west. I don't want to take a new sled out there and be left stranded with a blown belt.
I WOULD NOT WORRY ABOUT THIS....AND ALWAYS CARRY A SPARE AND THE TOOLS AND YOU WILL NOT GET STRANDED.

I ride mostly in the U.P. of Michigan with some trail riding to get to the powder, so i know the SKS will work for that. Just curious about all the PRO hype and the sub 400lb weight with a after market can.
I LIVE AND RIDE IN THE U.P. BUT RIDE MORE DAYS IN THE MOUNTAINS THAN THE U.P. AND RIDE NO TRAILS IN THE U.P. IF I RODE THE U.P. MORE THAN THE MOUNTAINS, AND RODE OCCASIONAL TRAILS, I WOULD DEFINITELY HAVE THE SKS. PERFECT U.P. SLED, IMHO. DONT THINK THE WEIGHT WOULD MATTER AS MUCH AS THE COOLING.

Just trying to do my research prior to dropping $13k on a new sled!
HOPE THIS HELPS AND GOOD LUCK!

thanks

HAVE FUN!

turboless terry · Mar 28, 2015

Get it and just ride it
Everybody goes overboard on this belt break in thing. I ride mine like I'm going to ride it. If you want to waste a hundred miles go for it but not for me. If you listen to everyone about motor and belt break in, on a low snow year like this, you would have spent your whole season breaking stuff in.

XC500mod · Mar 28, 2015

yooper 8 thanks for the response! you sold me on the pro.

one more question:

my last 2 sleds were 144 switchback assaults with the walker evans clicker shocks. I liked being able to adjust the shock to meet the terrain, but once dialed in I didn't change it.

which shocks did you run on your past 2 Pro-RMKs?

if i plan on running some trail and the U.P. conditions which shocks would you recommend?

thanks again.

snowmobiler · Mar 28, 2015

for the same price of a good used sled,raptor shocks are pretty sweet.

XC500mod · Mar 28, 2015

just need my wife to understand the value of high end shocks and then get her to work more overtime so i can have them.

yooper 8 · Mar 28, 2015

I order it with the standard stock shocks, and replace all of them with fox shocks. Evol R fronts, and a fox zero pro front track shock, with Evol R rear track shock, from Carl's. Once you ride a pro with fox or raptor shocks, there is no going back. This is my first upgrade to any sled I own. The only other things I do are a lightweight but quiet can, and clutching.

AdrenalineAddict · Mar 28, 2015

As far as worrying about the belt and proper break-in I was kind to mine for about 35 miles and it's been W.O.T. ever since. I just turned 2,150 miles of mountain climbing on my original quick drive belt and it still fits tight and looks great. I did break my lower sprocket bolt at about 250 miles, I replaced with a 10.9 torqued to 35 ft/lbs. and haven't had a problem since. The first thing I would do with a new sled would be to remove the original lower sprocket bolt and replace, everybody I have ridden with "dozens" have broke the bolt in the first 300 miles.

yooper 8 · Mar 29, 2015

I agree with changing the bolt 100%. Mine broke at about 300 miles. That was really the only problem I've had with the QD that was not operator induced. :face-icon-small-dis

Oinakka · Mar 29, 2015

Do the 13 and 14 have the same bolt? Or did they change that?

dp2826 · Mar 29, 2015

Did they upgrade the pulley bolt for the 2016? I thought I read that they did, but can't remember where.

GoBigParts · Mar 29, 2015

Being in the up i would do the sks for the extra heat exchanger. I have a pro now and will be doing the sks. If your concerned about weight order the sks without electric start and the sks will be much closer to the pros weight.

XC500mod · Apr 2, 2015

a little off topic but i started the thread and the original question was answered.

does anyone know if the SKS comes with high or low elevation clutching?

also i would be the pro comes with high elevation clutching. if it does what changes need to be made to use it at low elevation? just weights or weights and springs.

thanks

Carls Cycle · Apr 2, 2015

The 2016's will have 2 gram heavier weights from the factory than the 2015 models. They will come with 10-64's, will run 10-62's from 6-8k, 10-60's for 8-10k. So if you need to go lower elevation, just run 10-66's for 2-4K, or 10-68's for 0-2k. No spring changes are going to be required.

CO 2.0 · Apr 2, 2015

So 10-12k would be 10-58s? That's what I ran in the pro

Polaris RMK M.M.R. · Apr 2, 2015

10-64s for 4-6k? Who the hell rides at that elevation? It's always 2-4k or 8k and higher....

Sheetmetalfab · Apr 3, 2015

The pro always came with 10-68's for 0-2k

68's work up to 4-5k

LoudHandle · Apr 3, 2015

Polaris RMK M.M.R. said:
............Who the hell rides at that elevation? .........................

Everyone in Alaska for one, zero to 8000, as a rule. In some places the full elevation change in 30-45 minutes of riding. I can do zero to 6700 in about 15 minutes from my house, in spring snow conditions.

tdbaugha · Apr 3, 2015

Polaris RMK M.M.R. said:
10-64s for 4-6k? Who the hell rides at that elevation? It's always 2-4k or 8k and higher....

NW MT 4-7k

sledheader · Apr 3, 2015

dp2826 said:
Did they upgrade the pulley bolt for the 2016? I thought I read that they did, but can't remember where.

I was told at the sneak peak that the lower sprocket bolt is bigger. I still plan on upgrading. I mean it's a bolt, it's not like it costs a fortune to do.

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