Pro Armor Tether

thierracing · Dec 28, 2014

So im getting pretty sick of the headaches im getting from my cat tether on my m8. Thinking about switching over to a proarmor.

What model tether from pro armor do you get? which one will work for the proclimbs? Part number?

How did you install it? like where did you splice the two wires into so that it is a quick and easy fix on the trail if needed.

Where did you mount the tether on your sled? I have the adjustable steering post with stock bars. ive seen guys mount it on that little bracket right above the adjustment handles.

Pics and links would be great! just want to get something that works and something I can rely on working after I drive 12 hours to ride. this cat tether has been nothing but a pain in my A$$

Thanks in advance guys!

backcountryislife · Dec 28, 2014

Put it on the bars or close, and wire it to the kill switch. I was stupid & wired to the key (which comes off with the hood) requiring a TON more wiring, if you put it on the bars, attached to kill switch (parallel, not series) it's almost zero wiring, and it's super easy to do.

Any normal open tether will work, one of the tethers says it's not for cat or something like that, they're talking about the ATV's which it seems are normal closed. As long as you're normal open, it's all good.

thekrust · Dec 28, 2014

Switch p/n is A040021. I drilled and tapped 4 holes in the back side of the handlebar mount on the adjustable riser and screwed it on with the same screws supplied with the kit to attach the 2 halves together. Spliced in to the wiring harness just above the connector behind the secondary clutch. Very simple to do. If you have a problem while riding can just remove secondary and cut 1 wire. Nothing but problems with those rubber cap POS's. The Pro-armour one is working very well. The only bad thing about pro-armour is that I just heard they got bought by Polaris. Always gonna be supporting Polaris somehow .... first Klim now Pro-armour and Kolpin

thierracing · Dec 28, 2014

backcountry where did you splice in at?

Krust was the connection you went right above the one used for the cat tethers? and did you have to extend any wires at all?

thekrust · Dec 28, 2014

I spliced it in about 4" up the harness above the connector behind the secondary clutch. In the Cat install instructions it tells you which 2 wires. I used non-insulated splices and heat shrink to make a good weatherproof connections and ran the wires along the existing harness to the switch.

F_ast · Dec 28, 2014

I spliced mine into the harness about 3" up from the coolant tank. If you open up the wire loom the wires you are looking for are the violet/red and the black/blue. It really does not matter what you use as negative or positive on the tether as it is an inline loop.

I have not done it yet, but I am going to go to napa and get a 2 prong plug so that if I as having grounding issues i can simply unplug it.

Heres a pic of the harness wires.

M8 Turbo · Dec 28, 2014

F_ast is the the wiring for the 2015 m 8000

F_ast · Dec 28, 2014

M8 Turbo said:
F_ast is the the wiring for the 2015 m 8000

Yep

thekrust · Dec 28, 2014

Basically what I did on my 13. I didn't use the 2 terminal plug in because that is just one more thing that can go wrong. If it comes unplugged for any reason and you think you have a safety switch....and you don't. You get the idea. Mine is hard wired in and if the switch gives you a problem it's easy to just cut 1 wire and be on your way.

Frosted Flakes · Dec 28, 2014

I don't know guys, I just installed the Arctic Cat tether on my 15. One getting to the harness was a significant pain the a$$! Once all put together and zipped tied, the only thing I see going wrong is the pin connection coming apart. Has this been the problem?

Also my tether came with a screw inside the cover......is that good? Maybe this might have been a big mistake?!

F_ast · Dec 28, 2014

Frosted Flakes said:
I don't know guys, I just installed the Arctic Cat tether on my 15. One getting to the harness was a significant pain the a$$! Once all the put together and zipped tied, the only thing I see going wrong is the pin connection coming apart. Has this been the problem?

Also my tether came with a screw inside the cover......is that good? Maybe this might have been a big mistake?!

My tether last year did not come with one or the ones from 12. I guess the screw is the new fix

F_ast · Dec 28, 2014

thekrust said:
Basically what I did on my 13. I didn't use the 2 terminal plug in because that is just one more thing that can go wrong. If it comes unplugged for any reason and you think you have a safety switch....and you don't. You get the idea. Mine is hard wired in and if the switch gives you a problem it's easy to just cut 1 wire and be on your way.

The tether asks as the kill switch. When spliced i to the kill switch leads there is no effect if unplugged. All the tether does when closed is ground out the circuit and kill the ignition.

If you put in a pigtailed plug and unplug it there is no way the tether can then ground out the circuit..... so no problems if you unplug it

frntflp · Dec 29, 2014

Installed mine this weekend. Mounted the switch on the inside (rider side) of the handlebar. Wires run down the steering post to the factory quick connect just inside the hood. I had an old tether installed on a Pro, so we cut off the male side quick connect, soldered that into the Pro Armour wires and plugged it in. Works great !

Last step is to replace the cheesy quick clip on the end of the tether with a small carabineer so that it's more user friendly to connect and disconnect form my jacket. (Another reason to stop by REI - bummer!! :face-icon-small-hap )

frntflp · Dec 29, 2014

Just realized this discussion was on the AC side of the house. My bad. Just the same, I hope the Cat's offer a similar "quick connect" option.

thekrust · Dec 29, 2014

F_ast said:
The tether asks as the kill switch. When spliced i to the kill switch leads there is no effect if unplugged. All the tether does when closed is ground out the circuit and kill the ignition.

If you put in a pigtailed plug and unplug it there is no way the tether can then ground out the circuit..... so no problems if you unplug it

I understand how the switch works, all I was is if the switch should malfunction (no spark) cut one wire and problem solved.

thierracing · Dec 29, 2014

ive had nothing but issues with my cat tether. the tether itself should work fine. I had a screw installed in mine aswell to. its just all the stuped pins you have to perfectly seat that is a pain in the A**! so im pretty sure I will be buying a proarmour soon! you guys ever run into problems with the plastic clip breaking?

High Country · Dec 29, 2014

installed my pro armor today, solder connection made at the handle bars wire harness into kill switch wiring and spliced in a 2 prong pigtail connection....done and done !!

thekrust · Dec 30, 2014

High Country said:
installed my pro armor today, solder connection made at the handle bars wire harness into kill switch wiring and spliced in a 2 prong pigtail connection....done and done !!

Solder connections are bad, After a while this thing called dissimilar metal corrosion creeps in and you get a corroded, non-functioning connection. Should always use a high quality crimp connector. You might get a season out of a solder connection but not likely more than that before problems

F_ast · Dec 30, 2014

thekrust said:
Solder connections are bad, After a while this thing called dissimilar metal corrosion creeps in and you get a corroded, non-functioning connection. Should always use a high quality crimp connector. You might get a season out of a solder connection but not likely more than that before problems

Unless you use rosin core solder

thekrust · Dec 30, 2014

It's the lead reacting with the copper that causes the problem. Add a little moisture and the process speeds up very quickly

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